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I'm with rhmarw. I also use the bench grinder for better control and angle retention.

In case you are new to blade sharpening, the original angles -both A and B below- should be followed and retained.
Sharpening down to a fine edge is a mistake. That allows quick wear and rounding of the fine edge as it is too thin to resist wear.

Take off only enough material to bring the leading edge (B) down to a little under 1/32nd of an inch. I then file that front of the 1/32nd edge almost flat. This keeps the blades cutting longer.

View attachment 2507259
This depends on which manufacturer made the blade. Scag blades for example are razor sharp and hold their edge very well.
 

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Regarding the JD two angle method. "B" is not a 90 degree angle. I angle it back slightly, about 5 to 7 degrees. It seems to cut great and lasts a long time with that edge cut. I usually finish that "B" edge with a good file, estimating the angle.

Just an fyi.
 

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Take off only enough material to bring the leading edge (B) down to a little under 1/32nd of an inch. I then file that front of the 1/32nd edge almost flat. This keeps the blades cutting longer.

2507259
SOOO...which is it? If you grind "B" to 1/32", then flatten the edge, you will have more than 1/32". Yet your spec sheet shows 1/64" or less. That's half of 1/32"??????

I usually flatten the edge and clean up the blade bottom first, back past the majority of the edge chips, Then grind down the bevel to a sharp edge and touch up with a file. The flat edge recommendation makes sense though.
 

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I use a bench grinder and balance on either a nail or round screwdriver shaft held in my vise. This is a trick I learned from my father and doesn't require buying anything. Probably takes 10 minutes or so for a set of three blades. Alway remember to clean the blade of all grass before balancing since it can come off and throw off the balance some.
 

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I like to use a file whenever possible unless they are really nicked up bad. Sharpen the beveled edge first then touch up the flat side then last.
 

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I like to use a file whenever possible unless they are really nicked up bad. Sharpen the beveled edge first then touch up the flat side then last.
I'm headed over with my blades. Get that file warmed up. :D

This is about 2 seasons of my AR flint rock fescue fields I mow.

20210611_212420_compress9.jpg
 

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I have quite a collection. These last about 4-5 mowings, of 3-4 acres.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Flap wheel: Do you mean those rigid flat or beveled wheels with overlapping pieces of abrasive cloth? Or do you mean the wood working tool that consists of a lot of strips of abrasive cloth fixed to a mandrel with the balance of each strip hanging loose? The latter is the wrong tool to sharpen blades because it will not maintain a flat surface. The former works, though a belt sander will give you more surface area of abrasive in contact with the blade. A large heavy duty bench (wheel type) grinder is what my local mower shop uses, and they sharpen a lot of landscaper's mowers.
 

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Flap wheel: Do you mean those rigid flat or beveled wheels with overlapping pieces of abrasive cloth?
I think the correct term for those is flap disc. They seem to start out strong but over time lose their bite. Maybe brand makes a difference?
 

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I use a Norton Blaze 4½ inch flap disc along with the All American Sharpener 5005 Jig. Just a few light passes and the blade is sharpened to a 35° angle. The Norton Blaze removes material quickly and light passes are all you need.
With a flap disc, you have to position the disc flat on what you are working on and not on the edge.

 
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