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Discussion Starter #1
I'm trying to do some modifications to my lawn tractor to raise the height up a little bit, due to low ground clearance with the snow plow on. It currently has pretty small wheels and tires. 15x6-6 in the front and 20x9-8 on the rear. The fronts have roller bearings and are held on with e clips like most. The rears are bolted on to hubs with 4 lug nuts.

I'm wondering if the larger wheels and tires from a Cub Cadet SLTX1054 would fit? I know they will clear, I'm just not sure if they will physically bolt up. The SLTX1054 uses 16x6.5s in the front and 22x9.5s in the rear. It would theoretically add an inch of height in the rear and about a 1/2" inch in the front. It might not sound like a lot but I'll take anything I can get.

Anyone know or have thoughts?
 

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Need to be a bit more precise in what you are speaking of. When you say "wheels" are you speaking of the rims, the tyres or the entire assembly?

Tyres for L & G tractors are sized as follows:
The first number is the height of the tyre in inches.
The second number is the width of the tread of the tyre.
The third number is the diameter of the rim in inches.

Now, if you want the use your original rims, that rim diameter is very important! The other numbers can vary quite a bit as long as you have clearance under your rear fenders and enough space for the front tyres not to hit anything like the frame or other when turning.
You also do not have to have only turf style tyres as there are many other options in tread types. Usually, you fit the tyre to the conditions. ATV tyres will fit many L & G rims.
If you were speaking of a mower deck instead of a blade, the rear tyre height would be more critical so you don't hit the deck, but you generally can move up an inch or two in height without problems, though you may have to level the mowing deck. Since you are speaking of a blade, your main consideration is what will fit under the rear fenders.

Rims are a different matter as the bolt holes have to line up along with the center hole, if there.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Need to be a bit more precise in what you are speaking of. When you say "wheels" are you speaking of the rims, the tyres or the entire assembly?

Tyres for L & G tractors are sized as follows:
The first number is the height of the tyre in inches.
The second number is the width of the tread of the tyre.
The third number is the diameter of the rim in inches.

Now, if you want the use your original rims, that rim diameter is very important! The other numbers can vary quite a bit as long as you have clearance under your rear fenders and enough space for the front tyres not to hit anything like the frame or other when turning.
You also do not have to have only turf style tyres as there are many other options in tread types. Usually, you fit the tyre to the conditions. ATV tyres will fit many L & G rims.
If you were speaking of a mower deck instead of a blade, the rear tyre height would be more critical so you don't hit the deck, but you generally can move up an inch or two in height without problems, though you may have to level the mowing deck. Since you are speaking of a blade, your main consideration is what will fit under the rear fenders.

Rims are a different matter as the bolt holes have to line up along with the center hole, if there.
I'm talking the whole rim and tire. Which is why I'm wondering if the SLTX1054 has the same rear bolt pattern and front spindle diameter as my 2003 1525.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I mow with this tractor in the summer and I have turf tires on it, however the rears need replaced soon. I push snow with it in the winter using chains on the rear. The reason for wanting to raise the ride height is that the snow plow blade and the plow bracket are very low to the ground, only a couple inches and they scrape on everything. This is a manually operated plow, not electric or hydraulic so the blade doesn't have very much range of movement.
 

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Doug; I have front wheels off a 2006 SLT-1554 (tire 15x6.0x6 rim 934-04104A) and front wheels off a 2002 2518 (tire 16x6.5x8 rim 634-3016-0499). The bearing inside diameter is.750 on both but the 16 inch wheels off the 2518 require a spindle that is 1.5 inches longer than the SLT wheels. In other words my 2518 wheels are 1.5 inches wider where they fit on the spindle. So I would need different spindles to swap my 2518 rims on to my SLT-1554. I hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Doug; I have front wheels off a 2006 SLT-1554 (tire 15x6.0x6 rim 934-04104A) and front wheels off a 2002 2518 (tire 16x6.5x8 rim 634-3016-0499). The bearing inside diameter is.750 on both but the 16 inch wheels off the 2518 require a spindle that is 1.5 inches longer than the SLT wheels. In other words my 2518 wheels are 1.5 inches wider where they fit on the spindle. So I would need different spindles to swap my 2518 rims on to my SLT-1554. I hope this helps.
Thank you! Exactly the answer I needed! So now I know the fronts will not work.
 

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I looked at all the tires on Chapmoto looking for some taller tires to fit on 6" rims but all were the same as you have. Gonna have to find a way to mount 8" front rims to step up in height.
 
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Discussion Starter #8
I looked at all the tires on Chapmoto looking for some taller tires to fit on 6" rims but all were the same as you have. Gonna have to find a way to mount 8" front rims to step up in height.
Yeah that's the way it's looking. I wonder if the spindles would swap?

I really like having a plow on this tractor, it beats the **** out of a walk behind snowblower, and don't even say the word "shovel" near me. But the plow that is made for this tractor just sits way too low to the ground in the "up" position. I was looking at the bracket and I can see a way to raise the height of the blade in the up position, but not the bracket which is the other half of the issue.

I was even trying to think of other ways to raise the height. The rear would probably be fairly easy with some blocks between the transaxle and the frame. I think the linkages for the pedals have enough play in them to not require modification. The pulley alignment would obviously be different but I could probably work around that. That still would leave the front though. Does anyone make lift spindles for a 17 year old lawn tractor? Lmao :ROFLMAO:

Anyways I may just have to suck it up and live with it because I don't want to be re-engineering the whole thing.

Hopefully the transaxle croaks and then I can upgrade to a bigger machine. Something with hydraulics and a removable cab.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Here's some pictures to better illustrate the problem. This is the "up" position.

I took a tape measure and measured the ground clearance. The blade is about 2" off the ground and the mount bracket is about 1.5" off the ground at it's lowest point. I don't need a ton of clearance but I'd like it a little higher so I don't keep scraping on the entrances to the sidewalks, the driveway and the garage.

IMG_20191206_092853298-2137x1603.jpg
IMG_20191206_092812858-2137x1603.jpg
IMG_20191206_092733983-2137x1603.jpg
 

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Doug; the rims from my 1554 are 2.25 inches through the middle (the hub) where as the rims from my 2518 are 4 inches through the middle (the hub) and both are .750 bearing ID. I bought this set that I will (hopefully) link below so I could run some little 4.00x4.80 3-rib tires on the front of the 2518. The 2518 is just my toy and that’s what I wanted for the front of it to go along with the AG tires on the rear. I had to shim these rims to get a good fit on my spindles which worked out well. Unfortunately at 3.0 inch hub they are still a little to wide to fit my 1554. However, if you search around some you may be able to find a set like you want that will fit your mower. Just a thought.



https://www.millertire.com/products/lawn-garden-tires/4-00-8/8x3-75-steel-wheel-3-hub-3-4-bearing/
 

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You may be able to swap on some 8" rims that take 4:00x8" wheel barrow type tires or utility trailer tires,you will need to ensure the hubs are narrow enough to fit your front spindles so whatever holds the rims in place (snap ring ,etc),will still be useable..
There may be taller 6" wheel barrow tires available too,that might fit your original rims..

I put 8" rims on the front of my Yard-Man tractor that way,and the rims I used had narrow hubs that left a good inch of the axle sticking out,I used washers behind the rim to space them out further,so the bigger tires wouldn't rub against the chassis on sharp turns,and I used 3/4" shaft collars instead of the E-clips to keep the rims in place..You may lose some turning radius with bigger tires,as they may not be able to turn as sharply without hitting the chassis..

I switched to those 8" 4:00x8 tires & rims because I wanted more ground clearance ,plus the factory 6" rims with wide turf tires and wheel weights (to offset the weight of a bagger and prevent wheelies) put too much strain on the wimpy steering gear setup and it had to be rebuilt twice,the skinny tires were much easier as far as steering effort or resistance..I left the front wheel weights off too,which alone helped it steer easier..
Then I had to modify my plow lift ,so the blade would drop low enough to reach the ground!..

I thought about swapping a whole different front axle into the tractor,as its original was a stamped sheet metal hunk of crap that was way too wimpy and had been welded back together--the axle beam pivots on one big center bolt,I could have made a "extension" bracket for the pivot hole to drop the beam lower,then I'd probably have to modify the drag link so it wouldn't contact the chassis..
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well instead of lift via the wheels I decided to mess with the blade itself. This is just an idea and a result of me screwing around in the garage for a few hours but it may work or lead to a better idea.

Basically I took a piece of 3" wide 5/16" thick steel plate I had laying around and cut it in half to 1.5" pieces about 12" long. I drilled 3 holes in both of them to allow me to use existing holes in the plow pieces and lift the plow up.

Now the one section of the bracket is still lower than I'd like it, but they could probably be cut off flush with the pieces I made. You can see in the photo with the tape measure that if I cut the brackets flush with the new pieces, it would be about 4.25" off the ground. The bottom of the plow blade is snow sitting around 5.5" off the ground. So I got about 3" of lift with this.

I'm not sure if I'm 100% in love with the design, but I do think it would work. I have a welder and I know how to use it, but I didn't want to go and make anything permanent just yet.

Here are some pictures.

IMG_20191206_122650518-2137x1603.jpg
IMG_20191206_131856890-2137x1603.jpg
IMG_20191206_122704697-2137x1603.jpg
IMG_20191206_132012551-2137x1603.jpg
 

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Like your ingenuity! A question does come about and that is what is the lowest possible position of the blade? You may have to elevate the tractor to determine this, but you may be able to add more 'shims' and get more height while still in contact with the ground.
 

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Nice work! I was thinking about that as well. Not too much going on with the mounts.
 
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Discussion Starter #15
Like your ingenuity! A question does come about and that is what is the lowest possible position of the blade? You may have to elevate the tractor to determine this, but you may be able to add more 'shims' and get more height while still in contact with the ground.
Nice work! I was thinking about that as well. Not too much going on with the mounts.
Thanks guys. The mount is pretty simple so after looking at it I figured it would be the simplest way to go about lifting the plow up.

Flakken, the plow still isn't completely bottomed out when it's in the down position. I made sure of that before I made the brackets because I still want the blade to be able to float up and down a little with the dips in the pavement.

I also have another idea that involves cutting the mounts and welding them back together a little differently. I'll see if I can edit the picture so I can explain how it would work.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
So here is my other idea. I would cut on the red line, then cut out the green piece and weld it into place where the blue outline is. Then if necessary, drill any holes so they line up.

youdoodle-2019-12-06T14-13-11Z-645x464.jpg
 

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WronggDoug, I didn't mean to always have the blade at it's lowest setting, I meant that you may be able insert another shim giving you greater range of motion.

Your last idea would give more support to the upper portion of the mount.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
WronggDoug, I didn't mean to always have the blade at it's lowest setting, I meant that you may be able insert another shim giving you greater range of motion.

Your last idea would give more support to the upper portion of the mount.
Ohhh, okay, I see what you mean. That likely is a possibility. I think I like the second idea better due to the upper part having more support as you pointed out. Just say a prayer that I cut and weld it back together correctly.

It's worth noting that I don't think I could raise the plow this way if I had a later style one piece hood. If I did, I suspect the plow brackets would interfere with the hood opening. I can't verify this, but I'm just mentioning it. If I happen to run across a later style hood, I will try to swap it and see if it works.

I did pick up some tune up parts today although I'm beginning to think USPS may have lost the stuff I ordered online. Tracking says it's out for delivery and the mail already came, but no parts. I usually run full synthetic but I have this brand new jug of Rotella 10w30 syn blend just sitting here so I'll make use of it.

IMG_20191206_150916530-2137x1603.jpg


Also while I'm re-engineering the plow, maybe I can do something about this-

IMG_20191206_151054727-2137x1603.jpg


I hate that you have to get off the machine to change the angle. What kind of cheap *** design is that?! This guy kind of has the right idea but I'm thinking a bicycle brake cable would work better.


The return spring would have to be swapped with a lower tension spring. And I would still need a handle to physically move the blade but I think one could probably be made out of a piece of metal conduit and attached to the blade with maybe a heim joint or something.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Well, my parts did end up coming in the mail today. A second mail truck came and brought them.

IMG_20191206_161026304-2137x1603.jpg


And because I just can't sit still, I decided to go along with plan B. Lots of cutting and grinding and metallic mess. I have one down and one to go. Hopefully this works.

Here's what I came up with.

IMG_20191206_173150070-2137x1603.jpg
IMG_20191206_173159015-2137x1603.jpg
IMG_20191206_175021745-2137x1603.jpg
IMG_20191206_181433232-2137x1603.jpg

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And yeah I should've "V'd" out the weld area but I think my welds have enough penetration that it shouldn't matter. Let me know what you think and thanks for following along.
 

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That looks good, Joe in PA, just what you were thinking of.
 
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