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I have been wanting to do this for a couple years, finally got it done today.
It ain't pretty, but it works good.
Had a gift card from Christmas for Tractor Supply, picked up 5 inch wheels and the bolts. Reused some lumber from my deck that I tore down and rebuilt two years ago, and some scraps I had from different jobs.
 

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Here is my take on the backhoe dolly. Got the basic idea from another post on this forum. I later added an additional 2x6 across the end with the bucket. As the boom cylinder leaks over time the bucket slid off the back of the dolly. The 2x6 and 4 screws seems to be enough support to keep the boom from moving.
 

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Still plays with tractors
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I have been wanting to do this for a couple years, finally got it done today.
It ain't pretty, but it works good.
Had a gift card from Christmas for Tractor Supply, picked up 5 inch wheels and the bolts. Reused some lumber from my deck that I tore down and rebuilt two years ago, and some scraps I had from different jobs.
Would you mind posting some basic length x width dimensions? I would really like to make one of these and this would be a good starting point.
 

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Well I got my backhoe dolly done last night. I built mine a little higher to save space and not stretch the hoe out so far. Garage is only so big. As a result, it has a footprint of about 3 feet by 4 feet roughly. Sits real sturdy on there and it rolls fairly well. Overall I'm very happy with the results. The picture isn't the best but I had already rolled it into the corner and put everything away for the night. I'll have to get better ones.

Question for you guys with the GC1710 or 1720. When you take the hoe off, where do you put the hydraulic lines? Mostly I just see them tied up behind the seat. I guess you just have to take care not to pinch them with the three point. I'm going to brush hog a little and run my tiller so I guess I need to secure them pretty well.

One other question concerning the shield over the PTO. I didn't look real close yet but I see two bolts holding it up in position. Does it hinge or something? It won't let the three point go down the whole way as it is. I imagine the answer to that is in my manual so I'll have to look that one up this evening.
 

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Nice project. Especially for those of us with limited space. Let me remind us all, including me, to beware of children playing around our implements and such. They can get into trouble like climbing on things. My implements are lined up behind the shop and I keep the grandkids away. Specially worried about v-rake and an aerator that must weigh around a thousand pounds.
 

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A Proud MF'er
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Interesting to see that most owners have nice concrete floors to roll on, thus the solid casters. I want to build a dolly but as my tractor shed has a gravel floor, I'll need air-filled tires on my casters. That means the dolly deck will be 9-10 inches off the ground, which is the just below the mounted height of the backhoe.

In your calculations while designing the dolly, did you see any limitations to making the dolly deck that high? I know your casters made that a non-issue, but just wondering if I should consider the dolly height before spending 1-200 on materials.
 

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The only limitation for height is getting the hoe onto the dolly. The floor of my implement shed is over 10" above ground level and I have a pair of 2x10s to drive the back wheels of the tractor on to clear the floor with the bottom of the hoe.

To simplify, if you can't lower the dolly, raise the tractor. There's no restriction if the tractor is tilted forward in relation to the hoe's resting position. It's a different story if it's tilted right or left.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
This winter I wanted more room in the garage, so I removed the wheels and used the wood frame outside....picked a small level spot and it worked good.
I hooked it up to the tractor a couple weeks ago, dug out a stump, found a different level spot and parked the BH in a different part of the yard.
Maybe someday I'll have a dedicated spot with a concrete pad.
 

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A Proud MF'er
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I'm trying to envision a realistic scenario for my use of a dolly. My tractor shed (pic below) was built before I got the 2410, and as a sign that this tractor was the right one for me, the full ROPS fits with 1" clearance! Thus the floor will never get higher and elevating the machine is possible but the shed is only 14' wide so the BH removal will likely happen at the door. Then I need to roll over the gravel to the storage spot near the back of the shed.

By my calculations, (extrapolated from numerous bits of weight data for the base machine and FEL) the BH weighs about 875lbs. I hope (4) 8" pneumatic casters rated at 1200 lbs total, will want to roll over the gravel with almost 900lb on board. I will need to store the BH/FEL every winter so something is getting built.

I'm thinking a 1-1/2" steel angle outer frame with 2x lumber as landing pads for bucket and base, and as caster mounts with a few anchor points each side for straps. Build scheduled for fall, or sooner.
 

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A Proud MF'er
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If only.. The gravel levels out a very rocky ground (think boulders) underneath. I'm more concerned about the force needed to move almost 900 lbs on any caster over gravel.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
how about laying down a sheet or two of 3/4 plywood, just for moving the dolly around on.
 

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I would say get the widest and largest wheel you can manage to make pushing a dolly over stone/gravel more doable. Bare in mind that you can use the stabilizers to lift the hoe up and possibly slide your dolly under. Good luck on finding an adequate solution

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
 

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Not shiny anymore.
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It would be a bit more work to design and build, but steerable wheels would probably do quite a bit better than casters with the inflatable tires.
 

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If only.. The gravel levels out a very rocky ground (think boulders) underneath. I'm more concerned about the force needed to move almost 900 lbs on any caster over gravel.
Duh! Why do you have a tractor?

I've pushed a 35" long travel trailer between trees with inches to spare on unimproved forest floor with a GT. By comparison, moving a dolly on level gravel with a SCUT should be a piece of cake.( My back says either to move such loads with the tractor, or leave them wherever they may be.)
 

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If you didn't have the need to steer it, I think I would go the route of building it down almost. Think of a spider. Where the backhoe sits would actually be lower than there the wheels mount. The wheels would be more outboard so you could almost put rear wheels from a GT on there. Should move pretty easy then and it looks like you have the width to work with. Not even sure it's feasible, just kicking around some crazy ideas in my head.
 

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A Proud MF'er
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Duh! Why do you have a tractor?
( My back says either to move such loads with the tractor, or leave them wherever they may be.)
Well you got me there... Yes, use the "force multiplier" that is the tractor... :duh:

I'm trying to work out where everything goes in the off-season, how it will get there, and leave me with a back to call my own.

With the snow, I will need to move to the snowblower and a weight box on the 3-pt with chains all around. 400'x 20' driveway with 8% grade in places...

I need to sell my Bolens (needs a bit of service first..) which will clear the shed of the 3 attachments for the Bolens, then map out the space for the BH and FEL. Create dollies for both, and plot the movements into storage. Two of the four casters will be swivels so with some push point (or better - a hitch-point) I should be able to maneuver the BH with the FEL or 3-pt before taking the FEL off and moving that dolly by hand - it's only about 325lb.

The drop-deck idea has merit too. The frame would be more complex and need to be stronger to compensate for the offset carry points.
 
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