does this help?
B7100 fan belt change
So I was out clearing the entrances to all the neighbors driveways after the plows had been by and noticed some antifreeze green in the snow. Thought it was just overflow but saw more a little later. Lifted the engine cover and saw that the fan wasn't turning, so gave the fan a push and it spun. Looked at the fan belt (original and this is a 1980) and most of the vee side was gone, more like just the top slapping around. Phoned my dealer and they had one in stock, so rushed off to town yesterday and picked it up. Got home around dark and decided I'd put it on today. Then the fun began.
I have owned this beauty since 96 and previously the elderly gent had it parked just above high tide....haven't found a nut or bolt that hasn't broken as of yet. Metric tap and dies are a regular procedure on any repair. Keep that in mind..... now.....
Replacing the fan belt should have been a walk in the park. As I have a front end loader mounted, I have to remove the engine cover to make it easier to access the fan area to remove the old belt. Figure I could lift it off the pulleys and slip on the new one roughly in the right position. Sprayed the heck out of the tensioner lead, hoping it will move when the time comes. Well even stripped down to a ribbon the old belt will not come off. There is a "flange PTO" mounted in the way and it all but rubs on the frame of the rad. Even if I get the old belt off with a little persuasion there is no way the new belt will slide into place.
It looks as if I'll have to remove the rad bolts at the bottom of the rad and hope there is enough upward movement that I can slide the old belt off and install the new without having to drain and disconnect the hoses...
OR
Remove the Flange PTO (3-12mm bolts). Just a PTO shaft with a back-plate mounted to the engine's fan drive pulley. Hopefully there is enough room to slide it down and away. Of course my Parts List publication doesn't show this "Flange PTO" so that's how I ended up joining this forum, as you have New parts list PDF's that shows the Flange...thank you to whomever posted them....brilliant.
Anyone have any experience with this task? If so is there an easier way? Does the Flange PTO need to stay there, I'm assuming not....but, never assume seems a logical bit of advice in this case...
After that is accomplished I'll still have to tackle the idler pulley assembly and most likely will remove it from the block (providing the bolts turn without breaking) and service it in my shop. I'll assume it'll be rusted tight, but you never know I might get lucky...
Thanks for any timely advice and I hope this will help someone else in this predicament...
I have owned this beauty since 96 and previously the elderly gent had it parked just above high tide....haven't found a nut or bolt that hasn't broken as of yet. Metric tap and dies are a regular procedure on any repair. Keep that in mind..... now.....
Replacing the fan belt should have been a walk in the park. As I have a front end loader mounted, I have to remove the engine cover to make it easier to access the fan area to remove the old belt. Figure I could lift it off the pulleys and slip on the new one roughly in the right position. Sprayed the heck out of the tensioner lead, hoping it will move when the time comes. Well even stripped down to a ribbon the old belt will not come off. There is a "flange PTO" mounted in the way and it all but rubs on the frame of the rad. Even if I get the old belt off with a little persuasion there is no way the new belt will slide into place.
It looks as if I'll have to remove the rad bolts at the bottom of the rad and hope there is enough upward movement that I can slide the old belt off and install the new without having to drain and disconnect the hoses...
OR
Remove the Flange PTO (3-12mm bolts). Just a PTO shaft with a back-plate mounted to the engine's fan drive pulley. Hopefully there is enough room to slide it down and away. Of course my Parts List publication doesn't show this "Flange PTO" so that's how I ended up joining this forum, as you have New parts list PDF's that shows the Flange...thank you to whomever posted them....brilliant.
Anyone have any experience with this task? If so is there an easier way? Does the Flange PTO need to stay there, I'm assuming not....but, never assume seems a logical bit of advice in this case...
After that is accomplished I'll still have to tackle the idler pulley assembly and most likely will remove it from the block (providing the bolts turn without breaking) and service it in my shop. I'll assume it'll be rusted tight, but you never know I might get lucky...
Thanks for any timely advice and I hope this will help someone else in this predicament...
1 - 3 of 3 Posts
It's 5:30 pm and I've just come back in. Got the job done between the snow, rain and freezing fingers. I've just watched the above vid and wish I'd seen it before I got started. It is totally correct. The job does require dislodging the radiator and sliding it slightly aside to get the belt in place.
I went the extra mile so here are some of my observations. Don't bother trying to take the PTO flange off as I think it looks to be pressed on the drive shaft, looks like a gear puller type of removal. I don't have the fan shroud or the plate shown in the vid. Years ago the shroud was rusted badly and fasteners all broke or sheared off in their respective holes. The various shrouds and engine cover need to come off and the radiator stabilizer bolts removed from the bottom. A real pain because I have cotter pins in my bolts, the ones that need to be removed, so a bit of a chore with needle nose pliers as I also have a front end loader frame to work under and around.
Once the bottom bolts were removed I gave the rad a slight lift and pulled it forward, leaving the hoses attached (top one was new, bottom one I replaced last year) I also moved the rad forward at the bottom to better get at the three bolts securing the belt tension plate which I removed to service. The three bolts and the adjusting bolt were all in great shape and re-installing went well. That step is not necessary, I was worried about corrosion and possibly stripping the threads.
With the rad moved forward with just a little pressure, the old belt came off and the new went on. I first slid the new belt over the plastic fan, got it onto the top pulley, then onto the bottom and finally over the tension pulley that I had fully retracted. There is a large nut on the front of the tension pulley and this needs to be backed off for the tension bolt to work. If you find the tension bolt backing out you have not eased the nut on the pulley front or nearly enough.
I then reassembled the radiator, sides and top. I adjusted the belt tension and started it up, all ran well.
Hope this helps others when it comes to this annoying, a bit complex, belt replacement. I'm going to look at grinding away on the front of the flange PTO, just enough to slip a belt by as I don't need it and nothing would then need to be taken apart. But that will have to wait until much warmer, drier weather.
I went the extra mile so here are some of my observations. Don't bother trying to take the PTO flange off as I think it looks to be pressed on the drive shaft, looks like a gear puller type of removal. I don't have the fan shroud or the plate shown in the vid. Years ago the shroud was rusted badly and fasteners all broke or sheared off in their respective holes. The various shrouds and engine cover need to come off and the radiator stabilizer bolts removed from the bottom. A real pain because I have cotter pins in my bolts, the ones that need to be removed, so a bit of a chore with needle nose pliers as I also have a front end loader frame to work under and around.
Once the bottom bolts were removed I gave the rad a slight lift and pulled it forward, leaving the hoses attached (top one was new, bottom one I replaced last year) I also moved the rad forward at the bottom to better get at the three bolts securing the belt tension plate which I removed to service. The three bolts and the adjusting bolt were all in great shape and re-installing went well. That step is not necessary, I was worried about corrosion and possibly stripping the threads.
With the rad moved forward with just a little pressure, the old belt came off and the new went on. I first slid the new belt over the plastic fan, got it onto the top pulley, then onto the bottom and finally over the tension pulley that I had fully retracted. There is a large nut on the front of the tension pulley and this needs to be backed off for the tension bolt to work. If you find the tension bolt backing out you have not eased the nut on the pulley front or nearly enough.
I then reassembled the radiator, sides and top. I adjusted the belt tension and started it up, all ran well.
Hope this helps others when it comes to this annoying, a bit complex, belt replacement. I'm going to look at grinding away on the front of the flange PTO, just enough to slip a belt by as I don't need it and nothing would then need to be taken apart. But that will have to wait until much warmer, drier weather.
1 - 3 of 3 Posts
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