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Hello there! I'm just an Ohio boy rebuilding a John Deere R72 rear- engine riding mower. I dropped the deck and lubed some stuff (not the drive belt...lol) and reinstalled the drive chain back onto the axle sprocket; the chain had come off. I retensioned it, and tried to drive it, and the clutch will not fully disengage. I notice with the gear in neutral (of course) that with the clutch all ther way depressed, the transmission drive pulley is still spinning, and the transmission shift lever doesn't want to shift gears. When the engine is shut off, the shifter works fine. I bought the manual from JD new, and it says nothing about a clutch adjustment. Is the brake supposed to immobilize the transmission pulley somehow? Thanks in advance for any help; I'm stumped! :banghead3
 

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Welcome, Gloughner. Glad you found the site. You'll get plenty of help around here with your project. I put a copy of this thread down in the John Deere forum where it may get noticed by more people that might be able to answer your question. Check in often and have fun. Lots to see and do around here.
 

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Well I have the S82 RER and the trans is imobilized when you push the brake down and clutch in. You may have the wrong belt on it if everything is still spinning when you have the clutch in. Try and find a belt number on what you have on it now. There is no cluch adjustment to the best of my knowledge. Pretty simple machines to work on. Let us know what you find out. Also check Keeping it Greens web site (top of page) and look at the exploded parts drawings for your machine for the belt numbers. Take care.. Mike
 

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Not sure where you are in the assembly process, as you said you removed the deck - did you put it back on, or is it still off.....If its still off and when you put the drive belt back on, did you put it on the correct motor pulley? There are 2 stacked pulleys on the motor shaft. The outer (bigger) one is further from the motor is for the deck. The smaller inner pulley is for the drive belt
 

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Thanks all for the encouragement! And Bosox, you're right: the mower deck probably has a gizmo which brakes the transmission belt after detendioning it with the clutch. I will check this. (BTW, the belts and trans worked fine before the chain came off and I removed the mower deck.) I am going to hope that the (correct) mower deck reinstallation will help. Thanks, and i will post the results here!
- that stumped Ohio boy... lol :thanku:
 

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Hi all---

Well, I reassembled the mower deck to the mower frame, fussed with the oil and grease a bit, and VOILA! It runs! And cuts! Something about the mower deck allows the transmission to be shifted properly; I step on the clutch and brake, and the shifter works fine.
Now, for my PET PEEVE of the job; in the operator's manual, they blithely tell you to "carefully grasp the mower deck counterbalance spring with a locking pliers and carefully fit the end into the hole provided" or some such thing. PROBLEM: It is manifestly impossible! I am neither a rhinoceros nor Superman, and there is NO WAY that that spring is gonna get back into that hole... so I will make a turnbuckle arrangement to sanely and methodically install said spring...
Bosox and Harlan: Thanks! And I WON! It works! :drunkie:
All for now; I will keep you posted when I figure it out and also about the turnbuckle. That design engineer was having delusions that day...
 

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Hi all---

Well, I reassembled the mower deck to the mower frame, fussed with the oil and grease a bit, and VOILA! It runs! And cuts! Something about the mower deck allows the transmission to be shifted properly; I step on the clutch and brake, and the shifter works fine.
Now, for my PET PEEVE of the job; in the operator's manual, they blithely tell you to "carefully grasp the mower deck counterbalance spring with a locking pliers and carefully fit the end into the hole provided" or some such thing. PROBLEM: It is manifestly impossible! I am neither a rhinoceros nor Superman, and there is NO WAY that that spring is gonna get back into that hole... so I will make a turnbuckle arrangement to sanely and methodically install said spring...
Bosox and Harlan: Thanks! And I WON! It works! :drunkie:
All for now; I will keep you posted when I figure it out and also about the turnbuckle. That design engineer was having delusions that day...
I have an R70 and I know what you mean about that sping. Be carefull with that thing and take your time. Get some help with it and it will get in after several hundred tries.

Good Luck
 

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Well I have the S82 RER and the trans is imobilized when you push the brake down and clutch in. You may have the wrong belt on it if everything is still spinning when you have the clutch in. Try and find a belt number on what you have on it now. There is no cluch adjustment to the best of my knowledge. Pretty simple machines to work on. Let us know what you find out. Also check Keeping it Greens web site (top of page) and look at the exploded parts drawings for your machine for the belt numbers. Take care.. Mike
I just wanted to thank you for this information. I found this thread because the S82 mower I picked up had the same issue described above where the clutch wasn't fully disengaging the transmission and I had a hard time shifting gears when the mower was running. It turned out someone put the wrong drive belt on- it was both too thick and too short. If it helps anyone, I bought both an OEM M82167 belt as well as a Gates 2510 / 6851 / 4L510 (1/2" x 51") and confirmed that they are both identical and the new belt fixed the problem.
 

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I just wanted to thank you for this information. I found this thread because the S82 mower I picked up had the same issue described above where the clutch wasn't fully disengaging the transmission and I had a hard time shifting gears when the mower was running. It turned out someone put the wrong drive belt on- it was both too thick and too short. If it helps anyone, I bought both an OEM M82167 belt as well as a Gates 2510 / 6851 / 4L510 (1/2" x 51") and confirmed that they are both identical and the new belt fixed the problem.
I have learned over the years to ALWAYS use OE belts on JD's. Not only do they all seem to be odd ball sizes, but frankly the OE belts are cheaper then a lot of the aftermarket places.
 

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:MTF_wel: :wwp: :wwp:
 

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It seems OEM JD belts are becoming scarce for machines this old. The OEM JD belt I was able to get a hold of cost me $25, the Gates belt I got for $6 shipped on eBay. The only reason I sprung for the OEM JD belt was because it was enough work to change the belt that I wanted to 100% confirm it fixed the problem. I got the Gates belt because it was cheap enough and I could measure them both simultaneously, confirm they were identical, and now I have a backup belt on hand if I ever need it.
 

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Wow, that S82 is clean! Mine has seen better days but is still a good solid unit, and hopefully running again very soon. Thanks for the pics VS, and glad my old post helped get your machine sorted out. :fing32:
 

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Yeah it's really clean for it's age. Storytime!

11/27/2015 (Black Friday). There's an estate sale a few blocks away from my house, just past the border into the next town which is a bit more upscale. From the pictures posted online there's a few items I want to look at, this mower being one of them. I'm not one for fighting crowds or being an early riser on a day off, so I wander over a couple hours after the sale starts. I figured how many people will be going to an estate sale on Black Friday, anyway? Apparently, everyone and their brother! There's a lineup of people at least 75 deep- something I rarely see even upon the initial opening of a popular sale. It's a fairly nice day for the time of year, so I don't mind waiting. I learn from the others around me this sale is particularly popular, and has extended waits, because there was a large quantity of expensive jewelry for sale so the staff are more strictly limiting the number of people inside at any given time. I wait probably 30-40 minutes to get in. I look around and the few items I had been interested in had already been sold, except for the mower. It had a price tag of $75 on it, all 4 tires were dead flat, I figured flat tires were a sign the carb needed a rebuild at minimum and the battery was likely shot, plus it was basically buried under other items. It looked like it'd be a chore just to get it out of the garage. And the last thing I needed was another project. I decided to pass on it. For the rest of the day I wondered if I made a mistake to pass it up. I figured that was a sign I should go the next day, which is generally half price day, to see if it was still there.

Saturday, 11/28/2015. I wake up super early and arrive at the estate sale about 40 minutes before opening. Not only because I want to get there first, but also because I have a busy day planned and it was the only time I had available! There's about 5 people ahead of me. I come prepared with ramps and a small air compressor to inflate the tires, just in case. It's notably colder this day, so the wait is significantly less enjoyable. About 20 minutes before opening, staff start running in and out getting things from their vehicles to prepare for opening. A few others have joined the line behind me at this point. One of the staff asks if any of us are interested in anything in particular, so I ask if the mower is still available. He said yes, make us an offer on it. I said $50, he said sure! He'd check to see if he could assist me before the official opening. He comes out a few minutes later and said, did you want the bagger too? Because that was priced separately, and we can't do $50 for the mower and bagger. How about $75 for both? I was like ok, sure. He runs off again, and doesn't show up until just before they open. He tells me to meet him in the garage once they open and he'll write up a sales slip. There's notably less stuff in the garage this day, making getting the mower out much easier. I inform him I brought a compressor to inflate the tires so we could easily roll it out, so I pay for the mower, grab my compressor and inflate the tires, and he helps me load it into my truck. I figure the main reason nobody picked up the mower the day prior was because winter was approaching, and few people want to buy something they won't use for months and needs work!

Early December, 2015. I feature the mower as part my Christmas display- one of the main reasons I bought it. I tried to source a "Nothing runs like a Deere" banner, but couldn't find one that didn't cost a small fortune (there was a nearly perfect one on eBay at the time, but it was $300). Even tried contacting JD directly on Facebook- they responded but said they couldn't help. Side note: the JD cart was another estate sale acquisition a couple months prior.

April/May, 2016. The repairs commence. As expected the carb was in rough shape, but repairable. The battery's cells were bone dry, it was a lost cause. Once I did get the mower running, I ran into the clutch/transmission issue caused by the incorrect drive belt. I've found trying to source parts for this mower is difficult due to its age. And trying to cross-reference a JD part number to even a B&S part number is frustrating. Thank goodness for the internet!
 

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Reviving this old thread from 2009, I bought my first RER (rear engine rider), my first riding mower, and my first John Deere product, all that at the same time yesterday. Proud owner of an old R72.

2470867


I'm a real newbie concerning lawn mechanic, but I'm eager to learn and I usually do it fast. I have a couple of questions about my R72 and I figure out I would reply to this to notify every people involved in this thread. Sorry in advance!

First of all, there is a small mechanisms on the left pedal. On my old Ariens, there was something similar and it was acting as a handbrake. Is it suppose to act the same way? Like you flip it to lock the brake pedal? If so, it seems the brake pedal doesn't go low enough so I can lock it using the mechanism. Anything I can do for this?

Second thing, the engagement for the speed a are a little harsh. Anything I can do to smooth this out? Like greasing something I don't know?

3rd, anyone know where I could find a repair manual for this RER? I know I can buy one online for around 100$ USD but I would like to find something free.

4th, the oil filling tube is getting out itself and oil is splashing everywhere. The old owner added a small bracket to hold it into place, but I would like to bring it back as close as I can to OEM. I will post a picture to show the backet later on, sorry I don't have it now!

5th and last thing, anything you would recommend me doing on it before using it? I guess changing oil, air filter, spark plug and gasoline may be good ideas? Anything else?

TIA guys!
 

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Second thing, the engagement for the speed a are a little harsh. Anything I can do to smooth this out? Like greasing something I don't know?
I know nothing about your tractor and have a hydro but...there was a thread discussing this issue (different tractor) a while back and the solution was to rub paraffin wax on the belt. The person that suggested it was discounted/ignored at first until the OP tried it. I couldn't find the thread but it should be out there someplace.
 

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Reviving this old thread from 2009, I bought my first RER (rear engine rider), my first riding mower, and my first John Deere product, all that at the same time yesterday. Proud owner of an old R72.

View attachment 2470867

I'm a real newbie concerning lawn mechanic, but I'm eager to learn and I usually do it fast. I have a couple of questions about my R72 and I figure out I would reply to this to notify every people involved in this thread. Sorry in advance!

First of all, there is a small mechanisms on the left pedal. On my old Ariens, there was something similar and it was acting as a handbrake. Is it suppose to act the same way? Like you flip it to lock the brake pedal? If so, it seems the brake pedal doesn't go low enough so I can lock it using the mechanism. Anything I can do for this?

Second thing, the engagement for the speed a are a little harsh. Anything I can do to smooth this out? Like greasing something I don't know?

3rd, anyone know where I could find a repair manual for this RER? I know I can buy one online for around 100$ USD but I would like to find something free.

4th, the oil filling tube is getting out itself and oil is splashing everywhere. The old owner added a small bracket to hold it into place, but I would like to bring it back as close as I can to OEM. I will post a picture to show the backet later on, sorry I don't have it now!

5th and last thing, anything you would recommend me doing on it before using it? I guess changing oil, air filter, spark plug and gasoline may be good ideas? Anything else?

TIA guys!
That Little Mechanism is Your Brake Lock
I had a Used JD R70 rider In the 1980's My Only Lemon Hated that thing. It Plowed snow well In the winter with the 38inch front Blade But I swear ever other week In the summer I would drop the drive sprocket as it is only held In the frame by Hammering the sprocket into place. A Bolt thru the Frame and drive sprocket arm would have probably solved the issue.

When the drive sprocket wasn't falling out it was a Great Little Machine They were Made Between 1984 & 1986 R70 was Just a Manual Pull start version where You Have electric start with the R72. The Other Model In the series was a R92 with a 11Hp engine and electric start The R were the Deere's Price Point Machines at the Time the S80 , S82 & S92 were Deere's Premium Line or Rear engine rider at the Time they had a enclosed chain & sprocket I wish I had found One at the time.

Changing the oil, air filter, spark plug and gasoline would be a good starting point Then Probably change the deck Belt and 30inch Mowing Blade and Maybe the Machine drive Belt The Operators Manual will help You with That. A can Of spray Lube wouldn't Hurt either to lube the drive chain (y)
 
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