There should be a wire from the key to the points, which grounds to kill.
How is the ignition switch supposed to be grounded? Via it's connection to the plate steel, or through a cable? If from a cable, through which terminal on the ignition?Make sure the ignition switch is well grounded and all of the connections are good.
The ignition switch used to work as intended, so I assume that it's the correct one. D is the white wire, and measuring the voltage with a battery hooked up and the ignition in the on position it read ~0.02 volts, so practically nothing. This was measured with the positive lead of my multimeter on cable 4's terminal (which leads back to pin D), and the negative lead on the batteries negative terminal.This begins to sound like a battery ignition setup, or it has the wrong ignition switch. I think that the terminals are B for battery, S for solenoid, and perhaps D is for 12 volts to the coil, or from the generator. Can you measure the voltage on pin D when the switch is on?
The engine dying when you pull cable 5 makes me think that you are cutting power to the ignition.
I could be all wrong on this; it would help a load if we had a schematic to look at.
The diagram I found here: http://www.simpletractors.com/images/wiring/wd_206.-212.jpg
shows that it has a mag and separate generator. It doesn't show the wiring that yours appears to have.
The HT lead runs from under the engine cowl/cover, indicating a magneto setup? How should these cables coming from under the cowl attach to the points? An image of a correctly installed setup would be great if you have one! And I'm not quite understanding how the ignition switch should be grounded, so any explanation on that would be welcomed.That looks like a mess. If it were a battery ignition your sparkplug wire would run to an exterior coil. And yes it could run off starter generator. If it is a standard points and magneto ignition just rewire it to match your wiring diagram. There should be one small wire coming out from under the cowl going to the points and another leading from the points back to a grounding ignition switch.
I just did a little googling, and it looks like it is an ignition module. A little further searching came up with this diagram which looks very similar to my setup (with the exception of the lack of ignition).shamrockjack said:If there is numbers on the junction box maybe some one here has the old diagram you need but Zippo takes them off and puts them back to stock I like electronic on my brigs engines but I have late modle engines made in the 90's no point boxes or places for them
I would think ignition switch is bad from old age and I alsu think your junction box is ignition module and you no longer use your points so without a Diagram breaking the 5 wire should work woth no trouble but thats just my idea not sure
I would think you could run a wire from the 5 post to a toogle switch on dash and back to cable and kil;l it from the seat don't be cheap run a good size wire
This sounds like a good plan. What is the best way to go about testing the continuity of the ignition switch? Just test between each terminal combination with the key in both 'off' and 'battery' positions?engine2quarters said:Since it worked before, and now it don't, and you suspect the ignition switch, why not check the continuity of the ignition switch in all its positions. You may have burned up a contact within the switch for some reason.
I'm heading in to town later today to pick up a switch and some wire. When I get back I'll test earthing the white cable, and if that works then I'll switch it, if it doesn't I'll switch cable 5.there should be a long wire on ignition switch that goes to points area that should be kill wire you can ju,p ground to it and see if it stops engine while running if all that works all you have to do to fiv in pit a push button on wire and the other side to ground and you are home free or replace switch