OK, well I realy dont know a lot about those brands, but I do have some advice. Sounds like you will need a big saw. I would look at a 20" bar. BUT... I would also recomend getting a small, saw with a 12-14" bar also. Those big saws are nice, but BOY do they get to be a pain in the butt wile your swinging it around limming!!!
big chainsaw purchase for me - looking for opinions please
OK ... I've put off buying a chainsaw for too long now, and I need to buy one within the next few days so I can clear out some wood before it starts getting cold outside
I have 6 acres, about 2.5 of which are non-thick grove trees (some 100+ years old and close to 36" diameter ... I'm not felling any of the big ones, but I do need to take a few branches off of some of them, and I also need to remove several entire trees that are maybe 12"to 18" thick
my first thought was, of course, Stihl, because I believe that buying cheap throw-away equipment is actually more expensive than buying the more expensive, well made commercial quality gear to begin with ... the most expensive equipment you can buy is the one that you have to replace because it broke ...
I recently bought my first string trimmer, and I also planned on buying a Stihl until I went into my Snapper dealer to pick up my new zero-turn mower and was browsing through his store while I was there (I had planned on picking up the mower and then going straight to the Stihl dealer) ... he only sells Tanaka trimmers and chainsaws, so I got to asking him why, since he obviously has his choice of what brands he sells, and he told me that in 8-9 years of selling Tanaka, he's only had TWO warranty claims, both of which were minor and that he'd found out through careful observation and testing that Tanaka makes a better
(or at least as good) of a trimmer that Stihl does, plus their warranty is better
he gave me an amazing deal IMO on a super nice, brand new Tanaka commercial trimmer since this was the second Snapper ZTM I bought from him this year and I have to admit, I'm blown away with the way it starts, runs and chews through grass, weeds and brush ... it exceeded my expectations in every possible way, which is very rare, especially for me
a pruning saw that attaches to my Tanaka trimmer is already on the list of things to buy for the higher up branches, but there's no way it will take care of most of my sawing needs, so I need a big-boy saw as well
anyways, now that I'm going to buy a saw, I'm wondering if I should buy a Tanaka chainsaw instead of a Stihl ... I'm really hoping that someone here has either used one, or actually owns one and can give me some insight about them
as far as my needs, I was thinking about going with the Stihl MS290 Farm Boss or even the MS310 or MS390 since they weigh the same as the Farm Boss but with more power ... price is a factor though, and since they sell a TON of Farm Boss models, they seem to be the best all around deal
one big question I have for people here in-the-know is ... what size bar should I be looking at getting? ... I'm thinking I need at least a 16" bar or maybe even an 20" but I want to do it right the first time with this as this is a major purchase for me right now and money's kind of tight at the moment
even though I'm on a tight budget, I still won't consider going to HD or Sears because. as I said above, it will end up costing me more in the long run if I buy a cheap consumer saw ... and I want it to have plenty of resale value if I decide I need a bigger or different saw in the future
the Tanaka saws are about 10% less money than the Stihl's are, and if the trimmers are any indication of the performance of the entire product line, I'm sure they will perform above my expectations (as I'm sure the Stihl will too) ... I don't know about the resale value of a Tanaka, but I'm sure it's much better than average, though possibly not as good as Stihl due to their overwhelming global reputation
one strong point about the Tanaka gear is that it all has a THREE year warranty compared to Stihl's TWO year warranty ... and I know that even if I go over three years, the dealer I work with will make it happen, he said it wouldn't be any problem at all even if it goes a year over, I guess Tanaka is like that ... one down side to buying a Stihl is that the dealers around me are all Napa auto parts stores and when I called to ask specific questions about which saw is right for me and what the features were, all 3 of the local Stihl dealers said that they didn't know and that they would have to look at the 'book' - every person I talked to at all 3 Napa's who sell Stihl expected me to know which saw I need and which features it has and is pretty much just there to ring it through the cash register - I can already see that I will receive ZERO service support from any of them beyond sending it in to Stihl if I ever have a problem - the Snapper/Simplicity/Tanaka dealer is an old school type dealer that knows every spec of every piece of equipment he's sold in the last 10 years by heart and does repairs in house
I'm not really sure if I can expect to have any problems with the saw that I end up buying because I'm not really going to be abusing it, or even using it to their full potential ... it will see a week or so of maybe 4-6 hours use per day and then just be used as needed ... and I only have so many trees, so I'm guessing any saw that I buy will have a pretty easy life compared to most of them, and I'm anal about keeping my equipment clean and maintained
at this point I'm leaning towards the Stihl, but I'd really appreciate opinions (good or bad please) on this matter ... and if there's another Stihl model altogether that you think would better suit my needs (MS270 Wood Boss, or maybe an 'occasional use' saw would actually be just fine for me like the MS211 or the MS250... or maybe I need to go the other way and look at a smaller pro saw like the MS361 ... I know I'm all over the place as far as features and 'build quality' but I want the right tool for the job
Tanaka makes far fewer models, so I'm limited to the ECV-4501, the ECV-5601 or the lighter duty TCS-3301PFS (top handle version) or the TCS-3351PFS (the rear handle version)
another important decision I need to make, which I'm completely unprepared for because I don't yet know the advantages and disadvantages of each design ... rear handle or top handle?
the Stihl saws seem to have them beat in almost every way, but I want to be sure before I plop down my card ... the Farm Boss with a 20" bar seems to be the obvious choice due to power, cost and quality, but the more informed opinions I have before I buy it, the better off I'll be
so ... Tanaka or Stihl? ... top or rear handle, and if Stihl, which model would you guys suggest with which size bar?
thanks very much in advance, I really appreciate all of the help I've gotten here so far
Chris
I have 6 acres, about 2.5 of which are non-thick grove trees (some 100+ years old and close to 36" diameter ... I'm not felling any of the big ones, but I do need to take a few branches off of some of them, and I also need to remove several entire trees that are maybe 12"to 18" thick
my first thought was, of course, Stihl, because I believe that buying cheap throw-away equipment is actually more expensive than buying the more expensive, well made commercial quality gear to begin with ... the most expensive equipment you can buy is the one that you have to replace because it broke ...
I recently bought my first string trimmer, and I also planned on buying a Stihl until I went into my Snapper dealer to pick up my new zero-turn mower and was browsing through his store while I was there (I had planned on picking up the mower and then going straight to the Stihl dealer) ... he only sells Tanaka trimmers and chainsaws, so I got to asking him why, since he obviously has his choice of what brands he sells, and he told me that in 8-9 years of selling Tanaka, he's only had TWO warranty claims, both of which were minor and that he'd found out through careful observation and testing that Tanaka makes a better
(or at least as good) of a trimmer that Stihl does, plus their warranty is better
he gave me an amazing deal IMO on a super nice, brand new Tanaka commercial trimmer since this was the second Snapper ZTM I bought from him this year and I have to admit, I'm blown away with the way it starts, runs and chews through grass, weeds and brush ... it exceeded my expectations in every possible way, which is very rare, especially for me
a pruning saw that attaches to my Tanaka trimmer is already on the list of things to buy for the higher up branches, but there's no way it will take care of most of my sawing needs, so I need a big-boy saw as well
anyways, now that I'm going to buy a saw, I'm wondering if I should buy a Tanaka chainsaw instead of a Stihl ... I'm really hoping that someone here has either used one, or actually owns one and can give me some insight about them
as far as my needs, I was thinking about going with the Stihl MS290 Farm Boss or even the MS310 or MS390 since they weigh the same as the Farm Boss but with more power ... price is a factor though, and since they sell a TON of Farm Boss models, they seem to be the best all around deal
one big question I have for people here in-the-know is ... what size bar should I be looking at getting? ... I'm thinking I need at least a 16" bar or maybe even an 20" but I want to do it right the first time with this as this is a major purchase for me right now and money's kind of tight at the moment
even though I'm on a tight budget, I still won't consider going to HD or Sears because. as I said above, it will end up costing me more in the long run if I buy a cheap consumer saw ... and I want it to have plenty of resale value if I decide I need a bigger or different saw in the future
the Tanaka saws are about 10% less money than the Stihl's are, and if the trimmers are any indication of the performance of the entire product line, I'm sure they will perform above my expectations (as I'm sure the Stihl will too) ... I don't know about the resale value of a Tanaka, but I'm sure it's much better than average, though possibly not as good as Stihl due to their overwhelming global reputation
one strong point about the Tanaka gear is that it all has a THREE year warranty compared to Stihl's TWO year warranty ... and I know that even if I go over three years, the dealer I work with will make it happen, he said it wouldn't be any problem at all even if it goes a year over, I guess Tanaka is like that ... one down side to buying a Stihl is that the dealers around me are all Napa auto parts stores and when I called to ask specific questions about which saw is right for me and what the features were, all 3 of the local Stihl dealers said that they didn't know and that they would have to look at the 'book' - every person I talked to at all 3 Napa's who sell Stihl expected me to know which saw I need and which features it has and is pretty much just there to ring it through the cash register - I can already see that I will receive ZERO service support from any of them beyond sending it in to Stihl if I ever have a problem - the Snapper/Simplicity/Tanaka dealer is an old school type dealer that knows every spec of every piece of equipment he's sold in the last 10 years by heart and does repairs in house
I'm not really sure if I can expect to have any problems with the saw that I end up buying because I'm not really going to be abusing it, or even using it to their full potential ... it will see a week or so of maybe 4-6 hours use per day and then just be used as needed ... and I only have so many trees, so I'm guessing any saw that I buy will have a pretty easy life compared to most of them, and I'm anal about keeping my equipment clean and maintained
at this point I'm leaning towards the Stihl, but I'd really appreciate opinions (good or bad please) on this matter ... and if there's another Stihl model altogether that you think would better suit my needs (MS270 Wood Boss, or maybe an 'occasional use' saw would actually be just fine for me like the MS211 or the MS250... or maybe I need to go the other way and look at a smaller pro saw like the MS361 ... I know I'm all over the place as far as features and 'build quality' but I want the right tool for the job
Tanaka makes far fewer models, so I'm limited to the ECV-4501, the ECV-5601 or the lighter duty TCS-3301PFS (top handle version) or the TCS-3351PFS (the rear handle version)
another important decision I need to make, which I'm completely unprepared for because I don't yet know the advantages and disadvantages of each design ... rear handle or top handle?
the Stihl saws seem to have them beat in almost every way, but I want to be sure before I plop down my card ... the Farm Boss with a 20" bar seems to be the obvious choice due to power, cost and quality, but the more informed opinions I have before I buy it, the better off I'll be
so ... Tanaka or Stihl? ... top or rear handle, and if Stihl, which model would you guys suggest with which size bar?
thanks very much in advance, I really appreciate all of the help I've gotten here so far
Chris
1 - 20 of 32 Posts
You got to remember any dealer will allways tell you his brand is best...
I live on a Christmas tree farm and we use a lot of chain saws...
I never heard of Tanaka and I know how good Stihl's are...
Need I say more...
I live on a Christmas tree farm and we use a lot of chain saws...
I never heard of Tanaka and I know how good Stihl's are...
Need I say more...
I really like my Stihl Farm Boss I bought last fall. It pulls a 18" bar with no problem.
It will give you a work out limbing with it, but it work well for me.
Good luck and be careful with whatever saw you buy.
It will give you a work out limbing with it, but it work well for me.
Good luck and be careful with whatever saw you buy.
Do you have a Husqvarna dealer near you? If so you might want to check them out. I bought a 450 a year ago am I'm very happy with it. The deciding factor for me between the 450 and other saws (Husky 455 and comparible Stihl saws) was the power to wieght ratio. It felt like a very well balanced all purpose saw that you could cut for hours with and not break your back but at same time have the power to get the job done.
That was a year ago and I've probably cut around 5 or 6 cords of wood with it (all hard wood) and never felt like I needed more power and haven't had any problems with it. I think it has a 3 year warranty too. The only complaint that I have is that it seems to drip a little more bar oil after it's been used than other saws I've had which isn't a big deal.
That was a year ago and I've probably cut around 5 or 6 cords of wood with it (all hard wood) and never felt like I needed more power and haven't had any problems with it. I think it has a 3 year warranty too. The only complaint that I have is that it seems to drip a little more bar oil after it's been used than other saws I've had which isn't a big deal.
Strongly agree with previous comments about dealer bias.
Power to weight ratio also really hit home with me.
Ever since working in wood as a teenager (long, LONG ago), there was only ONE chainsaw, the Stihl Farm Boss.
Problem to me is that ol Farm Boss still has the same power, and is still just an heavy (very) as it was then despite significant advances in technology used by other manufacturers .
My latest saw (and I have owned/used scores over the years) is a Husky.
Plenty of power at a reasonable weight to use all day.
Just the .02 of an old gaseous guy
Power to weight ratio also really hit home with me.
Ever since working in wood as a teenager (long, LONG ago), there was only ONE chainsaw, the Stihl Farm Boss.
Problem to me is that ol Farm Boss still has the same power, and is still just an heavy (very) as it was then despite significant advances in technology used by other manufacturers .
My latest saw (and I have owned/used scores over the years) is a Husky.
Plenty of power at a reasonable weight to use all day.
Just the .02 of an old gaseous guy
I use a Stihl MS250 16" bar and it is a real good saw for my needs. I have cut a few 16-18" trees. It does ok, but I can really tell it is working when the diameter gets that big. I was only doing a tree that size 1 at a time not several so If I was you I would step up to a little bit bigger of a saw.
Whatever you go with, make sure it's at least 50cc's and up. I've run a few saw's over the past months ranging from 50-72cc and the best all around was my Dad's Johnsered 2165. It's VERY powerful and light for a 4.6+ HP saw.
My brother has a Husky XP272 that flat out rips. Will drop through a piece of wood fastest out of any saw I've run. It's rated at 13,500 rpm +/- 1k. I think it's over 6HP too. 72cc's but a bit heavier than Dad's and you notice it quick! It is also about 10+ years older than the 2165.
I also ran a brand new Husky 350 when limbing and was a fine saw for that but for bucking it sucked IMO. Not near enough power. My old Stihl WB 028 is a fine saw too for all around homeowner/cord wood. Has never let me down but If I ever have to replace (which I highly doubt) I will go bigger.
It is not fair to compare my old 028 to the newer saws as it's over 25 years old I'm told. It had no problem at all keeping up with my friends brand new husky 455 Rancher. Neck and neck bucking a white maple we felled in my yard. He is running an 18" bar and me a 16".
Better to get a little bigger saw than you need. Just get a professional saw and it'll be light and powerful.
Make sure to compare saws correctly. Stihl has mid grade saws that IMO are not near as nice as there top end, as should be. I would not buy a mid grade Stihl. They do not have the good vibration system that the pro (line) saws do. My old 028 has a better system than the new farm boss line saws IMO.
I'm not sure what would be the replacement saw for my old 028WB.
MU
My brother has a Husky XP272 that flat out rips. Will drop through a piece of wood fastest out of any saw I've run. It's rated at 13,500 rpm +/- 1k. I think it's over 6HP too. 72cc's but a bit heavier than Dad's and you notice it quick! It is also about 10+ years older than the 2165.
I also ran a brand new Husky 350 when limbing and was a fine saw for that but for bucking it sucked IMO. Not near enough power. My old Stihl WB 028 is a fine saw too for all around homeowner/cord wood. Has never let me down but If I ever have to replace (which I highly doubt) I will go bigger.
It is not fair to compare my old 028 to the newer saws as it's over 25 years old I'm told. It had no problem at all keeping up with my friends brand new husky 455 Rancher. Neck and neck bucking a white maple we felled in my yard. He is running an 18" bar and me a 16".
Better to get a little bigger saw than you need. Just get a professional saw and it'll be light and powerful.
Make sure to compare saws correctly. Stihl has mid grade saws that IMO are not near as nice as there top end, as should be. I would not buy a mid grade Stihl. They do not have the good vibration system that the pro (line) saws do. My old 028 has a better system than the new farm boss line saws IMO.
I'm not sure what would be the replacement saw for my old 028WB.
MU
Just curious if the Husky 350 had the anti-kickback chain on it that they come with sometimes. If so, that could have been the problem. The first thing I did when I got my 450 was junk that anti-kickback chain and put a good agressive chain on it. I've got an 18" bar and as long as my chain is sharp I don't have any problems.Whatever you go with, make sure it's at least 50cc's and up. I've run a few saw's over the past months ranging from 50-72cc and the best all around was my Dad's Johnsered 2165. It's VERY powerful and light for a 4.6+ HP saw.
My brother has a Husky XP272 that flat out rips. Will drop through a piece of wood fastest out of any saw I've run. It's rated at 13,500 rpm +/- 1k. I think it's over 6HP too. 72cc's but a bit heavier than Dad's and you notice it quick! It is also about 10+ years older than the 2165.
I also ran a brand new Husky 350 when limbing and was a fine saw for that but for bucking it sucked IMO. Not near enough power. My old Stihl WB 028 is a fine saw too for all around homeowner/cord wood. Has never let me down but If I ever have to replace (which I highly doubt) I will go bigger.
It is not fair to compare my old 028 to the newer saws as it's over 25 years old I'm told. It had no problem at all keeping up with my friends brand new husky 455 Rancher. Neck and neck bucking a white maple we felled in my yard. He is running an 18" bar and me a 16".
Better to get a little bigger saw than you need. Just get a professional saw and it'll be light and powerful.
Make sure to compare saws correctly. Stihl has mid grade saws that IMO are not near as nice as there top end, as should be. I would not buy a mid grade Stihl. They do not have the good vibration system that the pro (line) saws do. My old 028 has a better system than the new farm boss line saws IMO.
I'm not sure what would be the replacement saw for my old 028WB.
MU
I don't have alot of chainsaw experience, but I recently bought a used Echo CS-370. I have run it only on test cuts, but I have been very impressed with it so far. It sounds like a CS-370 might be a little small for your intended use, but the larger Echo models might fit the bill. Echo's have a 5 year warranty as well. If I were in need of a larger saw, I would at least consider an Echo. A CS-450 (45cc / 18 in) or a CS-530 (50cc / 20 in) would be some models that might fit your requirements.
With the list that you are considering, it sounds like you'll end up with a winner no matter what you choose. Good luck.
With the list that you are considering, it sounds like you'll end up with a winner no matter what you choose. Good luck.
OK, I looked into the Husqvarnasaws and for the same HP saws, they are actually more money than the Stihl saws! ...
I have my choices narrowed down between the MS290 Farm Boss and the MS361 Pro - either way I'm going with a 20" bar
the main differences that I see between the two are that the MS361 has their advanced vibration reduction system and the Farm Boss doesn't ... also, the MS361 is 4.4HP where the MS290n is 3.8 (probably not that much of a difference for my use to be honest) - surprisingly, the bigger pro saw is also a little bit lighter weight ...
nothing else is mentioned anywhwere on the Stihl website that even hints at what the specific differences are between the mid-use and the pro series saws ... in fact, the Farm Boss even goes as far as to say it uses the same internal engine parts as the pro saws
there's a $300 difference between the two saws, and when I asked where this extra cost is going, and the best answer I got was that it has more HP and that it's a 'pro' saw ... I don't mind spending the extra if it's going to good use, but I really want to know where the extra money is going as far as features and build quality ... what exactly is different about these two saws?
are there any experienced Stihl users here that can tell me just how important this anti-vibration system is as far as using a chainsaw? ... the MS290 Farm Boss is the number 1 selling Stihl saw, and it DOESN'T have it, so I know it's not necessary or else they wouldn't sell so many of them ... but just how much of a difference does it make?
at this point I'm leaning towards the MS290 Farm Boss like all of the other sheep ... unless I can come up with a compelling reason to spend almost twice as much on the pro saw with very little HP increase, slightly reduced weight and a vibration reduction system
it seems so obvious doesn't it? ... GO FOR THE MS290 FARM BOSS! ... yet there's still that little voice telling me to question just why Stihl even makes and sells the MN361 if there's supposedly so little different about it, yet it almost doubles the price ... there are plenty of people buying them, enough so that they keep the MS361 in stock where many of the other models have to be ordered ... I obviously didn't talk to someone who really knew the ins and outs of the Stihl lineup, even though the person I talked to was the store 'expert' on chainsaws - but is there anyone here with actual knowledge of these saws that can properly answer my burning question and help me make the best decision?
why would I (or anyone for that matter) spend $619 for a MS361 with a 20" bar instead of $369 for the MS290 with 20" bar? ... I'm fairly certain that this isn't a case of them selling them just because of a perceived notion that they must be better because they cost more, there has to be more to it than that
along with the saw, I'm picking up a hard case, plenty of engine and bar oil as well as a 14" or 16" bar and a few extra chains to go along with it ... is there anything else I should add to my shopping list when I get the saw? (I already have headphones)
thanks for all of the opinions so far, it's definitely helped me narrow it down - and now that it's just between the two saws I feel a lot better about it ... I'm planning on buying one or the other tomorrow (Thursday) afternoon/evening - any opinions or information I can get by then would be a REALLY big help
BTW ... this is what my wife and I decided to get for our 10th aniversary ... it was today (August 26th) ... not too many people can list a chainsaw as an aniversary present :ROF
thanks again
I have my choices narrowed down between the MS290 Farm Boss and the MS361 Pro - either way I'm going with a 20" bar
the main differences that I see between the two are that the MS361 has their advanced vibration reduction system and the Farm Boss doesn't ... also, the MS361 is 4.4HP where the MS290n is 3.8 (probably not that much of a difference for my use to be honest) - surprisingly, the bigger pro saw is also a little bit lighter weight ...
nothing else is mentioned anywhwere on the Stihl website that even hints at what the specific differences are between the mid-use and the pro series saws ... in fact, the Farm Boss even goes as far as to say it uses the same internal engine parts as the pro saws
there's a $300 difference between the two saws, and when I asked where this extra cost is going, and the best answer I got was that it has more HP and that it's a 'pro' saw ... I don't mind spending the extra if it's going to good use, but I really want to know where the extra money is going as far as features and build quality ... what exactly is different about these two saws?
are there any experienced Stihl users here that can tell me just how important this anti-vibration system is as far as using a chainsaw? ... the MS290 Farm Boss is the number 1 selling Stihl saw, and it DOESN'T have it, so I know it's not necessary or else they wouldn't sell so many of them ... but just how much of a difference does it make?
at this point I'm leaning towards the MS290 Farm Boss like all of the other sheep ... unless I can come up with a compelling reason to spend almost twice as much on the pro saw with very little HP increase, slightly reduced weight and a vibration reduction system
it seems so obvious doesn't it? ... GO FOR THE MS290 FARM BOSS! ... yet there's still that little voice telling me to question just why Stihl even makes and sells the MN361 if there's supposedly so little different about it, yet it almost doubles the price ... there are plenty of people buying them, enough so that they keep the MS361 in stock where many of the other models have to be ordered ... I obviously didn't talk to someone who really knew the ins and outs of the Stihl lineup, even though the person I talked to was the store 'expert' on chainsaws - but is there anyone here with actual knowledge of these saws that can properly answer my burning question and help me make the best decision?
why would I (or anyone for that matter) spend $619 for a MS361 with a 20" bar instead of $369 for the MS290 with 20" bar? ... I'm fairly certain that this isn't a case of them selling them just because of a perceived notion that they must be better because they cost more, there has to be more to it than that
along with the saw, I'm picking up a hard case, plenty of engine and bar oil as well as a 14" or 16" bar and a few extra chains to go along with it ... is there anything else I should add to my shopping list when I get the saw? (I already have headphones)
thanks for all of the opinions so far, it's definitely helped me narrow it down - and now that it's just between the two saws I feel a lot better about it ... I'm planning on buying one or the other tomorrow (Thursday) afternoon/evening - any opinions or information I can get by then would be a REALLY big help
BTW ... this is what my wife and I decided to get for our 10th aniversary ... it was today (August 26th) ... not too many people can list a chainsaw as an aniversary present :ROF
thanks again
All I can say is, the farm boss is a great saw for the weekend warrior. If you run them both for any length of time, you'll find out the difference. 361 pro with a 20" bar, would be my choice, if finances allow.
Like stated you'll need a small limbin saw too. stihl ms 200.
GOOD LUCK!!!
Like stated you'll need a small limbin saw too. stihl ms 200.
GOOD LUCK!!!
The Stihl MS 280 is another good choice 20" bars are it's longest.OK, I looked into the Husqvarnasaws and for the same HP saws, they are actually more money than the Stihl saws! ...
I have my choices narrowed down between the MS290 Farm Boss and the MS361 Pro - either way I'm going with a 20" bar
the main differences that I see between the two are that the MS361 has their advanced vibration reduction system and the Farm Boss doesn't ... also, the MS361 is 4.4HP where the MS290n is 3.8 (probably not that much of a difference for my use to be honest) - surprisingly, the bigger pro saw is also a little bit lighter weight ...
nothing else is mentioned anywhwere on the Stihl website that even hints at what the specific differences are between the mid-use and the pro series saws ... in fact, the Farm Boss even goes as far as to say it uses the same internal engine parts as the pro saws
there's a $300 difference between the two saws, and when I asked where this extra cost is going, and the best answer I got was that it has more HP and that it's a 'pro' saw ... I don't mind spending the extra if it's going to good use, but I really want to know where the extra money is going as far as features and build quality ... what exactly is different about these two saws?
are there any experienced Stihl users here that can tell me just how important this anti-vibration system is as far as using a chainsaw? ... the MS290 Farm Boss is the number 1 selling Stihl saw, and it DOESN'T have it, so I know it's not necessary or else they wouldn't sell so many of them ... but just how much of a difference does it make?
at this point I'm leaning towards the MS290 Farm Boss like all of the other sheep ... unless I can come up with a compelling reason to spend almost twice as much on the pro saw with very little HP increase, slightly reduced weight and a vibration reduction system
it seems so obvious doesn't it? ... GO FOR THE MS290 FARM BOSS! ... yet there's still that little voice telling me to question just why Stihl even makes and sells the MN361 if there's supposedly so little different about it, yet it almost doubles the price ... there are plenty of people buying them, enough so that they keep the MS361 in stock where many of the other models have to be ordered ... I obviously didn't talk to someone who really knew the ins and outs of the Stihl lineup, even though the person I talked to was the store 'expert' on chainsaws - but is there anyone here with actual knowledge of these saws that can properly answer my burning question and help me make the best decision?
why would I (or anyone for that matter) spend $619 for a MS361 with a 20" bar instead of $369 for the MS290 with 20" bar? ... I'm fairly certain that this isn't a case of them selling them just because of a perceived notion that they must be better because they cost more, there has to be more to it than that
along with the saw, I'm picking up a hard case, plenty of engine and bar oil as well as a 14" or 16" bar and a few extra chains to go along with it ... is there anything else I should add to my shopping list when I get the saw? (I already have headphones)
thanks for all of the opinions so far, it's definitely helped me narrow it down - and now that it's just between the two saws I feel a lot better about it ... I'm planning on buying one or the other tomorrow (Thursday) afternoon/evening - any opinions or information I can get by then would be a REALLY big help
BTW ... this is what my wife and I decided to get for our 10th aniversary ... it was today (August 26th) ... not too many people can list a chainsaw as an aniversary present :ROF
thanks again
I really like mine.
hi,i have 100 acres of woods,some trees are 2' and i got the ms290 with 18" bar,i like it,it works great.would have like one with more power but it was alot more money.i don't really notice much vibration to it.got it from a Stihl dealer that really knew his stuff and he explained the diff between the ms 290 and the pro saw very good.if I had the money i would have got the pro saw but for 6 acres you might not need it.he said most people working in the woods use the 250 which is lighter.when i'm limbing a down tree i rest the saw on the tree as i move it around to cut off the limbs,this way i am not holding the weight of the saw.someone already said about having a agressive chain as long as your not worried about kickback.try to buy from STIHL dealer,not napa.where does napa get the service work done??where are tanaka made?don't forget your helmet and chaps.good luck i hope your wife enjoys using the saw.
well, no saw yet and I now have a couple days for further research before taking the plunge ... I found a dealer (hardware store) about 50 miles away that's having a sale starting Sept 1st and the MS290 Farm Boss with 20" bar will be $329 and the MS361 with 20" bar will be $589 ... so I'm going to wait a couple days for that sale and cash in on that ... that's about $40 cheaper than 'regular' price, which just about covers the cost of the hard case
I have found some information on my own now to the differences between the saws ... it has to do with the way the chassis are designed and what the chassis are made out of ... also, the filtration system is easier to maintain and service on the pro saws in case they need to be worked on way out in the woods ... apparently the pro saws have a spring type anti-vibration system where the MS290 uses rubber mounts - it does make a noticeable difference, but only if you use both saws and compare them to each other, or if you're super used to one style you may notice that the other is different
also, since the pro series uses milled metal for the chassis and oil tanks (the non-pro saws use molded plastic), they allow the oil tanks to be closer to the engine and exhaust, which has the interesting and nice side effect of allowing the bar oil to be kept warm and therefore improving the chain oiling performance during really cold weather ...
one thing I like about this dealer is that they prep all of the MS290 Farm Boss saws with a 3/8 chain instead of the .325 that they all normally come with for no extra charge ... the 'master tech' that I talked with today said that the saw runs a 3/8 chain just fine and it's just a matter of replacing the sprocket and then all the rest is just off -the-shelf bar and chains ... they do this because the tech has seen more than a few .325 chains worn down to the rivets in certain spots, and the 3/8 chain is apparently much more ruggedly built in that area (I don't remember which part of the chain because this is all new to me and I'm not yet familiar with the nomenclature) ... also, people who have multiple saws are more likely to have bigger saws, and therefore use 3/8 chain anyways, so it simplifies spare parts and interchangeability ... this all sounds like a great idea to me, but as I said, I don't know much about chainsaws yet, so I don't know if there's a disadvantage to this whole setup or not ... but I like the idea of having a beefier chain and sprocket if I do get a Farm Boss
it's in my nature to overbuy my gear (sometimes by a LOT) so it lasts longer, but even so, I'm still leaning more towards the MS290 Farm Boss than the pro MS361 at this point just because I can imagine how much, and what type of use this saw is going to see over it's lifetime and it looks like even the MS290 is buying more than I technically need ... it would be more effort and equipment wear, but I could probably get away with an occasional-use saw if I really, really had to
as stated above, I need to do some thicket and grove clearing and out of our 6 acres, I have about 2.5 acres of nicely spaced woods (I can fit a 60" ZTM between all but a few of the trees) with one of those old temporary windbreaks along one of the property edges with ultra-fast growing poplar trees only live for 5-10 years or so that farmers used to put up while they are waiting for the proper, yet slower growing pine tree windbreaks to fully grow in (which they did long ago) - then they lop off the dead poplar trees and let brush grow in to cover them up if they're lazy, like the previous owner of my property was
this defunct windbreak row is about 500 feet long and maybe 20 feet 'deep' with poplars spaced 2-10 feet apart and maybe 70% of them still alive and some of them already lopped off and terminating at a stump about 2-4 feet high ... needless to say there is an overabundance of smaller "trees of opportunity" and other bushes that have made it difficult to walk through in some parts - my goal is to reclaim this substantial portion of land by removing all of the dead or dying trees, clearing out the brush and removing a good amount of the healthy trees as well
the poplars range from 1" saplings to the largest ones being around 18" thick and maybe 30-40 feet high I'm guessing ... but most of them are in the 10"-14" thick, 20 feet high range
so ... my plan is to fell these trees, pull them out with chains/straps using my Jeep into a large clearing and eventually either cut them into firewood for our own use, or place a CL ad and see if anyone wants to come and cut them up on the spot themselves, or take them whole for the same reason ... that's what this saw is for
now I'm FAR from an expert when it comes to using a chainsaw, but I am one of the most safety conscientious people that I know, so I'm going to take it slow and careful and I already know it's going to take me longer than it theoretically should ...
I'm guessing the work load will be around 7-10 days worth of 4-6 hours per day of actual saw use - (with all honesty, this is probably a gross overestimate of how much cutting time this saw will see for this project, but I'm estimating everything to be on the safe side just in case) ... this imaginary scenario of clear cutting out this poplar/brush row is what I've been using all along as a guide to tell me which model chainsaw I should be looking at for this purchase
after this horrible amount of tree clearing work, the saw will maybe be used 2-3 times per year for 1-2 hours per time ... just grounds maintenance like pruning or removing a dead branch or tree and occasional firewood cutting if we get into using our wood stove and fireplaces (which is doubtful)
from everything I can see, I don't see any reason the MS290 couldn't handle this initial harsh(?) workload and then the occasional use mentioned above and still provide decades of faithful performance (I'm taking into consideration that I will take extremely OCD like measures to properly break in whichever saw I buy before starting on the actual work, clean it hourly and treat it as if I were handling a giant egg ... and during the hard work I'll make sure to give it rest breaks from time to time)
so ... call for more opinions ... the work described above ... would you guys consider that to be 'extreme' or 'pro use' criteria where I should definitely need a pro saw like the MS361? ... is the initial chore of clearing this poplar row going to substantially lower the lifespan of a saw like the Farm Boss? ... is the type of work I'm going to be doing (even though it's just the one project) enough reason for me to get a pro saw for sure?
I am not a lumberjack ... I do not regularly cut firewood ... I do not have a Christmas tree farm ... beyond the initial **** that this saw (and me along with it) will go through, I expect it to lead a charmed, if not babied, life of being kept clean, oiled, regularly started and ran once a month and always lubricated and serviced with the very best parts and oil that I can get for it ... that's the way I am with all of my equipment and I always have been ... this regime has served me well all these years, and I still have tools and power equipment that I bought 20 years ago that still looks and works like it was new - I regret nothing!
but the clearing of this poplar mess IS going to be a nasty business, there's no doubt about it - and it IS going to be hard on the saw, no matter which one model I buy ... knowing all this, am I still going to be OK with the lesser model MS290 Farm Boss?
also ... I was planning on getting a 20" bar as well as a 16" bar ... is this a good plan, or should I get a 14" and a 18" or something like that?
as far as aggressive chains go, it sounds like a great idea to me, but in this case I'm going to play it safe and stick with the green label 'low kickback' chains, although I certainly will get the nicest and most aggressive safety chain Stihl makes - and I'll be buying a few extra chains and just swap them out until I get good at sharpening them myself ... I'll be looking at the face shields and safety aprons while I'm there too
I want to seriously thank all of you that took the time to read my often too long posts here and reply to them with the excellent advice that you've given me so far ... the members here really are some of the nicest people that I've ever come across on an internet forum, and that's saying a lot ... as the title says, this really is a BIG PURCHASE for me for several reasons ... I might have this saw 25 years from now for all I know - and with money being tight at the moment, I want to really make it count ... I'm not opposed to spending the extra $260 on the pro saw if it's worth it in the end, I just need to make sure I make the right purchase the first time because I have a feeling I won't be able to return the saw and get the other model if I end up changing my mind after the fact
thanks again, hope to hear a few more opinions before buy-day
I have found some information on my own now to the differences between the saws ... it has to do with the way the chassis are designed and what the chassis are made out of ... also, the filtration system is easier to maintain and service on the pro saws in case they need to be worked on way out in the woods ... apparently the pro saws have a spring type anti-vibration system where the MS290 uses rubber mounts - it does make a noticeable difference, but only if you use both saws and compare them to each other, or if you're super used to one style you may notice that the other is different
also, since the pro series uses milled metal for the chassis and oil tanks (the non-pro saws use molded plastic), they allow the oil tanks to be closer to the engine and exhaust, which has the interesting and nice side effect of allowing the bar oil to be kept warm and therefore improving the chain oiling performance during really cold weather ...
one thing I like about this dealer is that they prep all of the MS290 Farm Boss saws with a 3/8 chain instead of the .325 that they all normally come with for no extra charge ... the 'master tech' that I talked with today said that the saw runs a 3/8 chain just fine and it's just a matter of replacing the sprocket and then all the rest is just off -the-shelf bar and chains ... they do this because the tech has seen more than a few .325 chains worn down to the rivets in certain spots, and the 3/8 chain is apparently much more ruggedly built in that area (I don't remember which part of the chain because this is all new to me and I'm not yet familiar with the nomenclature) ... also, people who have multiple saws are more likely to have bigger saws, and therefore use 3/8 chain anyways, so it simplifies spare parts and interchangeability ... this all sounds like a great idea to me, but as I said, I don't know much about chainsaws yet, so I don't know if there's a disadvantage to this whole setup or not ... but I like the idea of having a beefier chain and sprocket if I do get a Farm Boss
it's in my nature to overbuy my gear (sometimes by a LOT) so it lasts longer, but even so, I'm still leaning more towards the MS290 Farm Boss than the pro MS361 at this point just because I can imagine how much, and what type of use this saw is going to see over it's lifetime and it looks like even the MS290 is buying more than I technically need ... it would be more effort and equipment wear, but I could probably get away with an occasional-use saw if I really, really had to
as stated above, I need to do some thicket and grove clearing and out of our 6 acres, I have about 2.5 acres of nicely spaced woods (I can fit a 60" ZTM between all but a few of the trees) with one of those old temporary windbreaks along one of the property edges with ultra-fast growing poplar trees only live for 5-10 years or so that farmers used to put up while they are waiting for the proper, yet slower growing pine tree windbreaks to fully grow in (which they did long ago) - then they lop off the dead poplar trees and let brush grow in to cover them up if they're lazy, like the previous owner of my property was
this defunct windbreak row is about 500 feet long and maybe 20 feet 'deep' with poplars spaced 2-10 feet apart and maybe 70% of them still alive and some of them already lopped off and terminating at a stump about 2-4 feet high ... needless to say there is an overabundance of smaller "trees of opportunity" and other bushes that have made it difficult to walk through in some parts - my goal is to reclaim this substantial portion of land by removing all of the dead or dying trees, clearing out the brush and removing a good amount of the healthy trees as well
the poplars range from 1" saplings to the largest ones being around 18" thick and maybe 30-40 feet high I'm guessing ... but most of them are in the 10"-14" thick, 20 feet high range
so ... my plan is to fell these trees, pull them out with chains/straps using my Jeep into a large clearing and eventually either cut them into firewood for our own use, or place a CL ad and see if anyone wants to come and cut them up on the spot themselves, or take them whole for the same reason ... that's what this saw is for
now I'm FAR from an expert when it comes to using a chainsaw, but I am one of the most safety conscientious people that I know, so I'm going to take it slow and careful and I already know it's going to take me longer than it theoretically should ...
I'm guessing the work load will be around 7-10 days worth of 4-6 hours per day of actual saw use - (with all honesty, this is probably a gross overestimate of how much cutting time this saw will see for this project, but I'm estimating everything to be on the safe side just in case) ... this imaginary scenario of clear cutting out this poplar/brush row is what I've been using all along as a guide to tell me which model chainsaw I should be looking at for this purchase
after this horrible amount of tree clearing work, the saw will maybe be used 2-3 times per year for 1-2 hours per time ... just grounds maintenance like pruning or removing a dead branch or tree and occasional firewood cutting if we get into using our wood stove and fireplaces (which is doubtful)
from everything I can see, I don't see any reason the MS290 couldn't handle this initial harsh(?) workload and then the occasional use mentioned above and still provide decades of faithful performance (I'm taking into consideration that I will take extremely OCD like measures to properly break in whichever saw I buy before starting on the actual work, clean it hourly and treat it as if I were handling a giant egg ... and during the hard work I'll make sure to give it rest breaks from time to time)
so ... call for more opinions ... the work described above ... would you guys consider that to be 'extreme' or 'pro use' criteria where I should definitely need a pro saw like the MS361? ... is the initial chore of clearing this poplar row going to substantially lower the lifespan of a saw like the Farm Boss? ... is the type of work I'm going to be doing (even though it's just the one project) enough reason for me to get a pro saw for sure?
I am not a lumberjack ... I do not regularly cut firewood ... I do not have a Christmas tree farm ... beyond the initial **** that this saw (and me along with it) will go through, I expect it to lead a charmed, if not babied, life of being kept clean, oiled, regularly started and ran once a month and always lubricated and serviced with the very best parts and oil that I can get for it ... that's the way I am with all of my equipment and I always have been ... this regime has served me well all these years, and I still have tools and power equipment that I bought 20 years ago that still looks and works like it was new - I regret nothing!
but the clearing of this poplar mess IS going to be a nasty business, there's no doubt about it - and it IS going to be hard on the saw, no matter which one model I buy ... knowing all this, am I still going to be OK with the lesser model MS290 Farm Boss?
also ... I was planning on getting a 20" bar as well as a 16" bar ... is this a good plan, or should I get a 14" and a 18" or something like that?
as far as aggressive chains go, it sounds like a great idea to me, but in this case I'm going to play it safe and stick with the green label 'low kickback' chains, although I certainly will get the nicest and most aggressive safety chain Stihl makes - and I'll be buying a few extra chains and just swap them out until I get good at sharpening them myself ... I'll be looking at the face shields and safety aprons while I'm there too
I want to seriously thank all of you that took the time to read my often too long posts here and reply to them with the excellent advice that you've given me so far ... the members here really are some of the nicest people that I've ever come across on an internet forum, and that's saying a lot ... as the title says, this really is a BIG PURCHASE for me for several reasons ... I might have this saw 25 years from now for all I know - and with money being tight at the moment, I want to really make it count ... I'm not opposed to spending the extra $260 on the pro saw if it's worth it in the end, I just need to make sure I make the right purchase the first time because I have a feeling I won't be able to return the saw and get the other model if I end up changing my mind after the fact
thanks again, hope to hear a few more opinions before buy-day
I have no frame of reference for stihl. never used one, I do know they are just about the gold standard that all other saws apparently are supposed to measure up to.
In highschool I was a timberJack for 5 years, for a firewood company owned by my shopteacher. after school and on weekends i was running a saw, stacking, running a saw, driving a 74 ford 3 ton, or running a saw. he used exclusively jonsereds. he said he'd had bad experience with warranty on stihl, and how the saw had to be sent away, and he was looking at about 2 months turnaround to get it back. he told them to keep it, as he could get the jonsered serviced anywhere to be within warranty. maybe stihl has changed, but he had to send his in. also, in the 5 years i'd worked for him, the only thing we ever had to do to 5 chainsaws was sharpen/replace chains, and a couple guide bars aside from the regular maintenance - filter and sparkplugs. like you, these chainsaws were meticulously maintained - he kept a ledger of hours for the saws, at the beginning of the day you'd 'sign one out' like a library book, noting the times out and in.
i have 2 saws myself, and like yourself, I am not a professional lumberjack, however i desire a well built saw. It's a shame maculloch was acquired by poulan. mac's were good heavy saws, then cheapened and crappened, and now poulan has all but turfed the mac name. I have an older mac, 32cc with a 16" bar. this is my go to saw, for most of my limbs, (well tree limbs), saplings, firewood needs etc. I use this saw about 75% of the time, usually because i've had it so long and, well, it feels like home.
I also have a Jonsered Turbo CS 2165 with an 18" bar. This saw scares me sometime with how fast it is. the anti-vibe system is incredible, and the tool-less chain tensioner is brilliant. I used this last week to take down a dead Elm tree, aka cement tree. it was about 22" in diameter, I thought it would be a workout for the jonsered, but man it went through like butter.
My father in law has a jonny, and swears by it.
In highschool I was a timberJack for 5 years, for a firewood company owned by my shopteacher. after school and on weekends i was running a saw, stacking, running a saw, driving a 74 ford 3 ton, or running a saw. he used exclusively jonsereds. he said he'd had bad experience with warranty on stihl, and how the saw had to be sent away, and he was looking at about 2 months turnaround to get it back. he told them to keep it, as he could get the jonsered serviced anywhere to be within warranty. maybe stihl has changed, but he had to send his in. also, in the 5 years i'd worked for him, the only thing we ever had to do to 5 chainsaws was sharpen/replace chains, and a couple guide bars aside from the regular maintenance - filter and sparkplugs. like you, these chainsaws were meticulously maintained - he kept a ledger of hours for the saws, at the beginning of the day you'd 'sign one out' like a library book, noting the times out and in.
i have 2 saws myself, and like yourself, I am not a professional lumberjack, however i desire a well built saw. It's a shame maculloch was acquired by poulan. mac's were good heavy saws, then cheapened and crappened, and now poulan has all but turfed the mac name. I have an older mac, 32cc with a 16" bar. this is my go to saw, for most of my limbs, (well tree limbs), saplings, firewood needs etc. I use this saw about 75% of the time, usually because i've had it so long and, well, it feels like home.
I also have a Jonsered Turbo CS 2165 with an 18" bar. This saw scares me sometime with how fast it is. the anti-vibe system is incredible, and the tool-less chain tensioner is brilliant. I used this last week to take down a dead Elm tree, aka cement tree. it was about 22" in diameter, I thought it would be a workout for the jonsered, but man it went through like butter.
My father in law has a jonny, and swears by it.
After readin' your explanation, I would say that you'd probably be fine with the 290. It will handle everything you mentioned, maybe not as fast, but that's besides the point.
GOOD LUCK!!!!:wwp: :wwp:
GOOD LUCK!!!!:wwp: :wwp:
I would strongly recommend the Stihl. You will not find a better saw. I used a Homelite Super 2 for years which was great, but just not robust enough (I still have it for trimming).
We had a severe ice storm last winter and when spring came around to clean it all up, I got out my Homelite and my father in law brought over his refurbished Homelite he bought for 50% off. Well, that one ran for an hour and was dead. Mine broke a sprocket. So now the two of us were out of commision and using hand tools. His finally got fixed under warranty..............2 months later. The blade for mine took a week and a half to come in.
So I decided that I had had enough and went out and bought a Stihl Farm Boss with an 18" blade. You would not believe the quality! Smooth start, smooth running and a boatload of power. I call it my butter knife. Honestly, I couldn't believe it when I cut my first tree with it.
From the sound of your application I would not go less than 18" blade. I think the Farm Boss (MS290) is available with 16, 18, or 20 blade.
I considered the Wood Boss (MS 270 I think), but it's actually more expensive due to the power/weight ratio. I don't think you get much weight reduction to be worth it. It also has a seperated body which provides some damping effect, but I don't know how valuable this is either.
The MS290 is plenty smooth to use and easy to maneuver.
If you buy a Stihl, you know you're getting the best and won't have to worry. Whatever that other brand you're considering I'm sure is high quality, but it's not a Stihl. I'd get the Farm Boss for what it can do and for peace of mind.
SMS
We had a severe ice storm last winter and when spring came around to clean it all up, I got out my Homelite and my father in law brought over his refurbished Homelite he bought for 50% off. Well, that one ran for an hour and was dead. Mine broke a sprocket. So now the two of us were out of commision and using hand tools. His finally got fixed under warranty..............2 months later. The blade for mine took a week and a half to come in.
So I decided that I had had enough and went out and bought a Stihl Farm Boss with an 18" blade. You would not believe the quality! Smooth start, smooth running and a boatload of power. I call it my butter knife. Honestly, I couldn't believe it when I cut my first tree with it.
From the sound of your application I would not go less than 18" blade. I think the Farm Boss (MS290) is available with 16, 18, or 20 blade.
I considered the Wood Boss (MS 270 I think), but it's actually more expensive due to the power/weight ratio. I don't think you get much weight reduction to be worth it. It also has a seperated body which provides some damping effect, but I don't know how valuable this is either.
The MS290 is plenty smooth to use and easy to maneuver.
If you buy a Stihl, you know you're getting the best and won't have to worry. Whatever that other brand you're considering I'm sure is high quality, but it's not a Stihl. I'd get the Farm Boss for what it can do and for peace of mind.
SMS
stihl 260 pro. it's the smallest pro saw with aluminum case. it's lighter than the bosses with virtually the same power. my old 026 handles an 20" 3/8 pitch chain with ease. my neighbor has a brand new ms310 with a 20" bar and i can run with him cut for cut. the 3/8" chain is far better than the standard .325. it's cheaper, easier to sharpen and cuts faster.
I just bought the ms-361 and like it. seems powerful but doesnt seem to pull the RPM's id like. Maybe some fine tuning. its still brand new well 2nd season. 3 tanks of gas.
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