[mxrdrver]

I have a Gt5000 with a Briggs 22HP engine (40H777-0241-E1 ) I need help troubleshooting. I went out this morning to mow the lawn and the thing fired right up. I was driving it up and around to get in position to start mowing and the engine died. I tried to start it up again and the solenoid just clicked. I took the housing off to get a better view of things and tried to start it again. The starter tried to engage but seemed not to have enough power to fully crank the engine. I also saw a little bit of smoke come from where the cable is connected to the starter. I think it's a bad starter, but not sure. Does anyone know how to test a starter to see if it's bad? I don't want to go out and buy a new one if it isn't bad.

 

[Small Fry]

Is the cable tight ?

 

[glenn27]

Is the cable tight ?

That's what I wa going to ask--"Smoke" usually indiucates bad connection or dead short.....
Start at the battery and remove and clean every connection--including both end of the grounds...

 

[Kbeitz]

When the engine died maybe it was telling you something... Something lost conection...

 

[Walt 2002]

About the only thing electrical that would cause this engine to die once started would be lose of current to the carb solenoid. That takes very little current so I am surprised there would be any smoke at the starter even. Checking cables and cable connections is a good idea though.

Most any B&S starter will fit that by the way if it comes to that, exception, check the type of starter gear, it may have to be changed.

Walt Conner

 

[mxrdrver]

I checked the cables, everything looks tight. The starter doesn't seem like it has enough muscle to crank the engine. When the pinion gear engages the flywheel, it turns about 1/4 turn, then pauses, then another 1/4 turn, then bogs down. I'll recheck all the cables and see what I can come up with. How common is it for these starters to go bad?

 

[1086]

If you had an amp gauge to place around the cable to the starter you would probably see about a 300 amp draw on the meter. That many amps will find the weakest connection and in this case, and most always, it is the one that smokes. Adjust the valves so the compression relief will work and the starter amp draw will drop back to near 100 amps where it should be.

 

[Walt 2002]

I have about 4 pages on adjusting the valves for your engine I can email you BUT I will be off my regular computer for a few days. I will try to access my email account tomorrow evening from another computer and will send the pages IF you like. Address below, put in proper format.

Walt Conner
wconner5 at verizon dot net

 

[mxrdrver]

I just adjusted the valves 2 weeks ago when I rebuilt the carburator. I put in new intake push rods because the old ones were bent and had fallen off their seat. I learned how to adjust the valves from a video on YouTube from a guy in Texas at Glen's Small engine repair. The Johnny Cash music was a nice touch.

 

[1086]

I just adjusted the valves 2 weeks ago when I rebuilt the carburator. I put in new intake push rods because the old ones were bent and had fallen off their seat. I learned how to adjust the valves from a video on YouTube from a guy in Texas at Glen's Small engine repair. The Johnny Cash music was a nice touch.

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I agree the Johnny Cash music was a nice touch but sometimes these Briggs engines don't recognize or appreciate him and that's a shame.

So it may be time to do another inspection under those valve covers. If the push rods look ok and in place check the valve lash on each cylinder using the same valve setting procedure but check it before any rocker lever nuts are loosened. That way you will know if they are out of adjustment and may not even need adjustment. The culprit could be something besides valves.

 

[modaone]

remove the cables and clean the metal on the ends (battery and starter) with fine sand paper then tighen them back on

 

[kcp877]

Probably not the problem but try this too, can you turn the engine by hand or is the compression too much? Pull the spark plugs and crank the engine, make sure you aren't flooded and see what flies out when no plugs are in it. I had one recently that I was chasing an electrical problem that turned out to be a float needle flooding the engine, stalling it and keeping it from restarting exactly as you are describing, the cylinder filled with enough gas to keep it from turning over. Looked like a starter/battery problem, but it was just flooding. I see you just rebuilt the carb, but its still worth a check.

 

[mxrdrver]

Well everyone, I think I've found the problem. But first I want to thank everyone for all the great advice. Without the help found on this forum I never would of been able to bring my GT5000 back to life. I knew nothing about small engines when I started this project 2 months ago. It's soooo much easier to drop the machine off at the local mower shop and have someone else do it. Anyway, I took off the starter and tore it apart. Look what I found. I think I need a new starter. Money I don't have, but the lawm must get mowed! Right?

 

[engine2quarters]

What did you do to that poor defenseless starter?

 

[Tractor-Holic]

Those permanent magnets shatter like glass easily,they are ceramic..this is why you do NOT whack a starter with a hammer on tractors,later model autos and trucks,and small winches!..doesn't take much of a tap to bust them up at all..

 

[Fcubman]

Looks like it cooked. Too long cranking times, too much load on it?