[60DRB]

Repositioning post per advice.

B&S 16.5 HP engine on a Sears/Craftsman LT1000 mower;

It's about 17 years old. The engine has never had any running issues before this.

Started occasionally bogging down and quitting. Usually it would restart after a couple hours rest. Then it just would not start (it would crank). The fuel tank, lines, filter and carb are all OK. Air filter is good, spark plugs are good. What am I missing, and how do I check?

 

[62 Springfield]

Does it have good compression and will it run better with the choke on or with a shot of carb cleaner?

 

[38racing]

Model number?

 

[Walt 2002]

Model number?

Yeah, could be a 31, 42 or even a 46 or Vanguard (?)

Walt Conner

 

[WNYTractorTinkerer]

Yeah, could be a 31, 42 or even a 46 or Vanguard (?)

Walt Conner

Looks like a possibility of a few engines in the thing.. HERE

 

[Walt 2002]

When I am asked an engine question, I expect the OP to identify his engine, I DO NOT do lookups.

Walt Conner

 

[60DRB]

Model number?

Very sorry, I should've included that information.

Sears Model# 917.271633
with 16.5 HP B&S engine, model# 310707, type 0137-E1, code 010316ZE

Update;

Compression seems OK.

I found the battery terminals very dirty with corrosion, cleaned them up and charged the battery (3 years old). Engine started and ran fine. I'm not sure if the battery is a part of the problem or not. The original "bog down and quit, then cranks but won't start" issue may still be there. The engine would operate normally for 10-20 minutes before stopping. Usually, after a long rest period it would restart, but not always. Is there an electrical issue possibility?

I recently found I could scavenge parts and bits from similar models sold by Poulon/Electrolux. PO16542LT (96012008700) - Poulan Lawn Tractor (2008-10)

 

[tomw0]

From a post somewhere on this site:

Husqvarna is its own company they make their own units they manufacture Craftsman, Poulan Pro, Poulan, McCulloch, Weed Eater, AYP, and Electrolux products
Roper, Sears, Rally and Wizard,McCulloch, Jonsered, Redmax, Partner

But, that was then. I *think* Electrolux now owns the brand, and the AYP plants.d

Sears sold AYP models up until a few years ago. Currently, 2015, they sell MTD products with Sears labeling. I do not guarantee this to be absolutely accurate as they may be selling other brands for different model levels.
If you need parts, take the Craftsman part number, from the owners manual, and search the web for AYP plus that part number. You do not have to go to Sears for parts.
tom

 

[bonusbuilt1950]

Sears has 2 levels of tractors now. If the model number begins with 917,XXXXXX, it's a AYP built unit. If it starts with 247.XXXXXX, it MTD. THe MTD ones are cheap looking and cheap quality. The AYP ones are not as good as they used to be, but are much better than MTD. Look under the seat for the model number before you buy.

 

[60DRB]

OK.
The transmission, deck, and front axle are all replaced/rebuilt. Ran The mower for a while (about ten minutes) and it started cutting out again. I dis-engaged the blades and it ran to the driveway. The fuel filter looked emty. I'm wondering if the line/filter are clogged even though when I run a rod through the line it seems clear... Or, is there a fuel pump (problem)?...

 

[MDStout]

When this starts to happen, Loosen the gas cap and see if it helps.
It sounds as if the fuel leaving the tank is creating a vacuum because the cap isn't venting correctly.
Clean the cap vent hole and I believe you problem will be solved.

 

[(username)]

When this starts to happen, Loosen the gas cap and see if it helps.
It sounds as if the fuel leaving the tank is creating a vacuum because the cap isn't venting correctly.
Clean the cap vent hole and I believe you problem will be solved.

:ditto:

 

[wwxx]

Try a proper valve job.

wwxx

 

[BOSOX]

If it's starving for fuel, as it seems to be, have a look in your tank with a flashlight and see if there is a thin film of varnish floating around the bottom. It'll look like thin plastic wrap floating around, and it'll make it's way over the tank outlet and clog it up. Once it sits a bit the gas will make it's way to the carb and it'll run for a while again. Had this happen to a customer's machine a few years.

 

[60DRB]

When this starts to happen, Loosen the gas cap and see if it helps.
It sounds as if the fuel leaving the tank is creating a vacuum because the cap isn't venting correctly.
Clean the cap vent hole and I believe you problem will be solved.

! That's the same thing a co-worker said this morning. Sounds too easy/logical to be true, but I'm hoping that will be the easy fix. Under a tornado watch & warning for the rest of today and this evening, and busy tomorrow PM, so when I can I'll try that. The fuel tank, cap and lines were replaced about 4 years ago, and the filter less than 3 months ago. I'll look more closely at the inside bottom of the tank too.

Also, I'm curious, what is the small item on the bottom (outside) of the carburetor bowl? It has two wires leading to/from it... Looks like some kind of solenoid, or...?

 

[BOSOX]

Also, I'm curious, what is the small item on the bottom (outside) of the carburetor bowl? It has two wires leading to/from it... Looks like some kind of solenoid, or...?

That's a solenoid to stop the fuel flow when you cut the engine off. It plugs the high speed jet in the carb, anti diesel solenoid is the official name, I think.

 

[Whirly]

That's a solenoid to stop the fuel flow when you cut the engine off. It plugs the high speed jet in the carb, anti diesel solenoid is the official name, I think.

try .. ABS solenoid (anti backfire solenoid )

 

[Whirly]

the B & S overhead valve engines have a tendency for the valves to get out of adjustment.. some even bend a pushrod.. a guy brought me one that had the valve rocker arm stud strip out of the head.. was no cure for this one.. it got scrapped..

there is several treads on here for info on how to readjust the valve lash..

 

[tomw0]

The solenoid on the bottom of the float bowl is the ABS, or Anti-BackFire Solenoid. It opens and closes to allow or block the flow of fuel from the tank. It is NOT a cutoff valve, but has a pintle valve that will spring closed when power is removed that pops into the bottom of the carb, blocking 90% or so of the fuel flow. It is to prevent the engine from continuing to pull fuel from the float bowl at shutoff, filling the muffler with mix that will go boom.
It can slow down fuel flow such that you cannot run the engine at more than an idle speed. You should be able to hear it click as the ignition switch is turned from OFF to ON. You can test with a 9-volt transistor or smoke alarm battery, and it should pull the pintle back into the housing when power is applied. They can get gummy as they are at the bottom, and have no way to drain old fuel that may have been left after the last season. Remove and clean, make sure it moves freely, and re-install.
tom

 

[Whirly]

The solenoid on the bottom of the float bowl is the ABS, or Anti-BackFire Solenoid. It opens and closes to allow or block the flow of fuel from the tank. It is NOT a cutoff valve, but has a pintle valve that will spring closed when power is removed that pops into the bottom of the carb, blocking 90% or so of the fuel flow. It is to prevent the engine from continuing to pull fuel from the float bowl at shutoff, filling the muffler with mix that will go boom.
It can slow down fuel flow such that you cannot run the engine at more than an idle speed. You should be able to hear it click as the ignition switch is turned from OFF to ON. You can test with a 9-volt transistor or smoke alarm battery, and it should pull the pintle back into the housing when power is applied. They can get gummy as they are at the bottom, and have no way to drain old fuel that may have been left after the last season. Remove and clean, make sure it moves freely, and re-install.
tom

u will have to use a thin wrench to remove the ABS unit from the carb.. I've seen a lot get damaged by usin a wrench that is too thick.. the people turn the coil part & not the proper flat sided part.. when this happens the coil ground get's destroyed internally..