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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So, we were talking about this the other day here--> Wheel weights

Since I put the front bucket on my 3240 it has lost a lot of traction and I knew I was gonna need to add some ballast. Probably has an extra 200lbs on the front end now. I've been buying plate weights when I find them cheap and ended up with ~600lbs of iron ones. I have some 1/4"x2 iron and various scrap lying around so decided to whip up some barbell wheel weight adapters today. 10lb weights fit inside the wheels and I'll mount (1) 7.5 first so it will clear the bolts, (2) 10s and (2) 25s per side.

Drilled a 3/4" hole in and cut out 2 of the 25s for my valve stems. I hole sawed a 1 1/8" hole thru my 1/4" adapter plate "X" to get the pipe all the way thru it and weld on both sides. Had some big pipe and welded it in the middle to keep the lug nuts from getting torn up. The big pipe sits on the hub center--not the wheel.

Carriage bolts will first bolt to the wheels then the adapters will slip over them and get bolted so everything is level.

The pipe will get a 3/4"X6" nut welded inside it w/ the head cut off and a nut will hold the weights in place. All will be painted CC beige to match the wheels. Hope this works. fingers crossed
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Discussion Starter #2
Here's what I did today. Ground the 7.5lb first weight so it would sit over the weld at the base of the pipe.

Cut the heads off 6"X3/4" bolts and welded them inside the pipes which were cut 1/4" lower than the top plates to allow for compression of the plates with the outer nut which is 1 1/8" OD.

The nut fits inside the inner cylinder of a paint can lid which is my center cap. Did some tractor work and the plates did not rotate on the wheels so my valvestems are safe.
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Discussion Starter #4
I'm glad that you were able to recreate some of it...you did nice job, it looks great....ope it works as well as it looks 👍
Thanks Mark. It definitely made a huge difference today. Got some grip now.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I didn't realize what a machine that is...how much does that tractor weigh...any idea?...it looks quite stout, but don't overwork it
It weighs 800 lbs w/o the deck and no accessories. The front hitch, bucket and hydraulic cylinders add ~200lbs. The box blade is 100lbs and has pipes welded to it to accept plate weights. Currently my small rear hitch cylinder will only lift a total of 180lbs so I hang 70lbs of plates on the box blade. Rear hitch assembly weighs at least 30lbs. Added another 1.5 gallons of hydro fluid to fill all the hoses and cylinders. And, 160lbs of wheel weights and adapters.

So, hmm, add...1,2,3...take off my shoes...Looks like ~1400lbs or so.
 

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Awesome job. Did you consider trying to make the wheel lugs accessible with the wheel weight mount installed (so you can install/remove the wheels without having to take the weight mount off first?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Awesome job. Did you consider trying to make the wheel lugs accessible with the wheel weight mount installed (so you can install/remove the wheels without having to take the weight mount off first?
The factory square holes in the wheels for weights are in alignment with the lug nuts. To do that you'd have to do a single disk plate and drill big holes in it for lug nut access. I'd fear weakening my 2" wide plates too much to do that as you'd need ~1.5" holes to clear a socket.

I actually had to take my L rear wheel off today as I let the tires get too low on air pressure and one unseated the bead when I was digging. Just had to take off the additional 4 lock nuts holding on the adapter plate. You have to take the weight plates off anyways so it's not exactly a NASCAR pit stop speed affair.
 

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It looks like it's a hassle to get it off while installed on the tractor... Probably won't be too many times before you start thinking more about making it so they don't have to come off to get the wheel off the tractor.

Actually, I looked a little closer at how you did it, and realized you just need to ratchet off the nuts from the front, you don't need to reach around behind the wheel to get a wrench back there, or even hold the carriage bolt in place. So, it's a much smaller hassle than I thought it was...

Carry on.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
You really did a great job fabricating those wheel weights and the FEL-plow.
Thanks. It's finally coming together.
Actually, I looked a little closer at how you did it, and realized you just need to ratchet off the nuts from the front, you don't need to reach around behind the wheel to get a wrench back there, or even hold the carriage bolt in place.
Yep. Carriage bolts are captured and the nuts ensure that the X-brace sits level on the wheel.

I've never put regular wheelweights on GT wheels before. Do they just pop off with a quick release or something?
 

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As designed, the two sets of factory wheel weights I have, Massy and Bolens are mounted with the carriage bolts through the wheel so the weights must be removed before removing the wheels. No big deal.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Really turned out nice. Great idea
Thanks man. Made a huge traction difference. I was spinning out everytime I tried to do anything with the bucket. Now she'll get after it.
 

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Wow. Those very well made. Good job!!!

Sent from my LG-LS993 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #16

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Extremely well thought out, Steve!!!

How are the paint can hubcaps held in place?

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Extremely well thought out, Steve!!!

How are the paint can hubcaps held in place?

Mike
Thanks. The little inner ring inside the lid fits snugly on the nut. The outside of the lid needs to be cut down ~3/4" so it can reach the nut. I cut it with a cut off wheel on my Dremel.

I made a thread about it awhile back when I did this for my XT3.
 

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Nice!
 
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