[Mikey4]

The video is for the sound. I was turning the key twice and all I got was the noise. The tractor started yesterday and again earlier today. And then this. I thought it might be the battery (it was pretty old). I put in one that is 2 years old and pretty well charged. Still no love. Just the clicking.

I am thinking this is the solenoid. I know I have one someplace in the mess I laughingly refer to as my garage but couldn't find it. Before I go get another one, is that what this is/could be?

 

[WH401]

Typically that's what you get when the battery isn't providing enough power. I would check and clean all connections going to the starter, and make sure the battery is 100% charged. You might also try jumping the two large terminals on the starter solenoid together, and see if it will turn over and start.

Rick


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[Mikey4]

Typically that's what you get when the battery isn't providing enough power. I would check and clean all connections going to the starter, and make sure the battery is 100% charged. You might also try jumping the two large terminals on the starter solenoid together, and see if it will turn over and start.

Rick


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I have a charger on it and will let it go all night at 4 amps. I actually did jump the solenoid and got a faint spark, not a big jolt. However, when I jumped it off another tractor it made no difference. Same clicking.

I'll try the terminal on the starter tomorrow. I know the battery terminals are clean because I changed the battery today.

 

[arcam8123]

I've seen bad solenoid grounds and bad key switches do that. Charge over night, try it in the morning.

 

[gravely1964]

I've seen bad solenoid grounds and bad key switches do that. Charge over night, try it in the morning.

:ditto: I was gonna say bad ground if jumping both large terminals does nothing

 

[Richard-tx]

Did you properly clean the battery terminals? What usually happens to them is that the lead oxidizes creating lead oxide which is a pretty good insulator. Take a pen knife and scrape the lead oxide from the ID of the battery cable terminals. You know when you have scraped through the oxide when the metal is shiny. Lead oxide is dull, hard and a bit gritty. Clean lead is soft and shiny. Do that right and your problems will be over.

Don't bother with the wire brush cleaning tools. A wire brush is useless.

 

[SLGRAFTON]

Just went thru this on my 16G. Sometimes slow to crank, sometimes needs a jump. Finally would not start. Was going to be a winter project but needed to mow 2 more times. Cleaned and inspected cables and grounds. Maybe a little better. replaced key switch. No difference.Replaced starter. Maybe a little better. Replaced the cheapest item (solenoid). Starts and runs like a champ. When in doubt, fire the parts cannon at it.

 

[WH401]

I have a charger on it and will let it go all night at 4 amps. I actually did jump the solenoid and got a faint spark, not a big jolt. However, when I jumped it off another tractor it made no difference. Same clicking.



I'll try the terminal on the starter tomorrow. I know the battery terminals are clean because I changed the battery today.

In that case, I would agree with the others, bad connection somewhere.

Rick


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[Richard-tx]

Just went thru this on my 16G. Sometimes slow to crank, sometimes needs a jump. Finally would not start. Was going to be a winter project but needed to mow 2 more times. Cleaned and inspected cables and grounds. Maybe a little better. replaced key switch. No difference.Replaced starter. Maybe a little better. Replaced the cheapest item (solenoid). Starts and runs like a champ. When in doubt, fire the parts cannon at it.

But did you clean the terminals on the cables? Failing that, you may have a bad ground or other similar issue. If all else fails, get the voltmeter out and find out where you have the largest IR drop.

 

[beaner2u]

I agree with all of the above. But after you have cleaned all connections, and replaced the ignition switch, there is still one that you cannot visually inspect, the contacts inside the soleniod.

It's kinda like the contacts inside the old Gravely starter switch, they can become fouled and then no longer pass sufficient starting current. How do they become fouled? Maybe because another series connection corroded first, lowering the current capacity and causing the starter soleniod to spark/burn itself into oblivion.

Roger,

 

[Mikey4]

Thanks everyone for your replies and suggestions, particularly about bad connections. As is so common, the simplest malady is the one to look for first.

A bad connection was the culprit. For specific diagnosis, I have to hand it to the young man from Dallas, Richard. It was the battery cable to positive battery post. If you look at the wrench and the post on the left you will see some white goo. That had formed on the cable end. A solution of baking soda and water did away with that in short order. It looked like a Fizzies tablet!

After that, a quick reaming of both cable ends, a quick scraping of the posts, was done with my trusty old battery post dressing tool. I also undid the cable connections at the solenoid and at the starter but those connections were all clean as a whistle. Still shiny, actually.

 

[arcam8123]

Good post! Mikey and Richard, you've inspired me. I can't tell you how much time I spend trying to keep battery terminals clean. I pitched my battery bushes because I'm feeling that they are only a quick fix. A month later I'm doing it again.

I just ordered one of those scraper tools. I'll give that a shot. Smooth metal surface to smooth metal surface equals less open area for oxidation. Brushed metal to brushed metal equals lots of area for oxidation.

 

[Mikey4]

Good post! Mikey and Richard, you've inspired me. I can't tell you how much time I spend trying to keep battery terminals clean. I pitched my battery bushes because I'm feeling that they are only a quick fix. A month later I'm doing it again.

I just ordered one of those scraper tools. I'll give that a shot. Smooth metal surface to smooth metal surface equals less open area for oxidation. Brushed metal to brushed metal equals lots of area for oxidation.

Ron, life is nothing if not a series of compromises. Yes, this tool does a great job of creating new, smooth contact surfaces. The downside is that it reduces the post diameter and increases the cable diameter. At some point, things don't fit.

The good part is the contact lasts a while. I'd actually forgotten about this tool. I used it on my (now long gone) sports cars that sat for extended periods without being started. I also used some sort of jelly (dielectric (?) grease, really) to seal the terminal from the air.

 

[arcam8123]

Yes, that is true, so you don't want to use it too often.

I'm looking at which tractors I can convert to bolt type garden batteries. Good batteries are hitting the $100 mark and the big batteries are way over kill for these tractors. No big deal unless you're running a fleet, then it gets expensive.

 

[Mikey4]

Yes, that is true, so you don't want to use it too often.

I'm looking at which tractors I can convert to bolt type garden batteries. Good batteries are hitting the $100 mark and the big batteries are way over kill for these tractors. No big deal unless you're running a fleet, then it gets expensive.

Hmmm . . . . . . and even when a garden tractor battery won't cut it, maybe at least use bolt on side terminal GM batteries?

 

[WH401]

Best thing I have found to prevent corrosion is those cheap red/green felt washer. I have them on everything and only have problems with corrosion when the battery actually gets to the point of failure.

As far as battery pricing, I've been buy them through AdvanceAutoParts online for the last year. Why? Online coupons that knock $40 off a $120-$130 battery with a 3 year replacement warranty. They typically always have some sort of 25-30% off, or $40 off coupon for orders over $100. Just choose to pickup in store when buying online. When its all said and done the battery ends up being around $85, give or take, with a 3 year free replacement warranty. The size I've found the best is 96r-3. It's small and wide enough to fit inside the battery tray on riders with bolt on hoods, its one of the lowest priced for a 3 year free replacement warranty, while still having about 600 CCA.

Rick


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[arcam8123]

Except for a L/C model, there aren't any engines that Gravely ever used that can't be started with a LG battery. I will admit, in winter, I can see the bigger batteries could be safer.

 

[gravely1964]

Except for a L/C model, there aren't any engines that Gravely ever used that can't be started with a LG battery. I will admit, in winter, I can see the bigger batteries could be safer.

Thats all I use. And yes small fortune in battery's you ain't kidding!

I've been takeing some battery's at work in the junk pile that show promise and filling and rechargeing them. Hey if I get a year or 2 out of a already junk battery im ok with that.

Saying that I do need to buy a bunch of batterys. I blew up one from 2012. My newest one I had that I remembered buying new. Truck needs a battery for winter :hide: Battery man is gonna make out on me :hide:

 

[PA RedRider]

I haven't had good life from the Autocraft/Advance Auto batteries that I have bought in the past. Nowadays I only buy EverStart (WalMart brand), despite the fact you can't get the 26R's with the side/bottom flanges anymore for the riders. I buy Dekka L&G batteries for the Pro8 and recently an Interstate 22F with side/bottom flanges (one of the last remaining brands to still do these) for one of my riders. The Interstate will blow the heck out of your battery budget.

OTC makes a 3-way battery terminal reamer and a puller both.

I've often wondered if those red/green felt washers had any benefit. Never used them though.

For this winter I'm actually considering pulling all my of Gravely batteries but one, placing them in a heated garage and putting them on a tender all winter.

 

[arcam8123]

I haven't had good life from the Autocraft/Advance Auto batteries that I have bought in the past. Nowadays I only buy EverStart (WalMart brand), despite the fact you can't get the 26R's with the side/bottom flanges anymore for the riders. I buy Dekka L&G batteries for the Pro8 and recently an Interstate 22F with side/bottom flanges (one of the last remaining brands to still do these) for one of my riders. The Interstate will blow the heck out of your battery budget.

OTC makes a 3-way battery terminal reamer and a puller both.

I've often wondered if those red/green felt washers had any benefit. Never used them though.

For this winter I'm actually considering pulling all my of Gravely batteries but one, placing them in a heated garage and putting them on a tender all winter.

I've had very good luck with the Ever Start batteries. They are made by Johnson Controls battery division.

I ordered one of the OTC reamers. I like their tools. I also ordered some of the felt pads soaked in acid neutralizer. I'll let you know how they work.

I know CanadianGraveyNut pulls all of his batteries for the winter. I keep meaning to do it, but I have no tract of time.