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Bolens 1050 needs transaxle

6966 Views 18 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  HUSKY_PAL23
I have a 1050. since 1979.
I mowed everything in sight around property.
Managed to hang up on road shoulder.
result a cracked transaxle. part 171-6505 A per attachment.

All else is operational. Have 42" lawnmower, and 36" snowblower, wheel weight, Chain, very light on rust, as kept inside garage.
But, still original belts, Tires original, but still in good condition, keeps air.
Starts up easely, after a couple of slips on the belt.
Where can I get replacement part?

Tractor will pull about 700 lbs of logs on trailer on flat surface, but wont pull itself up slight incline without major slipping.
Tried the hub tighthening, in out but still slips.
Checked gear box. No stripped gears, Oil clean and full,
see attachments

Note... Question!
If I drill a hole throught the transaxle and shaft... place a spring pin.
would I drill one or two holes?... what would be dia to drill to stay on safe side. Would this work? for snowplowing? Don't want to weaken shaft more than required. suggestions?

Any assistance, most appreciated.

Attachments

1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Why not just "V" groove out the piece that is cracked , reweld it . then lathe it back to where it is supposed to be.
Why not just "V" groove out the piece that is cracked , reweld it . then lathe it back to where it is supposed to be.
Thanks Deerlope.-

Casting, and on edge of Woodroof Keyway.
Not much to groove out to finish the unit?

I'll remove over the week-end, bring it to someone I know that welds, and ask him what he can or would recommend to do.

Would that be brazing job?
I would not have it brazed, electric welding is stronger.
I would not have it brazed, electric welding is stronger.
Thanks Deerlope,
Will advise "Mechanic Welder" (My garage Guy for the last 18 years).
Frank
Common problem - bad design. I had two 105x machines, both cracked like that. I found a guy in CT that had one and he shipped it to me. I used the best parts off both machines and made one decent tractor. I use it for plowing snow and a backup grass cutter.
OK, it is welded, See attach.
and refinished smooth to re-install.
Have new 1/4 x 1/4 x 12" key to cut to measure.

Hope that it does the job. Grass is long,
Snow is forecast with outlook to a mean season. snow Blower greased and ready.

Next project: Linear Actuator 12VDC vs Hydraulic lift?
Actuator would cost about $150. or less.... but, how much stroke do I need
for snowblower lift.....

Looking to get Plow. There is plow available that I could Adapt... it weights 140# + whatever I have to use to adapt. that would also be lifted by the "Linear"

Your assistance is valued Highly... Thank You.

Attachments

OK, it is welded, See attach.
and refinished smooth to re-install.
Have new 1/4 x 1/4 x 12" key to cut to measure.

Hope that it does the job. Grass is long,
Snow is forecast with outlook to a mean season. snow Blower greased and ready.

Next project: Linear Actuator 12VDC vs Hydraulic lift?
Actuator would cost about $150. or less.... but, how much stroke do I need
for snowblower lift.....

Looking to get Plow. There is plow available that I could Adapt... it weights 140# + whatever I have to use to adapt. that would also be lifted by the "Linear"

Your assistance is valued Highly... Thank You.
Only problem with a heavy plow will be traction on the rear. You will need weight and chains for sure.
snow setup...

Add liquid ballast to the rear wheels... rv antifreeze from tractor supply works... I'm running ags that are 10.5 width on factory rims.

I have loaded tires, plus I have 50lb cast weight wheel weight on each side. I have a snowblower for it, but never hooked it up. I set the plow at the most extreme angle and start at the bottom center of the driveway. Basically its pushing it off to the side with each sweep. I can clear a steep driveway with the 1054 setup that way. Works great and is quick, I run it in Hi 3rd with the engine maxed out most of the time.

Its only for street use in that configuration...If I run it through the yard, I leave divots where the bars engage the ground:hide:

You could look at spring assist kits for the manual lift, I have one on my 1054. They are easy to copy, I have an original bracket that I copied with cardboard and made a new one with modifications that accommodate the tecumseh HH100 wider oil reserve that replaced the Wisconsin 10hp engine.

Not the greatest picture, and there is a small clearance problem with the mower deck due to the mods for the HH100. But works great with the blade (what I designed it for).

Attachments

No mower installed. nothing. only tractor, nothing hitched.

put the parts on,
proceeded to jack up the rear off the ground.
Loosened the left nut and tightened the right as best as I could by Hand.
placed the pin on locked position.

Started out from the garage and I am back where I started from.
Still Slips. Stopped …. And…. I tightened the left as far as it will go and I was able to run, climb a small grade. All without a slip?

My guess is there has to be a gear in the axle that is defective…
Before I take it down to each part separated. Any other suggestions.
Would be very discouraging to find all is ok and still have the slipping?

The first thing I will do is drain the oil, to see if any of the submerged gears are defective..
My first impression was the feeling that it slipped on the left side... of the transaxle.
Any comments from you, who have had this heart breaking experience.

Thank you, for your help.
fj5gtx / ed-nh...
I do have weights and chains.
I am shopping for a blade and grate.
so far no luck.
Its just that the plow is well built. 54"wide. thinking of cutting it down to 42" if unable to find a proper "Bolens" ...
Look and see if the square head set screws on the drive collar inside the trans on the axle have the tips sheared off. They are the ones that are safety wired on the hub assembly on the right side of the bull gear.

They have a dog point that sits into the axle and are there as a "shear point". I think if you lock the left side hub you can still drive that wheel and the right side will just slip. When you lock the left side you should have a solid axle if these points are not sheared off.

If you "jerk" the trans trying to pull something you will shear the tips off, been there done that . . .
I had to rebuild my 1054 transmission last summer. Considering the hh100 is at least the 3rd engine, I didn't feel like it owed me anything.

It would slip/catch. The problem was worn out bevel pinions (part number 1713466). I had a 1050 parts tractor with a good transmission except for the "gear and shaft" (part number 1716477). So I pulled the decent gear out of the 1054 case and put it in the 1050 case. Also found a pair of NOS bevel pinions and put them on the shelf for later, just in case.

Actually pretty easy to tear down and rebuild that trans. You'll want all new seals, I may have extras if you need them (I have a bad habit of buying extra). I replaced every seal in that trans.

The only thing I had problems with were the snap rings. Some have larger holes some have smaller holes... I had to buy another set to get it done. Once I had the right set, it was EASY. But until I realized it wasn't fitting... well lets say I was well frustrated. Oh wait a minute... I had a bad axle thread, which I had to order a die for...

I still have the parts trans, if you find something odd broken, let me know.
fj5gtx / ed-nh...
I do have weights and chains.
I am shopping for a blade and grate.
so far no luck.
Its just that the plow is well built. 54"wide. thinking of cutting it down to 42" if unable to find a proper "Bolens" ...
I don't run chains. I can push snow uphill fine with the 10.5" wide aggs I have on the back, loaded and with cast iron wheel weights. Neighbors are amazed when they see that happen with 1+ feet of heavy snow.

Actually I think 54" wide is good. I have a 42. When I angle the plow to the side, it won't quite clear the outside edge of the tire. I've actually considered swapping the plow from the HT20 setup to the tubeframe setup. I've just been too lazy to dig it out and work it over....

Pic of the tractor a while ago at the old house...

http://users.zoominternet.net/~pbaker/1054/rear.JPG
fj5gtx
is that hitch bolted to the tube"frame?
interesting way to fast clear tire area. On the cheap.

brucepts
I will have to see on friday, forecast nice weather.
I prefer using hydraulics than electric, but the spring is a cost effective way to do it. I used to do that with my little 775s, even though the attachments weighed nothing. I see the hydraulic lift kits for about $150 to up to $300 on Ebay.
fj5gtx
is that hitch bolted to the tube"frame?
interesting way to fast clear tire area. On the cheap.
The PO did that... pic is pretty old (about 7 years)... top was strap steel connected to the bottom bolt of the pipe clamp. That was pulled off and sent to the scrap yard years ago.
OK Have a 1050 running like it should.
Nothing in transmission sheared or broken.

So I jacked it up again and this time I took the wheels off.
than proceeded to tighten the hub to see what happens.
Well I guess my age and hand strength have diminished,
as I noted that the axle closed up more with no slack.

Re-installed wheels, tried in out on the flat driveway, than on hilly bush area, and all OK.
Attached the trailer and went and got loads of firewood and no problems.

Appreciate your help on this one, fellow Bolens owners.
Now to more serious snow blowing.
Still on the prowl for automatic lift.
Glad to hear you got it working.
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
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