Could be a plugged carb too. Pull the fuel line off the carb, crank the engine over and see if you get any fuel flow. Be sure you put the fuel line in a container to catch any fuel that gets pumped out. 
Bad Fuel Pump - Kawasaki FC540V ???
My GT 275 has been running fine until recently. The first sign of trouble was after increasing the throttle from idle to higher RPM the engine stumbled, back fired, and stalled. Once restarted, the engine seemed fine. Today, the same issues occurred, except worse. The engine finally would not restart, and I would get back fires when trying.
The fuel filter looks nearly empty, so I am guessing the issue is fuel related.
The tank is at the 1/4 level, so I am not out of fuel.
Does this sound like a failed fuel pump? If so, how easy are these to replace (and where are they).
Regards, John
The fuel filter looks nearly empty, so I am guessing the issue is fuel related.
The tank is at the 1/4 level, so I am not out of fuel.
Does this sound like a failed fuel pump? If so, how easy are these to replace (and where are they).
Regards, John
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You didn't exactly state it, but this backfiring occurs only when the machine is hot right? If yes, then I'd suspect the coil.
This is my guess too. I dont think an engine that is not getting fuel would backfire. Could be the ignition module as well. Although when my ignition module went bad the tractor was just dead and wouldnt start at all. Easiest thing to check is the fuel though so check that first and get back to us.You didn't exactly state it, but this backfiring occurs only when the machine is hot right? If yes, then I'd suspect the coil.
An empty fuel filter is not a sure fire way to know you have fuel problems. They can look empty even when fuel is flowing.
If you replace it, Briggs part number 808656 will work.
Both times when I had issues the engine was hot, or at least not cold. I will try again today.You didn't exactly state it, but this backfiring occurs only when the machine is hot right? If yes, then I'd suspect the coil.
Is that the part number for the fuel pump or the coil?If you replace it, Briggs part number 808656 will work.
Most of the time a fuel filter won't be full espically if it is a big one,my F525 never has more than 1/8 fuel in it and it runs wide open while mowing.
Fuel pump, sorry.Is that the part number for the fuel pump or the coil?
Highly doubt fuel pump. but if it is I would use Kawasaki #'s for replacement.
Just did on the LX188
Just did on the LX188
sounds like the coil, or the igniter.
It would not fire at all tonight. After cranking for a bit, it smelled flooded. I pulled the plug, and it was wet.
I will replace the plug and if that does not work, I will order a new coil.
I will replace the plug and if that does not work, I will order a new coil.
I looked all over JDParts for an igniter on that motor/tractor combo and it doesn't list one. The coil is motor spec number dependent;sounds like the coil, or the igniter.
AM109258 for (FC540V-DS00, ES00, FS00, AS15)
AM121810 for (FC540V-GS00, HS00, JS00 , KS00, DS15, ES15, FS15)
Yep, that's the part I replaced when my 265 died. I tested mine and it was way out of spec.I looked all over JDParts for an igniter on that motor/tractor combo and it doesn't list one. The coil is motor spec number dependent;
AM109258 for (FC540V-DS00, ES00, FS00, AS15)
AM121810 for (FC540V-GS00, HS00, JS00 , KS00, DS15, ES15, FS15)
I guess ignition module = coil = igniter.
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As far as the pump goes, the OEM Deere pump is a Briggs 808656 with Deere's number on it.
Correction, a wiser man than I told me the part number for the correct pump is AM109212.
Is replacing the coil a simple task? Is there any timing or calibration involved, or is it simply plug and play?
My FC540V must be different. It's powering a 185 hydro, and has a coil, and igniter. The 265 may be different.
Assuming you are talking about the ignition module (AM121810), the only thing I remember having to check is the gap between each arm and the flywheel. I don't have the number in front of me but I used a spark plug gap gauge to check mine. I would take off the ignition module (after checking the gap and recording it) and do the resistance check before buying a new one. They are not cheap ($90) and the test is free if you have a multimeter.Is replacing the coil a simple task? Is there any timing or calibration involved, or is it simply plug and play?
Update:
I replaced the spark plug hoping it could be something so simple. Well, the engine runs fine now. This could be a false positive. but for now, the tractor is running just fine.
This is simply more evidence that my "gut" is almost always wrong (I initially assumed it was the fuel pump for some reason). :banghead3
I replaced the spark plug hoping it could be something so simple. Well, the engine runs fine now. This could be a false positive. but for now, the tractor is running just fine.
This is simply more evidence that my "gut" is almost always wrong (I initially assumed it was the fuel pump for some reason). :banghead3
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