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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
What is the preferred method for removing the blade drivers on a V series
(10304). I am thinking of exhaust port cleaning tomorrow. Anything else I should get or do while doing this step?

I heard its best to install the V series blades perpendicular to the engine with the piston at top dead center. Is this the case for the Duraforces as well?

Anyone have a recommendation on using a Gator mulching blade with both mowers-what about with or without the fans? The 10304 I use as a side discharge so I am thinking its best to leave the fan off. The Duraforce though is the mulcher so Gator+fan? Best place to order the blades from?

Thanks!
 

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What is the preferred method for removing the blade drivers on a V series
(10304) and on a DuraForce (10324). I am thinking of exhaust port cleaning tomorrow. Anything else I should get or do while doing this step?
I've removed quite a few from F engines by striking them at an angle with a hard plastic hammer. Basically you want to strike it so that you are rotating in in the direction in which the blade would spin. This may also work on a V.

Sorry, don't know about the rest...
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I've removed quite a few from F engines by striking them at an angle with a hard plastic hammer. Basically you want to strike it so that you are rotating in in the direction in which the blade would spin. This may also work on a V.

Sorry, don't know about the rest...

Rotation is counterclockwise?
 

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Rotation is counterclockwise?
From the bottom, yes. If you're unsure, pull the starter slowly and watch which way the crank turns. When you strike the backing plate, you want to be hitting it so that you are pushing it in the same direction.
 

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Lawnboy Green
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Some can be very difficult whereas others pop off without issue. If you have a stubborn one, soak it top and bottom in penetrating oil and let it sit for an hour or so. Like has been said, tapping works wonders because the blade adapter is tapered on the side where it meets the crank. If this wont do it, heat it and then it should come off.

This is a good time to check your lower seal to see if there is any seepage below the case on the crank. If the seal is leaking the crank will be wet from oil. If the seals have never been changed, this might be a good time to change them out. They are not expensive and make a big difference in how easy the engine is to start. Loosen the bolts holding the case halves together. Pull the seals and install the new ones. If there is alot of grass and other crap on the lower crankshaft, use some sandpaper and clean the majority of it off the shaft so it doesnt rip the seal as being slid on down. Oil the crankshaft and the seal when you put the new one on. Set it in place with a big socket or a piece of pipe. The depth of the seal would be flush with the casting boss. You can use a little spray copper permatex or Indian head shellac on the case halves when your putting the bolts back in.

If you have questions let us know.

Best wishes,
Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Some can be very difficult whereas others pop off without issue. If you have a stubborn one, soak it top and bottom in penetrating oil and let it sit for an hour or so. Like has been said, tapping works wonders because the blade adapter is tapered on the side where it meets the crank. If this wont do it, heat it and then it should come off.

This is a good time to check your lower seal to see if there is any seepage below the case on the crank. If the seal is leaking the crank will be wet from oil. If the seals have never been changed, this might be a good time to change them out. They are not expensive and make a big difference in how easy the engine is to start. Loosen the bolts holding the case halves together. Pull the seals and install the new ones. If there is alot of grass and other crap on the lower crankshaft, use some sandpaper and clean the majority of it off the shaft so it doesnt rip the seal as being slid on down. Oil the crankshaft and the seal when you put the new one on. Set it in place with a big socket or a piece of pipe. The depth of the seal would be flush with the casting boss. You can use a little spray copper permatex or Indian head shellac on the case halves when your putting the bolts back in.

If you have questions let us know.

Best wishes,
Bob
Wow thanks Bob and everyone. Bob, upon initial inspection the crank seems bone dry. Should I replace them anyways or don't mess with it if it ain't broken deal?
 

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GTP. I don't think you can use the mulch fan with the Gator blade. The mulch fan sits in the cup of the tri-cut blade and I don't believe the Gators have this cup.
 

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On tough to remove blade stiffeners I wrap a wet rag around the crank and heat the center machined ring of the stiffener. One hammer pop and its off.

I never run a mulch fan. They don't do anything for my grass
 

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Lawnboy fixer & user
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Most of the ones I've had to remove were VERY tight and nearly impossible to remove without bending even a little. I keep a new spare adapter just in case.

When I install a new blade adapter, I resurface the area by using valve grinding compound, then twist the adapter till you get a good finish area on both. Then I get everything perfectly clean and use a little anti-sieze on the mating surface. It makes it a little of a pain to tighten, but once tight, haven't had one slip yet. Plus they're easier to remove the next time, 'cause there's no rust.
 

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Now that I have a fully stocked automotive repair shop at my disposal, the O/A torch comes out if I have a stubborn one. Heat it red hot with a pencil-point tip and just pop it off with a prybar. I've wrestled with enough of them when I was younger, even breaking a few when I resorted to using a 3-jaw puller to remove them.
 

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I usually heat up the adapter with a propane torch and squirt WD-40 on the seam between the shaft and adapter. Then heat it back up and repeat. The heat will draw the WD-40 into the seam by capillary action. They usually just pop right off after I use this method.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I usually heat up the adapter with a propane torch and squirt WD-40 on the seam between the shaft and adapter. Then heat it back up and repeat. The heat will draw the WD-40 into the seam by capillary action. They usually just pop right off after I use this method.
Thanks guys. DO you wrap the upper part of the shaft with a wet cloth or anything-how much heat do you apply-30 seconds worth etc?
 

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LAWN-BOY-AHOLIC
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Be carefull hitting the blade adapter very hard with anything as the lower crank bearings could be damaged. I use a puller and then heat the adapter only to get it to pop off. When re-assembling use anti-aseize compound and it will just fall off the next time you take the blade off to sharpen it. Also it is best to use a torque wrench to tighten it to factory specs as the adapter is also a clutch that should slip if you hit a solid object with the engine running. Too tight and it might not slip and bend the crank. One of my LB manuals states for the best performance you should have the blade mounted at 90 degrees to the cylinder at top dead center. Once you determine TDC you can use a file to mark the end of the crank shaft. Good luck.
 

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LAWN-BOY-AHOLIC
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Thanks guys. DO you wrap the upper part of the shaft with a wet cloth or anything-how much heat do you apply-30 seconds worth etc?
Heat it equally then lightly tap it (I don't recomend hitting it) If it doesn't seperate, use more heat and repeat the tapping, again only tap it. Keep the heat away from the shaft so it doesn't travel up to the seal ( a wet rag on the shaft is a good idea if you can get it high enough up). I like the puller as it does not put torque on the shaft and bearings. :bananapow
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Be carefull hitting the blade adapter very hard with anything as the lower crank bearings could be damaged. I use a puller and then heat the adapter only to get it to pop off. When re-assembling use anti-aseize compound and it will just fall off the next time you take the blade off to sharpen it. Also it is best to use a torque wrench to tighten it to factory specs as the adapter is also a clutch that should slip if you hit a solid object with the engine running. Too tight and it might not slip and bend the crank. One of my LB manuals states for the best performance you should have the blade mounted at 90 degrees to the cylinder at top dead center. Once you determine TDC you can use a file to mark the end of the crank shaft. Good luck.

Thank you! Is the 90 degree bf tdc the same for V engine and the duraforces?
 

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I never bothered to look on the V and/or DuraForce engines. One thing to remember though, is the D-400 and D-600 indexed their blades in line with the cylinder with the piston at TDC, not at 90° like the F engine.
 

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Once you determine TDC you can use a file to mark the end of the crank shaft. Good luck.
What's the easiest way to do this? Is there a mark on the flywheel?

I'm picturing a dowel rod inserted in the spark plug hole... there must be an easier way, yes? :)
 

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What's the easiest way to do this? Is there a mark on the flywheel?

I'm picturing a dowel rod inserted in the spark plug hole... there must be an easier way, yes? :)
Oops. repeat of below.
 

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What's the easiest way to do this? Is there a mark on the flywheel?

I'm picturing a dowel rod inserted in the spark plug hole... there must be an easier way, yes? :)
Watch the piston through the exhaust ports and you can watch it rise to it's top most position. You have to bring the piston up to cover the ports when you clean them anyway. Then take a file or dremel tool and cut a line in the bottom face of the crank to show blade orientation. I don't know why they didn't do this from the factory.
 
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