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I have always used a flap disc for sharpening blades. Anyone have anything better?
 

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I use a flap disc along with the All American 5005 jig. The jig attaches to the 4½ angle grinder to keep the grind angle consistent along the length of the blade.
 

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I'm with rhmarw. I also use the bench grinder for better control and angle retention.

In case you are new to blade sharpening, the original angles -both A and B below- should be followed and retained.
Sharpening down to a fine edge is a mistake. That allows quick wear and rounding of the fine edge as it is too thin to resist wear.

Take off only enough material to bring the leading edge (B) down to a little under 1/32nd of an inch. I then file that front of the 1/32nd edge almost flat. This keeps the blades cutting longer.

2507259
 
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I have been using a 6" Bench Grinder for 40 years. I also have a cone shaped balancer to check the balance.
I bought a 6” bench grinder at Rural King. It takes all day for it to put an edge back on the blade.


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I had used an 8" bench grinder forever...a few years ago someone on this site said they use a belt sander...I saw a Porter Cable belt sander for 10 dollars on FB or CL and grabbed it and then I got some fairly course belts on Amazon ...just to try it...I put the blade in a vise and that is all I use now...particularly good at giving you complete control ...it seems easier to see what is being ground down..I use the cone balance then also..... @Alien5044 thank you for that instructional diagram
 

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I learned how to sharpen blades with a bench grinder just this year. A few minutes with each blade is all I did and I'm still getting a good cut about 5 mows into the season.
 
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I'm with rhmarw. I also use the bench grinder for better control and angle retention.

In case you are new to blade sharpening, the original angles -both A and B below- should be followed and retained.
Sharpening down to a fine edge is a mistake. That allows quick wear and rounding of the fine edge as it is too thin to resist wear.

Take off only enough material to bring the leading edge (B) down to a little under 1/32nd of an inch. I then file that front of the 1/32nd edge almost flat. This keeps the blades cutting longer.

View attachment 2507259
I live on a rockpile and mow 2-3 acres of hilly fields--not lawn. I didn't know about this until I looked at my Cub XT3 blades and wondered why they were blunted.

After researching it I started sharpening all my blades and then knocking the edge down. They stay sharp at least 5X longer for me with that edge knocked off. Hitting rocks here is inevitable and that has saved me a lot of sharpening.
 
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The Sandy soil where I live simply acts like a sand blaster, rapidly dulling the blades after mowing 3 acres twice. After mowing 5-6 times the elevators are gone.


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I made a blade sharpener similar to the Magna-Matic ones, so I get a consistent angle on them. Unfortunately, I am still too lazy to do it often enough that it takes awhile to do it when I get around to sharpening them.
 

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I had used an 8" bench grinder forever...a few years ago someone on this site said they use a belt sander...I saw a Porter Cable belt sander for 10 dollars on FB or CL and grabbed it and then I got some fairly course belts on Amazon ...just to try it...I put the blade in a vise and that is all I use now...particularly good at giving you complete control ...it seems easier to see what is being ground down..I use the cone balance then also..... @Alien5044 thank you for that instructional diagram
I bought a Ryobi belt/disc sander year before last. I added it to the top of a work bench just made for that. Sharpening blades became so much easier, 10-15 minutes for a three blade set. A quick check on the cone balancer finishes the job. I seldom use the disc. I’ve gotten a feel for matching the bevel. It just takes a little practice. I service my three mowers and three at a widow friend’s house. A lot of my wear is picking up leaves in the fall.
The Sandy soil where I live simply acts like a sand blaster, rapidly dulling the blades after mowing 3 acres twice. After mowing 5-6 times the elevators are gone.

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We have mostly sand as well and it definitely wears the blades quickly. When it wears through the turned up edge at the back of the blade. It’s time for new ones.
 
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I bought a 6” bench grinder at Rural King. It takes all day for it to put an edge back on the blade.


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I have a 8" /1 h.p. bench grinder and I could grind a blade in half in 2 minutes.
You got the wrong grinder.! 😉
 

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I bought a 6” bench grinder at Rural King. It takes all day for it to put an edge back on the blade.


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I have one similar to the one in the photo. I can do all three blades from my 60" Deck in about 15 minutes.
2507301
 

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40 grit flap disc on a high speed grinder with the blade chucked up in the vise. Excellent results and doesn't build heat like a bench grinder does. Just follow the factory contour. Don't make too shapr and leave the leading edge slightly blunt.

The flap disc will make axes and mauls scary sharp too.
 

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I also have a cone shaped balancer to check the balance.
I use the cone balance then also
Not trying to to hijack but what brand cone balancer are you guys using?
I've not had good luck with some of them so have recently been using a nail until I can find a better cone that really works.
Btw I've been using a Delta bench grinder for 20 years to sharpen blades.
 

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I use a 6" Delta bench grinder and a blade balance as well.

As far as the balance I use,


I try to not let my blades get to dull before I sharpen them.
That way a couple passes across each end and they are ready to balance and reinstall.

The star mounting hole makes a nail almost useless for balancing.
 
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