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Michael
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Discussion Starter #1
Yesterday while I was digging some concrete out from the backyard with my Jacobsen. The engine suddenly sounded different and before I could shut it down it stopped running but the flywheel kept spinning for quite some time. This morning I confirmed my suspicions of s broken connecting rod when I pulled the engine.



It may be hard to pick out but in the last picture you can see where the bottom of the cylinder wall is broken, so I don’t think it’s a candidate for rebuilding. I’ve been looking for a donor motor and the only K321 I’ve found has no compression so I don’t think I’m willing to take a chance on that one. Regardless of where the donor motor comes from I will have to use my original oil pan as it is welded to the frame rails. So, therein lies my question. Does the 12HP Kohler and 16HP Kohler use the same block? I have found a John Deere 316 reasonable as well as a Jacobsen GT12 that aren’t too far from me. Otherwise, does anyone know what tractors may have come with the motor I’m looking for? If anyone has a lead on a good Kohler K321 close to southeast Wisconsin I would be excited to hear about it.


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Michael
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Discussion Starter #3
On the one with no compression is the piston moving? Could be a stuck valve causing the no compression issue.


I don’t know. I haven’t contacted the seller because I don’t know for sure it will fit.


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There are two diffent oil pans. The other style is not interchangeable with yours so won't work in your application. Have the seller send a picture.
 

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Michael
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Discussion Starter #5
There are two diffent oil pans. The other style is not interchangeable with yours so won't work in your application. Have the seller send a picture.


I know there are 2 different style oil pans, mine is welded to the frame rails so I can’t even remove it. The question is, will my oil pan fit on a 12HP or 16HP engine


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Michael
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Discussion Starter #6
On the one with no compression is the piston moving? Could be a stuck valve causing the no compression issue.


The seller said he thinks it’s a broken rod. I already have an engine with a broken rod


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Michael
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Discussion Starter #8
Any of the Jake built "GT" 10 thru 16 '72-'76 will have the same block but the JD316 wont.


I have a lead on a K321 from a JD 214, I’m assuming that won’t work either?


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No... an earlier JD 110/112/140 might work but anything '75 and later will have external flanges on the base of the block that the oil pan is attached to. I have a Jake built Ford with the same issue so Ive been looking for a block quite awhile myself... it has to be pre 1975 which is right about when the JD 200 series tractors began.
 

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Michael
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Discussion Starter #10
No... an earlier JD 110/112/140 might work but anything '75 and later will have external flanges on the base of the block that the oil pan is attached to. I have a Jake built Ford with the same issue so Ive been looking for a block quite awhile myself... it has to be pre 1975 which is right about when the JD 200 series tractors began.


Yeah, I was able to see a 214 block up close and I can definitely tell the difference.

If the original block wasn’t broken at the bottom of the bore (you can see it just below the end of the broken crankshaft in the picture) I would just rebuild it but unfortunately I think that ship has sailed.




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If you can find an open sided (72-76) LGT Ford with a good engine, that would fit....They seem more common than the Jakes, around here anyways. I see some wanted to make yours a Ford (blue paint).....lol
 

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Michael
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Discussion Starter #12
If you can find an open sided (72-76) LGT Ford with a good engine, that would fit....They seem more common than the Jakes, around here anyways. I see some wanted to make yours a Ford (blue paint).....lol


I know where there is a Jake GT12 but I’m having trouble connecting with the guy. I don’t really think 2 less HP would make a difference


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I know where there is a Jake GT12 but I’m having trouble connecting with the guy. I don’t really think 2 less HP would make a difference


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Shouldn't...Even the 10 hp Kohler "K" seems to have a lot of grunt. I run a tiller with mine.
 

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You could even use a 10 hp if it has the 301 block which most post '70 10hp do.. and you still wouldnt notice any differance. The 10/12 engines seem to be less likely to bust a rod than the 14/16s... possibly because the pistons are lighter. Ideally the 301 block is the best one to start with for a rebuild.
 

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Michael
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Discussion Starter #15
You could even use a 10 hp if it has the 301 block which most post '70 10hp do.. and you still wouldnt notice any differance. The 10/12 engines seem to be less likely to bust a rod than the 14/16s... possibly because the pistons are lighter. Ideally the 301 block is the best one to start with for a rebuild.


The trick is finding one. The only one I’ve found is the 12HP. Everything else is ridiculously overpriced or too far away to make it worthwhile


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They dont come up very often so you may have to extend your range limit a little, Ive had a couple hundred GTs over the last ten years but probably less than a half dozen with the right block. I have three right now, one 10hp in a running JD110, another 10hp that belongs to an LGT100 that I took apart for paint, and the other is the busted 14hp from an Lgt145.
 

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Michael
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Discussion Starter #17
They dont come up very often so you may have to extend your range limit a little, Ive had a couple hundred GTs over the last ten years but probably less than a half dozen with the right block. I have three right now, one 10hp in a running JD110, another 10hp that belongs to an LGT100 that I took apart for paint, and the other is the busted 14hp from an Lgt145.


I am picking up a Jacobsen GT12 on Thursday with a deck, blower & blade. More than I want to spend but maybe I can sell the blower and blade to offset the cost a bit.



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