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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
and I like it.

You treat your mowers like some deluxe sports car with all the care and attention one would give a Lamborghini :thThumbsU

I just want to get mine to mow the grass :banghead3

We seem to have almost established my Viking is a Murray in disguise. Now I need to fix a few things - most pressing is it suddenly stopped - I mean literally skidded to a stop and nearly had me over the steering wheel. Wheeled OK in neutral - got up to the garage and started to fiddle. Worked out it wasn't the transmission ( Peerless hydrostatic) and after a while I got it going (don't know what I did - wasn't anything obvious ) and finished mowing down to the last square meter when it did it again. - This time I could start it and as I slowly let the foot brake off I observed the pulley on top of the transmission was rotating but the more I let the brake off the slower the belt got - the more the engine laboured and smoke started to come from somewhere closer to the front - any more and the engine stalled.

Does that sound like a seized idler pulley? What ever it is I'll need a manual to give me guidance in pulling things apart as this is the first piece of machinery of this type I have ever had to work on so I am unfamiliar with the mechanics of it all. ( But I am not a total novice being in the middle of a total rebuild of a 1963 Morris Mini 850 ( Austin Mini (Cooper) to our American friends)

I have other issues with the deck and blades but they are not as pressing as getting the thing operational at this stage so my questions will keep coming :sorry1:


David L
 

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Old Iron......Forever
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Either the idler or one of the deck spindle bearings if it is happening while the deck is engaged. I didn't see where you disengaged blades and it would then go or not.

The idler is a common bearing failure possibility. Be careful to not "smoke" the belt or you'll be having to hoist the rider up in the air and replace your drive belt. If it is the drive belt that is smoking, that is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Does it with blades in either position - kills the engine quicker if they are engaged
 

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Mower deck would not stop it dead in it's tracks. Sounds like you have a drive pully going bad. Probably need a new drive belt as well. Please keep us posted as to what it is, we learn that way.
 

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Old Iron......Forever
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If it is doing it while the blades are engaged or they aren't then that isn't the deck bearings, unless the belt has slipped off one of the pulley's. It is most likely the idler pulley, a small repair, but you have to get the deck off to do it. The idler pulley just needs to have a 1/2" socket to get it off, and replace the new one (less than $10 in our neck of the woods) and you should be good to go again.

AS was mentioned about the transaxle pulley, unless the trans is locking up, which you indicated the freewheeling is working when in nuetral, so I don't think its anything more than your idler pulley.
 

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The Magnificent
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Wombat, by treating our mowers like expensive sports cars, they live and work to the ripe old age of 40 or more years.

But, on to your problem, My recommendation is that you find an Illustrated Parts Breakdown, along with a manual. This will help you verify what goes where and how to adjust everything.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Wombat, by treating our mowers like expensive sports cars, they live and work to the ripe old age of 40 or more years.
Have to admit I agree with the philosophy of that - my mower is 10 years old and it looks like the PO drove it off a cliff :thSick:
 

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Wombat,
I looked through my "archives" and check on line for a parts breakdown but show nothing. Post a pic and I should be able to get you a useable schematic.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I'll get some pictures Saturday - I work 3 days a week in Brisbane and normally have 4 day weekends at home only I have some things to attend to tomorrow and won't be home till after dark.
David L
 

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OK, I see you found a parts schematic as posted in the other thread.

http://www.mytractorforum.com/showpost.php?p=1370691&postcount=7

The difference between the A and B is probably just region. A typical Murray model number will look like this....

12345xAA

The 12345 will be the actual model number. The xAA will be the Retailer who the tractor was sold too.

It is common to see various different numbers for the exact same machine. For intance...

12345xAA
12345xAB
12345x94A
12345x92B

Would all be identical machines. Long story short, your tractor should match the A or B. It is also possible that B may signify a slight model change/update mid production year.

For more Murray id info, check my sticky at the top of the Murray forum.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I found the problem - not an idler bearing ( well they are all turning freely for now) but this was a little out of place .........



Jammed up the works it was - notice the first time it was hanging a bit and 'clicked' it back in place - second time it did it properly :banghead3
 

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The ol' hydro fan caught in the motion drive, bummer. All can be fixed though.
 

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and I like it.

You treat your mowers like some deluxe sports car with all the care and attention one would give a Lamborghini :thThumbsU

I just want to get mine to mow the grass :banghead3

( But I am not a total novice being in the middle of a total rebuild of a 1963 Morris Mini 850 ( Austin Mini (Cooper) to our American friends)

David L
As for treating my mower like a Lamborghini? Well yes I do, considering that Lamborghini builds tractors. Lamborghini was in the tractor business long before Enzo Ferrari screwed him on a clutch warranty and Lamborghini decided he could build a faster and more reliable automobile, if you can consider any Italian automobile reliable. Why would I ever want to pay that much for something that quite literally translated means "To Go Slowly".:bonk:

A big motor "Mini"? That ought to be a thrill to bop about town in.
 
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