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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,

I am in the process of moving into a new house and finally have the 318 I got over the summer. Included in the laundry list of things i have to do is to perform some baseline maintenance on the 318.

I have looked at the Baseline Maintenance Checklist and while I would like to perform all the tasks there, I just dont have the time nor the knowledge at this point. That said, I DO want to do a few maintenance items, but need to stick to the most important.

SOOO, what say you? What are the most important (and hopefully easy to do for a COMPLETE newbie) tasks that I should complete. I have a 318, 54 2 way blade, and 49 blower.

Thank you all!

Oh, and I picked up a model 80 cart a few weeks ago. I know this is probably a silly question, but how do I hook up the 80 to the 318, their hitches dont seem to be compatable.

Finally, is this blade ready to go? Can you tell from the picture?



 

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Certified Master Tinkerer
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The blade looks pretty good but I'll leave the final determination to the experts since I'm a knuckle dragging 200 series owner. You'll need an adapter for the sleeve hitch that has a flange to mate up to the Model 80. For maintenance I'd start with the basics of plugs, oil and filters.
 

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Ok, easy things first. The 318 has a receiver hitch bolted onto the drawbar. Just remove that and you can pin the Model 80 cart right on. EDIT - The receiver hitch looks like it might be welded on, so you'll need an adapter.

For maintenance, change the oil and oil filter, air filter and prefilter.

Grease all the zerk fittings you can find.

At least check the level of the transmission fluid in the sight tube over the draw bar behind the right rear wheel (should be half way up the clear tube when cold). Top up if necessary. Eventually when you get ambitious you should change the transmission fluid and fliter.

Check the engine compartment and tins for grass and mouse activity. I found a whole ecosystem I had to clean out of mine.

Tough to tell much about your blade but you'll probably want to get the skid shoes for it. (about $34 last time I bought them from Deere)

I'm sure others will offer their suggestions soon!
 

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Don't forget to grease the joints on the driveshaft. They can be hard to spot. Where are you in Iowa?
 

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from the pic it looks like you are low on hydro fluid.Buy a new hitch off ebay or remove the welded on receiver from the one on the tractor. And check the tire presure.Its easier to remove the fender pan to get to the zerks on the drive shaft. remove the side panels and remove the tins from the motor and clean out all the grass and stuff of the fins on the motor. clean the battery terminals also. Take the belly screen off and clean that up too.
 

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The Magnificent
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I tried to write that checklist so that there are not really any specialized tools or skills needed. Also I assumed a person had the operator's and service manual. I feel like these two items are absolutely necessary for a person expecting to make 20+ year old gear work for them.

Which are the most important steps? It's hard to say. Let's say you skip the electrical checks then the tractor won't start when you need to be pushing snow. Those then become pretty important.
 

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It's not easy being green
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from the pic it looks like you are low on hydro fluid.Buy a new hitch off ebay or remove the welded on receiver from the one on the tractor. And check the tire presure.Its easier to remove the fender pan to get to the zerks on the drive shaft. remove the side panels and remove the tins from the motor and clean out all the grass and stuff of the fins on the motor. clean the battery terminals also. Take the belly screen off and clean that up too.
I know my eyes are getting bad, but how can you see from this slightly blurry picture the hydro fluid is low? That is one of my biggest pet peeves with cars, trucks, tractors; difficulty trying to check fluid in a less than translucent plastic reservoir.
 

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Actually, I believe it is glass if original. but how he can tell from that pic is amazing !!
And in this case 1/2 full or 1/2 empty ( in the sight glass) is okay.
 

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From that picture check tire preasure. The right rear looks low.
But seriously the blade looks fine but is missing the feet.
You could replace them or run it without them. Either way is fine.
Just get an adapter for the reciever hitch that is on tractor.
The reciever hitch will come in handy if you leave it on.
 

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Blade "from what we can see" looks like it's in reasonable shape with a good cutting edge. You will find if you run the maintenance chart you will likely be between $100 and $200 (the correct fluids and filters will be about $40 of that) for any maintenance necessary minus any tools you may not have. The tools should be standard hand tools with few "specialized" tools as D-Dogg said. Sounds like you did a good procurement there with everything you got. We're here to help, I would advise that you get a camera that can get better pictures as a picture is worth a 1000 words and that especially holds true for seeing problems on tractors.
 

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That pivot bolt is upside down the nut's (2) of them go on the top of the mount bracket < 3/4 x 5 1/2 >.If you go for what JD calls the runners the standard model # is M41657 about $14.00 each , they are about 1/4 thick , pin # M40569 and pin fastener # M40569 , or JD does make a heavy duty model # AM119321 with a very thick foot something like 3/4" for very heavy use they run about $ 47.50 each!!!
Don't for get about modifying the blade with a rubber edge , a very easy add on that will save any wear on the blade # AM31436 about $ 70.00 from JD or a TSC horse stall mat cut down to strips either way is easy to do .
 

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When you get a good camera..... Where are the pictures of the #80 cart !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks for your thoughts everyone. I just need to get started I think. I think the hydro fluid is low, so ill probably concentrate on changing the oil, cleaning behind the panels, and changing the oil.

as far as the camera, I have a,nice camera, these pics were just snapped quickly with the phone. I k.ow how everyone likes pics, ill be happy to oblige once things slow down a bit!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Ok, hydro fluid is indeed low. What type of fluid is this, suggestions? Also, where do i fill it at?

What type of oil should I use. It will be stored in a non heated garage and used during our cold Iowa winters.

Can someone tell me more about the rubber scrape bar for the blade, that sounds really interesting. Also, what are the shoes for the blade?
 

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The runners are basically L shaped and slid into the two pockets (and the foot goes towards the tractor ), you have one on each side of the back of the blade and are held in place by a pin that pass's through the pocket from the back though the runner and stops behind the blade a hair pin cotter pin then secures the pin . the runner has a number of holes to allow for height adjustment .
The rubber squeegee edge replaces the metal edge you have now , its held in place by the metal edge , it works just like a large rubber floor squeegee , cleaning the driveway without metal contact , makes for a smooth and quiet plowing system .

I believe the motor oil will be 10w-30 . I m not sure if your machine would use JD Lo-Viscosity HyGard or how to do the drain and fill for the trans fluid so one of the others will have to fill in those details.
 
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