[dieselworld]

Hi All,

Been searching the web for hours and found this site. Really cool!

I have a Snapper RER HV 28083 Model number 89594. I have a bad metal grinding noise when going in reverse and now when going foward and it wont hardly move now. Flipped her over and driven disc is good nothing looks worn or loose. Removed both rear wheels and hubs and they both had the holding pin sheard off, and ruined the axles by elongating the holes.

I have the exploded diagrams from the snapper on-line manuals but really need some general procedures to removing the axles so I can replace them. I will also inspect the chain and rear diff components and replace whats damaged.

I cant seem to find any axle removal procedures on the best way to remove the axles etc. Can you guys lend a hand?

Oh also how can I determine the year of the mower?

Thanks!

 

[rscurtis]

Remove the entire drive assembly from the frame. You can now disassemble the gearbox that the drive disc is attached to, the axles will come out from the inside. The model year is the first two digits of the serial #, which can be verified by the first two digits of the engine code # if it has a B&S engine.

 

[Mow Joe]

Before yanking the differential remove the hub for the driven disc and make sure it is not stripped out. I've seen many of those stripped out, usually the ones with the smooth-start clutch.

Before it stopped pulling completely did it snatch and jerk when turning? If so, this is usually a sign of stripped axle gears and requires a differential rebuild. Your problem could be within the smaller "chain case", but it probably isn't. I seldom ever repaired one of them, but I have probably rebuilt 100 differentials because of stripped axle gears. HTH

After rereading the initial post I see that the hub pins WERE sheared. I read that they were not. Unless you just want to tear into it you can just have the hubs welded to the axle or if they aren't damaged terribly, turn them about 90 degrees and redrill.

 

[dieselworld]

Thanks for all the posts!

I did not hear or observe any jerking while turning or any other anomoly. I just remember that the day it happened I did quite a bit of cutting in reverse. I did notice for a few weeks prior that it did not seem to pull quite as well in the lower 1-3 gear as it did in the 5-6 speed. Near the end of my cutting I hit reverse and the awful grinding noise. I run the mower for about 1.5 hours per cutting each week.

I have a hilly yard with islands in it and is quite a pain to cut. I really would like to have a zero turn mower but like my little "Forest Gump" ride since it was my Dads.

I really dont want to tear into it if I dont have to. I will post some pics of the axle ends and what ever else I find.

Should I just remove both fenders and disconnect all the springs etc and remove the unit as a whole?

Any other tips please post.

Thanks

 

[Mow Joe]

"Should I just remove both fenders and disconnect all the springs etc and remove the unit as a whole?"

No, that's not the correct way to remove the differential.

Let's diagnose this a little better before we go too deep.

With the wheels back on and bolts through the hubs, do they spin quite easily, much easier than before? Does the mower roll real easy now?

Did you take that clutch hub off the chain case and verify it is not stripped out at the keyway? I am highly suspect that this may be the issue since you didn't have any jerking in the turns before this happened. This is a very easy repair, while stripped axle gears is not so for a novice.

If the hub checks out OK, while you are there you can check the chain in the chain case quite easily. Slide one of the axle boots back to expose the hex tube. Rotate the shaft at the hub end of the chain case. If the hex tube turns the chain is not the problem. There is nothing but two sprockets and a chain in there.

 

[dieselworld]

Here is an update.

The clutch hub etc are not stripped and look real good. The axles turn the way they should when in grear. Not I saw on the back side of the driven disc a 4 inch chunk of rubber missing. Hmm.... So I put it in gear and turned everything by hand and evertime the driven disc rolls against the drive disc the whole assembly clangs. So my theory is that that is what is causing the noise. Essentially its banging up and down rapidly and it makes a heck of a racket.

I dont feel any loosness in the chain chase or diff, but I still need to replace the axles since the end holes are so wallowed out that the bolts will sheer again. Drilling another hole on the rh axle is not an option. The rh side with the chain case had previously been welded and is the worst. The hole is almost 40% all the way around the axle.

So...I need some good step by step instructions to get the axles out. I plan on keeping this mower for at least another decade.

Any pics would help as well. Is there an actual repair manual not just exploded parts diagrams?

Thanks again.

 

[Mow Joe]

I'm not sure if there is any documentation to help you along. I've been out of the business for 14 years, but I still think I could rebuild a Snapper rear-end blindfolded.

To remove the differential:

1 - Remove the hub from the small (left) axle
2 - Disconnect the boot from the differential.
3 - Remove the 1/2" head bolts from the perimeter of the RH fender and the nut from the fender tie bolt/rod
4 - Pull the differential out of the chain case and LH fender.

Just leave the chain case dangling. You should end up with the differential in your hands with the long axle and hex shaft protruding out the back. Parts have fallen off the axle inside the LH boot. You will need them later.

5 - If it won't slide out, the hex shaft is probably burred and won't slide through the chain case. Just disconnect the left boot and file the hexes a little to get it out. Usually I could yank it hard enough to get it out without filing.

I'll be back later, Nascar show is on

 

[Mow Joe]

From here I would usually clamp the unit in a vice with the hex tube down. I would lightly clamp the jaws on the shoulder for the boot.

To remove the axles:

1 - Remove all of the small bolts holding the fender to the case.
2 - Remove the nut from the thru-bolt. It has o-rings on it, so it probably won't fall all the way out.
3 - Pry the fender off the case and remove.
4 - Grab the larger axle shaft and pull up. The bull gear, spiders, and small axle will come out as an assembly. There should be a hex flange washer in the end of the hex shaft.
5 - Remove the 4 bolts through the spider gears. Throw these bolts away. They are a special locking bolt and are to be used only once. Note the alternating up/down position of the spiders. THEY HAVE TO GO BACK THAT WAY!

Now you are ready to go get an axle kit and put it back together. When getting parts, be sure to get 4 new spider gear bolts. I always replaced the hex flange washer as well. I have seen them worn and break so I always wanted to go back with new ones. There are 2 of them, the other one is loose in the LH axle boot. You need to take that boot loose now anyway.

I usually just filled it with 00 grease before before putting the fender back on, but that was just my way (translation: easier).

When putting the diff back in and before you shove the small axle through the LH fender, slide a new hex washer over the axle so that it's tabs stick back in the hex tube. Put a nylon washer on next (IIRC #11071). Now you can button everything up with the exception of the LH boot. After installing the wheels, grab the RH one and try to slide it back and forth. Most likely there will be some end play. To take up the play, take another 11071 washer and cut a V in it and snap it in between the two washers mentioned above. Do this until another washer won't fit. I hardly ever put in more than 2. If a mower had excessive end play it was usually because the hex washer inside the diff was broken/gone and the end of the tube was worn.

I hope you can get it done on my memory. It's been about 15 years since I've done one of these.