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Discussion Starter #1
That's right, it just doesn't do anything when you move the throttle to either side.
Yes, I put it all right back where I got it from after the carb rebuild - how do I know? I took pictures prior to disassembly and was amazed that it had ever worked.
The saga-
1) bought it - new
2) used it for a season (5-6 times)
3) stored it like dealer told me to.
4) tried to use it next season - it only ran 2-3 times.
brought it in for service "It's fixed but don't bring it back again"
5) stored it like dealer had told me to. This time though I didn't stop the dog from peeing on it.
6) wouldn't start in the fall- I removed the carb -it was clogged with what looked like shellac chips- rebuilt it
when I removed it I noticed that the linkage didn't really seem to do too much at all.
Yesterday (after 3 years of sitting under cover) I re-checked the carb, re-installed it and I was right. When I move the throttle back and forth (slow to fast - fast to slow) NOTHING moves on the carb, not the throttle plate, not the choke (which would be wrong) NOTHING!
Now I understand business 101 and no company puts that much effort and engineering into something that's not supposed to have any effect. They'd have just deleted the entire set up and called it good and put the money in the bank and called the new FEATURE "Steady Throttle" or some such thing.

Can anyone here tell me the best settings for this or direct me to a place that I can find the proper settings? I think that the dealers drone worker bee might have re-assembled it wrong because when I bought it the machine ran as you would expect it to.

Here's a link to a vid I shot just because I don't think anyone could believe such a story
http://s854.photobucket.com/albums/ab102/Marcintosh/Stupid%20Snowblower%20Carb%20Linkage/

ANY help is really appreciated.
apologies for the "Shakey Cam"
 

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Its not going to move while the engine is off. The governor holds the throttle wide open for easy starting, when the engine cranks, it closes the throttle to the speed desired by the throttle control.

Move the throttle on the carb from where it is, to idle...with the control on "Idle" then move it ot full throttle...notice the increase in resistance? This would equate to higher engine speeds.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Its not going to move while the engine is off. The governor holds the throttle wide open for easy starting, when the engine cranks, it closes the throttle to the speed desired by the throttle control.

Move the throttle on the carb from where it is, to idle...with the control on "Idle" then move it ot full throttle...notice the increase in resistance? This would equate to higher engine speeds.
THANKS!
That sounds very reasonable (though a bit advanced for a B&S if you catch my drift). IOW's that's something I'd more expect from a Honda not a B&S.

Thanks for the smarts. From what it sounds like I should be able to test it with a yank on the rope and a peek at the throttle. I'll be able to snap it back together on Thursday and give it a shot. :thanku:


It would be so great if I could get this POS running again.
Can't thank you enough-I wasn't really looking forward to more hogwash with this machine -- :thThumbsU
 

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If you want to avoid doing the 'shellac chip removal' deal next year, make sure the carburetor is empty of fuel when you put it in storage. You can drain the tank for use in the lawnmower, and then run the engine until it runs out of fuel. You can make sure there is none left by dropping the float bowl. Then do the 'other' stuff for the rings, etc. I would try to have the piston at or near TDC to minimize the exposure of the cylinder wall, but it probably doesn't make a dimes worth of difference.
tom
 

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Discussion Starter #5
If you want to avoid doing the 'shellac chip removal' deal next year, make sure the carburetor is empty of fuel when you put it in storage. You can drain the tank for use in the lawnmower, and then run the engine until it runs out of fuel. You can make sure there is none left by dropping the float bowl. Then do the 'other' stuff for the rings, etc. I would try to have the piston at or near TDC to minimize the exposure of the cylinder wall, but it probably doesn't make a dimes worth of difference.
tom
Thanks for the hint but I NOW use Premium fuel and I DON'T use Stabil anymore. I also fill it up to the neck and every now and again I run the thing (whatever it is) for a few minutes to heat the oil and get the moisture out of it (we average 79% humidity) and keep the little bitty holes in the carb open and flowing.
The dealers instructions were " use Stabil in every tank and when putting it up for the season, go according to the directions for storage and - don't touch it - just let it sit and you'll be fine" That's how I got the "free shellac" BTW here's a pic of it

http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/ab102/Marcintosh/Dusty%20Carb%20Bowl/Sand_Bowl.jpg
really impressive eh?
Any way thanks for the hints and if things go bad this winter I'll start doing the drain system.
 
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