My Tractor Forum banner

1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Minding my P's & Q's
Joined
·
1,941 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Repairing my snowblower. Craftsman model 842.242560
Has a bearing and carrier under the frame on a power transfer shaft. Has a 15 tooth sprocket on the end to transfer power to the chain drive.

One of the problems was the locking part of the bearing had broken. So shaft was turning in the bearing and wore the shaft down.
Have new bearing on the way in. Will have shaft built back up to 7/8"

Yesterday I was doing some measuring and noticed the outer part of the bearing was not held tight enough in the carrier.
I was able to spin the whole bearing by hand while in the carrier. Had the carrier bolted in place so it should have been tight enough to keep the bearing from spinning. But outer part of bearing would spin in the carrier. Outer part of that bearing has a blue tinge to the metal where it got hot.

Took it apart, removed the bearing and put another old bearing I had kept around in it's place. That bearing also spun in the carrier when turning by hand.

Any ideas on how to repair or mod the carrier so the carrier will hold the bearing and not let it spin?
I had thought to put a few dribbles of weld on the inside of both upper and lower parts.

Could the carrier just need to be bent a certain way to tighten it?

Any other thoughts?

Bearing and carrier DSCF6168.JPG Broken bearing DSCF6162.JPG Broken bearing DSCF6163.JPG
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,471 Posts
That's the area that I would attempt to tighten it up as well. It looks like the gap on the left is greater than the gap on the right. If you could rebend the upper and lower halves of the carrier on the left so that they match the curves on the right then that should tighten it up.
 

·
15,000 +posts!
Joined
·
19,699 Posts
Maybe a piece of rubber like inner tube would work to help pinch it tighter--or some shim stock..
Locktite makes a bearing & stud retaining compound but its designed more for press fit bearings that have spun in the housing like on a differential ,not sure if it would help much on a pillow block like that type though..maybe you could replace it with a cast iron pillow block ?..
 

·
Minding my P's & Q's
Joined
·
1,941 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
PA318guy
Nouveau Redneck
Looked it over again yesterday. Pretty easy to bend the metal.
At first I was able to push the bearing right out of the holder.

Used my old leg vise to squeeze the base part together, then a screw driver to bend legs back down flat. Bottom of carrier sits 1/16" lower now. And the center bottom rests on the frame as it use to. Can see rub marks on the frame where it sits.

Had to work a bit with the larger half to get it right.
Used a large channel lock pliers to squeeze bottom legs together.
Pictures tell the story.

I think the bend in the legs will flatten out when I bolt it in place.
The bearing is very tight in the carrier now.

Base mounting holes are slotted left to right so I will have adjustment that way if needed.
Will need to measure the up and down distance on shaft to be sure that is aligned at both ends. Add a shim if needed.

Can only add 10 pictures, so will do a 2nd post for the last 2.

Seems it is harder to get pictures in correct order on the new format.

001 Bearing support DSCF6188.JPG 002 Bearing support DSCF6189.JPG 003 Bearing support DSCF6190.JPG 004 Bearing support DSCF6191.JPG 005 Bearing support DSCF6192.JPG 006 Bearing support DSCF6193.JPG 007 Bearing support DSCF6194.JPG 008 Bearing support DSCF6195.JPG 009 Bearing support DSCF6196.JPG 010 Bearing support DSCF6197.JPG
 

·
Minding my P's & Q's
Joined
·
1,941 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Adding last 2 pictures

I did order 2 new bearings with new carriers a few days ago. Waiting for them to get here. So if it seems off, can use one of the new carriers if they seem to fit better.
But would rather repair the old one and have a new one for a spare.

Not sure why I did not think of bending it at first. I was thinking the metal was stretched and bending would not work well. Live and learn.


011 Bearing support DSCF6198.JPG 012 Bearing support DSCF6199.JPG
 

·
Minding my P's & Q's
Joined
·
1,941 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
New bearings came in with carriers. Decided to go with new one. Will keep old one in the spares for the snowblower box.
New one went in OK today.

020 New Bearing support DSCF6201.JPG



Shaft Bearing DSCF6269.JPG
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,471 Posts
The new carrier looks like a better design the way the edge wraps around the edge of the bearing. If the old one was originally like that then you have a lot more bending to do to get it right. If it never had that lip then it was an inferior design.
 

·
Minding my P's & Q's
Joined
·
1,941 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
The old one does have curvature built in to hold the curved edge of the bearing.
The new one has more curvature built in.
I also think the new one is a better design. Will be a bit harder to bend. And will grip the bearing better to keep it from spinning in the holder. Metal thickness is less on the new one. But I like how they made the bends on the edges. Should be over all stronger.
Both are built to allow the bearing to be a small amount off kilter when in place.

I did have to add a spacer under it to bring it, and the shaft, into line with the gear box to the rear.
Not sure if the new carrier sits a bit lower, or because the frame was bent. Old one was bent out of original shape so much I did not feel I could rely on it to measure the difference, if any, so I did not bother to.
 

·
Minding my P's & Q's
Joined
·
1,941 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Added bonus to this carrier is the 2 pieces snap together around the bearing.
Base has dimples, larger half has holes the dimples sit in.
Going to make it much easier when working blind underneath the frame. No more trying to hold the 3 pieces in place while trying to get the washer on, and get the nut started. All without being able to see what I am doing.

My Chief Security Officer was inspecting my work.


Carrier dimple DSCF6337.JPG
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top