I know nothing!! :dunno:
axle question for an 812
Below are pics of my Right axle... the pics speak for themselves. This is why it was hopping. My question is 2 part...
1. is the wear bad enough where I HAVE to replace the axle?
2. Do I have to take the engine off and tear apart the transmission to replace said axle?
John
http://www.jpmill.us/gravely812/axle/Raxle.jpg
http://www.jpmill.us/gravely812/axle/Raxle2.jpg
http://www.jpmill.us/gravely812/axle/withkey.jpg
http://www.jpmill.us/gravely812/axle/withkey2.jpg
1. is the wear bad enough where I HAVE to replace the axle?
2. Do I have to take the engine off and tear apart the transmission to replace said axle?
John
http://www.jpmill.us/gravely812/axle/Raxle.jpg
http://www.jpmill.us/gravely812/axle/Raxle2.jpg
http://www.jpmill.us/gravely812/axle/withkey.jpg
http://www.jpmill.us/gravely812/axle/withkey2.jpg
1 - 20 of 24 Posts
With "mill" in your name, I thought you would know how to make it?? :dunno:Well I'm willing to try lol. How do I go about doing that? And would I make it the length of the whole worn part?
Start with a bigger piece of steel, remove everything that does not fit.
The longer, the better!! :fing32:
Judging by the deep lip cut on the axle closest to the seal by the hub moving on the axle, I think your best bet is replacing the axle. The area where the hub sits on the axle is probably now smaller than the actual ID of the hub, so its going to be a chore getting a hub not to spin on that axle from here on out.
Rick
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Rick
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Thanks for the tip. But do I have to remove the engine and transaxle to replace the axle? Because if I do I am gonna part out the tractor.
Judging by the deep lip cut on the axle closest to the seal by the hub moving on the axle, I think your best bet is replacing the axle. The area where the hub sits on the axle is probably now smaller than the actual ID of the hub, so its going to be a chore getting a hub not to spin on that axle from here on out.
Rick
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You will have to open the trans-axle. You can do that without removing the engine.
Don't open it up until you can locate the right axle. Yours is a 73 and most likey has a limited slip diff. That might be a different part number from the axles made after 74.
There might be other ways to save that axle. What about those thin metal rings used to restore the surface when a seal wears a groove? I forget what they are called. One could be pressed onto the axle where the lip is.
Then, a new key. Followed by another 'sleeve' on the outboard end of the key, if the ale is worn there as well.
Also perhaps add set screws to the hub and/or use loctite sleeve and bearing retainer.
If the above is not a good idea, have the hub bored and sleeved and turned to the new, smaller axle diameter. But this sounds like a lot more work and the above should be feasible.
Another idea: use a sharp punch to make a hundred divots in the axle. Each will raise a metal crater. Think of this as a poor man's knurl. This will increase the OD of the axle, enough for the hub to grab. The little metal mounds will self-level as you reinstall the hub.
I'm sure there are other ideas as well.
This is a low speed/low load machine, so it should not take much to keep the hub on square and secure.
Then, a new key. Followed by another 'sleeve' on the outboard end of the key, if the ale is worn there as well.
Also perhaps add set screws to the hub and/or use loctite sleeve and bearing retainer.
If the above is not a good idea, have the hub bored and sleeved and turned to the new, smaller axle diameter. But this sounds like a lot more work and the above should be feasible.
Another idea: use a sharp punch to make a hundred divots in the axle. Each will raise a metal crater. Think of this as a poor man's knurl. This will increase the OD of the axle, enough for the hub to grab. The little metal mounds will self-level as you reinstall the hub.
I'm sure there are other ideas as well.
This is a low speed/low load machine, so it should not take much to keep the hub on square and secure.
I'm also wondering if stick welding the splits in the axle then filing the welds so the key way fits nice and snug.
I also found a pair of axles on ebay but now I'm afraid they won't be the right ones based on what Arcam said. I don't know how to discern the difference.
Gravely Tractor Lawn Mower 812 Rear Axle Shafts | eBay
I also found a pair of axles on ebay but now I'm afraid they won't be the right ones based on what Arcam said. I don't know how to discern the difference.
Gravely Tractor Lawn Mower 812 Rear Axle Shafts | eBay
There might be other ways to save that axle. What about those thin metal rings used to restore the surface when a seal wears a groove? I forget what they are called. One could be pressed onto the axle where the lip is.
Then, a new key. Followed by another 'sleeve' on the outboard end of the key, if the ale is worn there as well.
Also perhaps add set screws to the hub and/or use loctite sleeve and bearing retainer.
If the above is not a good idea, have the hub bored and sleeved and turned to the new, smaller axle diameter. But this sounds like a lot more work and the above should be feasible.
Another idea: use a sharp punch to make a hundred divots in the axle. Each will raise a metal crater. Think of this as a poor man's knurl. This will increase the OD of the axle, enough for the hub to grab. The little metal mounds will self-level as you reinstall the hub.
I'm sure there are other ideas as well.
This is a low speed/low load machine, so it should not take much to keep the hub on square and secure.
If it were mine, I would weld the hub to the axle, and worry about it in 15 years,,,,
Perhaps braze instead of weld. Brass will be strong enough and it will be easier to shape.I'm also wondering if stick welding the splits in the axle then filing the welds so the key way fits nice and snug.
I also found a pair of axles on ebay but now I'm afraid they won't be the right ones based on what Arcam said. I don't know how to discern the difference.
Gravely Tractor Lawn Mower 812 Rear Axle Shafts | eBay
I don't think it has limited slip based on my knowledge of cars with limited slip. To test it you jack up both sides and turn one wheel while someone else holds the other wheel. If you can turn the one wheel and the other wheel doesn't move then its not limited slip. I don't know if Gravelys are the same but I suspect it is. My Gravely does not pass the test.
Arcam can you tell if the axles on eBay are the right axles?
Gravely Tractor Lawn Mower 812 Rear Axle Shafts | eBay
John
Arcam can you tell if the axles on eBay are the right axles?
Gravely Tractor Lawn Mower 812 Rear Axle Shafts | eBay
John
Don't open it up until you can locate the right axle. Yours is a 73 and most likey has a limited slip diff. That might be a different part number from the axles made after 74.
Great idea Max thanks
Perhaps braze instead of weld. Brass will be strong enough and it will be easier to shape.
IF your tractor has the LSD and IF I can trust my eyes AND the parts list drawings, they do look like what you would need. But it's going to be hard to know until you open up the trans. I can't be certain.
The LSD part number is 17977p1
The later diff axle is part number 19957p1
The LSD part number is 17977p1
The later diff axle is part number 19957p1
I vote for adding metal by braze or weld and then shaping
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I'm surprised to learn the early 812s had LSDs. Somehow I thought that was limited to the 816s
Learn something new regularly.
Learn something new regularly.
I'm 100% almost pretty sure that all 800s had LSD in the beginning.
My theory is that is why they left the steering brakes were left off the first 800s.
My theory is that is why they left the steering brakes were left off the first 800s.
Makes some sense for sure.
Maybe someone will be along with an experience/ownership that will be certain? Since my parter is a '74? ? ? here.
Come to think of it the R axle can be pulled right out of it as the transmission sits in my shed.
Maybe someone will be along with an experience/ownership that will be certain? Since my parter is a '74? ? ? here.
Come to think of it the R axle can be pulled right out of it as the transmission sits in my shed.
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