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Discussion Starter #1
okay so i was just wondering if anyone has had similer issues. my grandpa bought his second craftsmen 4 yrs ago it is a ys 4500. the tranny went the first year got it replaced. went the second and third year as well.the tranny is now screwed again and even after sears said it had a one year warrenty this time they pretty much told him where to put that transmission. he is not happy and i was just wondering what you guys would do or if any other people have had tranny issues with these tractors
thanks
nathan
 

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What is he doing to chew through so many transmissions? Hydro or Stick?

Is he mowing a lot of hilly terrain? If so, he may have bought the wrong machine.. Sorry to hear about the issues with Sears CS, though that does not shock me.
 

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okay so i was just wondering if anyone has had similer issues. my grandpa bought his second craftsmen 4 yrs ago it is a ys 4500. the tranny went the first year got it replaced. went the second and third year as well.the tranny is now screwed again and even after sears said it had a one year warrenty this time they pretty much told him where to put that transmission. he is not happy and i was just wondering what you guys would do or if any other people have had tranny issues with these tractors
thanks
nathan
He is NOT using any ground engagement equipment is he?

Because that would kill these transmissions...:rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
it is a hydro no ground engaging equipment and only one hill and it is cut horizontally he does blow snow in the winter but it is only 38" cut and only runs rear weights 200lbs no wheel weights i dont think it is over worked but i may be wrong
thanks
nathan
 

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it is a hydro no ground engaging equipment and only one hill and it is cut horizontally he does blow snow in the winter but it is only 38" cut and only runs rear weights 200lbs no wheel weights i dont think it is over worked but i may be wrong
thanks
nathan
No you're not...I agree with you...that does NOT seem like a transmission killing set of activities...:(

The Wheel Weight might be high...what limit does the manual give?
 

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...only runs rear weights 200lbs no wheel weights i dont think it is over worked but i may be wrong
thanks
nathan
200 lbs. + Grandpa + the weight of the rear half of the tractor may be over the axle load specs for the transaxle.

If you decide to fix it, I would switch it over to wheel weights and loaded tires and lose the 200# weights.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
we used too run rear weights plus grandpa plus wheel weights on the first tranny and the technician told him to lose the wheel weights. and know that i think of it it is only 150lbs of weights. he has decided to take them to court so well see what happes maybe they'll fold before it gets that far.
thanks again
nathan
ps grandpa is only maybe 150lbs soaking wet lol
 

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we used too run rear weights plus grandpa plus wheel weights on the first tranny and the technician told him to lose the wheel weights. and know that i think of it it is only 150lbs of weights. he has decided to take them to court so well see what happes maybe they'll fold before it gets that far.
thanks again
nathan
ps grandpa is only maybe 150lbs soaking wet lol
If he was told to lose the wheel weights and they DOCUMENTED IT in his file...and he continued to use wheel weights...AND THEY KNOW HE DID<<<---this is the important point...he will lose in court...IF THEY DON'T KNOW...then he might be okay...
 

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Kinda surprising that the tech wanted the wheel weights gone but not the rear weight... Seems bass ackwards to me.
 

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it is a hydro no ground engaging equipment and only one hill and it is cut horizontally he does blow snow in the winter but it is only 38" cut and only runs rear weights 200lbs no wheel weights i dont think it is over worked but i may be wrong
thanks
nathan
I just glanced through a Craftsman Lawn Tractor Manual for a 917.28738...and it says NOT to mow across hills of 15 degrees...but to mow them up and down...and further states that said Lawn Tractor is NOT to mow any slope > than 15 degrees...:rolleyes:

They even provide a hokey visual guide to check the slope...:D
 

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Discussion Starter #12
he did sell the wheel weights after the tech told him too. and would mowing horizontal not be easier on stuff??? maybe im wrong i just figured it would be?
 

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Liability is the reason they advise against side mowing a hill, not wear on the hydro. A tractor has a propensity to roll over on a side slope.

Wheel weights are not as hard on the axle bearings as a static weight behind the tractor. They do however create more rotational inertia (Newton's 3rd law) when suddenly changing direction of travel. Loaded tires are not coupled to the axle and don't present rotational inertia.

With the additional weight on the back, the weight of the snow thrower, tractor, and driver, combined with varying traction, an abusive driving style could shorten the life of the hydro. Add to that the cold temps we get in Canada, if not babied along and allowed to properly warm up, snow throwing can and will shorten the life of the hydro.
 

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How many hours has he logged on this tractor? I had an '06 YS4500 with a B/S 24HP and the K46Hydro. It was a nice machine but I could feel and hear the tranny screaming "Uncle" after a couple of years - about 80 hours total. I have some hills and regularly pulled a loaded cart and ended up going to a GT before I cooked the tranny. Like others have said, maybe it's time for a GT? :goodl:
 

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I have a YT with a Hydro-Gear 0510 that I know wouldn't stand up to any hard work. I know that if I drove it like I stole it that it would have failed me already so I baby it along with gradual movements on the direction control. I also don't use it in Winter.

I'm not saying that in Nathan grandpa's case it is all "pilot error" but it is probably a factor. These YTs are not indestructible by any stretch of the imagination.
 

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When I was trying to teach my wife how to operate my YT, it was painful to see and hear. She drove it like a standard. Step on the clutch, select the gear, and pop the clutch at full throttle. Step on the clutch to stop, slap it in reverse, and pop the clutch again.
 

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Wheel weights are not as hard on the axle bearings as a static weight behind the tractor. They do however create more rotational inertia (Newton's 3rd law) when suddenly changing direction of travel. Loaded tires are not coupled to the axle and don't present rotational inertia.
Here's an idea: spinner wheel weights. All the weight, none of the rotational inertia. Should be easy enough to do using one of those home-made post-and-barbell-weight type arrangements. Just fit bearings into the center of the barbell weights. Or even go with no bearings but give the post a good greasing?

Might be able to get the same effect with fluid-filled wheel weights, although you'd probably sacrifice some density (i.e. you'd get less weight or larger volume than metal weights).


Add to that the cold temps we get in Canada, if not babied along and allowed to properly warm up, snow throwing can and will shorten the life of the hydro.
I use my dual-hydro i1050 in the winter for plowing and snowblowing so I'm interested in this advice, but not sure how to follow through on it. How does one properly heat up hydros? Don't you have to work them to warm them up, and therefore there's no way to warm them up *before* working them? Should I be just kind of driving around for a while before working any snow? Might be hard finding a clear place to drive before the snow is removed...
 

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Here's an idea: spinner wheel weights. All the weight, none of the rotational inertia. Should be easy enough to do using one of those home-made post-and-barbell-weight type arrangements. Just fit bearings into the center of the barbell weights. Or even go with no bearings but give the post a good greasing?

Might be able to get the same effect with fluid-filled wheel weights, although you'd probably sacrifice some density (i.e. you'd get less weight or larger volume than metal weights).




I use my dual-hydro i1050 in the winter for plowing and snowblowing so I'm interested in this advice, but not sure how to follow through on it. How does one properly heat up hydros? Don't you have to work them to warm them up, and therefore there's no way to warm them up *before* working them? Should I be just kind of driving around for a while before working any snow? Might be hard finding a clear place to drive before the snow is removed...
Think 'torque converter', like automatic transmission in a car. No mechanical connection between the engine and the differential. Just fluid dynamics. But weights and loading are still better than a weight behind and carried by an understrength axle.

Good point on the warming up of hydros. I have no idea how one can 'baby' a hydro while blowing snow. If the snow gods dump 12" of 'partly cloudy' in my driveway, my tractor is going to work.

What accessories does Sears say can be used on these tractors, as in how much weight do they (indirectly) think the tractor can handle, pulling and carrying. If they sell a snowblower for it , it must be able to handle it effectively. If it can't move the blower through the snow without extra weight, it isn't effective. Why do they sell wheel weights if you're not supposed to use them? If they sell a trailer to tow behind, the tractor should be able to deal with an asymetrical load in the trailer, as in extra tongue weight. Can the tractor carry an operator who is overweight, eg. 350 lb.? (Your grandad plus a 150 lb. counterweight is lighter.)

Just thoughts for the upcoming court case.

Bob
 

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Good point on the warming up of hydros. I have no idea how one can 'baby' a hydro while blowing snow. If the snow gods dump 12" of 'partly cloudy' in my driveway, my tractor is going to work
Bob
I believe the proper procedure before winter use is to warm up the hydro by disengaging the brake while warming up the engine. The hydro fluid begins circulating. I sit like this for about a full minute.

For heavy snow you just have to go slow, and once you have one "stripe" cleared take less of a bite on subsequent trips up and down the driveway. There are different levels of capability and just because they make an implement for a particular tractor doesn't mean it will hold up under long term use under extreme conditions at the limit of it's capability. Common sense plays a factor too. Anybody who plows into the snowbank at the end of the driveway at flank speed with a little K46 transmission is asking for trouble.
 
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