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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello.

I have a ZERO TURN EZ Trak Z225. I'm a blue collar guy that's going to get my hands dirty and perform my annual maintenance on my own this year!

Can someone please give me some guidance on what blades I need?


There are a bunch of options, and I don't known the differences.

Any and all information will help.

Thank you!
 

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There are a LOT of options/opinions on blades. First you need to get ones that fit and are compatible with your deck. Yours probably comes with the 42" deck. Some blades are for mulching, others for bagging, others for side discharge. Some work okay for multiple things. Some work better with different types of grass or different lengths.

Many people swear by a particular type of blade. I haven't really noticed that much difference. I frequently buy gators. There are different versions of them, but I found only one for the 42" deck for my X300.

It also depends on how picky you are with cut quality, and how far from a "perfect" lawn you have and want.
 

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Welcome to MTF!

Blades. You are going to need to examine your current mowing habits because the blades are a main part of it.
Do you try to cut the grass in the least amount of time?
Do you really care how the mowed area appears?
Do you have the time and resources for disposal of bagged clippings?
The blades that come with most mowers are designed for side discharge. That is, that as you are cutting the grass, the discharge is sent out in a stream usually on the right side of the mower. If you are happy with that, just continue on.
Next up is bagging that discharge. Usually, high lift blades increase the force to send those clippings in the bag(s) or container(s). There are also powered assist devices to help throw the clippings into the bins. You mow until the bins are close to full, then stop and empty them before continuing on the mow. What you do with the clippings is up to you as they do have many uses, but most just get tossed in a landfill eventually.
Mulching is a wholly different animal and does require more than just the blades to work properly. Mulching blades have additional surfaces that cut the clippings into smaller pieces when allowed the time. Mulching blades can be used with either side discharge or bagging, but the results are less than the full blown mulching. Setting up the deck to take full advantage of mulching requires one to seal the deck to prevent side discharge. Baffles can be installed inside the deck so that each blade cuts it's own section. The blades then cut the clippings into much smaller pieces which are deposited in the mowed area. You have to allow the time needed for the mulching blades to cut the clippings several times or you get windrows of grass left behind. These windrows can be swept up with a sweeper, but you run into the same problem as with bagging: What to do with the clippings? With a full mulching set up, one cannot see the tiny pieces of clippings left behind. These tiny pieces decompose much faster adding nutrients to the area.
Let us know what you end up with.
 
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I have a 48" JD deck and am on my 2nd season on Gator blades. I use the Cyclone Rake to gather clippings as I cut 98% of the time. The other 2% is side discharge.
A few commnents on what I've noticed so far:
  • Cut quality is great, same or a tad better than the standard JD OEM blades so happy there
  • Fineness of clippings is a bit finer than with the OEM JD blades to that helps.
  • Side discharged clippings are thrown slightly farther than the OEM blades did
  • Cyclone Rake bin when used, takes more clippings due to the finer nature produced by the Gators.
If you check the Gator Blade site, there is a mower selection guide, be sure to follow that so if you do order, you get the right ones for your mower.

Hope this helps some....
 
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As mentioned about mulching, you have to go slower. z turns are pretty much the go fast machine. When I got my 52” walk behind it was set up to mulch, and I was leaving thick finely chopped wind rows. When told to slow down, I tried it. I had to go so slow to get a perfect cut, I could only do 2-3 yards in a day I had to do six. And forget about the day I had 11. I don’t think mulching is for commercial type fast mowing.
 

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What makes you think you need new blades for annual maintenance? Blades can last a long, long time if not abused and if you don't get carried away sharpening them. The blades on my old Deere 345's 54" deck lasted the 20 years I owned it, mowing 1/2 acre often several times a week.

Rob
 
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What makes you think you need new blades for annual maintenance? Blades can last a long, long time if not abused and if you don't get carried away sharpening them. The blades on my old Deere 345's 54" deck lasted the 20 years I owned it, mowing 1/2 acre often several times a week.

Rob
Chuckling! My blades last an average of two years before they are almost worn to a nub. My soil has a very high content of sand and it literally sandblasts everything inside the deck. The paint on new blades doesn't even last one mow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I knew my blades were toast because this is year 3 or so that I've owned the mower and I've never changed them. I also analyzed them and they were beat to crap.

I took someone's advice on this post and got I believe the "Gator Hybrid" blades of some sort. My mower has two blades. Thanks for the advice. They look like nice blades!

We changed them tonight and I was really hoping with the new blades that my cut would be more precise and level, however IT IS NOT... :/

To me it is almost as if the left side "trimmer blade thingy" is cutting that side slightly longer than the right side/main blade. I wonder if something is out of alignment from me running into things over the years (bumping crap with the yellow "trimmer thingy" on the left side of mower).

-I like to mow medium speed. When I have it full go, the thing hauls a$$, but I also feel like unless I go EXTREMELY SLOW, I don't get a great cut. I have to go over everything twice in order to get that clean, crisp, and even carpet look. Do you think maybe I shouldn't have gotten a mulch hybrid blade? Any thoughts or advice? I do not bag and do not ever plan on bagging. I am adamant about mowing much more often than I have in the past, and my neighbor (he's a Hustler guy) said I need to mow my yard on the highest or second highest setting in order to keep a healthy yard and get a cleaner cut.


Thanks for the tips!
 

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Not sure what you mean by yellow trimmer thingy. Do you have a picture? There is an aftermarket device which is a string trimmer that attaches to the deck.

There is a procedure for leveling the deck in the operator's manual. Get the $7 measuring device that makes it easier. Level your deck as it does make a difference.
 

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A number of concerns from your last post, adw10291:
Your deck may be warped from hitting "things" over the years and leveling the deck won't help much until you straighten out the deck. Many Tube videos on straightening out a deck.

How often do you sharpen the blades? That helps immensely with that "clean crisp even carpet look" Keeping the blades sharp means that you are actually cutting the grass as a knife would with a crisp flat cut and not a ragged uneven cut. Examine several blades of grass after you have it it. New blades are not generally sharp due to liability concerns, some are most aren't. They should be sharpened before use.

The type of grass determines the length the grass should be cut at and where in the country you are. Northern grasses can be cut higher and southern grasses lower.

No idea what you mean by a "Gator hybrid" unless you show a picture or specific brand name, same with the "trimmer blade thingy" on the left side.
 
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