[funtruck]

Today I bought some Snapper paraphernalia. I'll be using the 33" during the summer, but want to get the 28" ready for bagging season with all our leaves.

It's in need of some drive repair. Other than boots, what is missing? I'm starting to peruse the parts/service manuals from this site (a wealth of information)

 

[funtruck]

Sorry... the Model# is 280914BE. I'll probably be doing a semi-restore job on it. I'm a first timer to the RER's.

 

[propwash]

Welcome funtruck: The "ty-raps" for boot clamps are different,should be "radiator hose clamps",and that brake spring,is also different.

 

[propwash]

It looks like the PO just "used what he could find",to repair things,the brake spring can be a PITA,to install,if you didn't pay close attention,to removing it. Luckily theres a replacement spring,a "torsional" one ,it wraps around the pivot bolt,and comes in a "kit" with instructions. You mentioned "hub bearings" AFAIK,the only bearings in this area,are in the "fenders", inboard from the "hubs".

 

[tomw0]

DC, the clamp is there over on the differential case ... just covered in grunge.

funtruck, if you poke around in this section of the forum, you'll find some pretty detailed instructions on how to change the boots. The hex shaft should be cleaned and lightly lubed during re-assembly. Personally, I would use a wire brush or one of those 3M pads that will remove adhesive w/o touching the metal underneath(may even leave the paint alone). The left(from the seat) axle will likely have a grease fitting for the smaller mower(s) and will have a sealed bearing for the larger.
That one back in the left corner looks as if it needs a bit of restoration before use.
tom

 

[propwash]

Hi tomw0,yeah,I see it now,my old eyes aren't that good any more. I'm supposed to see a Doctor tomorrow,and start the "Cataract" stuff.
funtruck: use the search function,for "boots" and "hubs" there are many discussions,on this,all I'll,say now "Once you get the drivers L/H hub off,it's all downhill from there".

 

[funtruck]

Thanks for the insight, guys. I'll start tearing it down tomorrow. I've been browsing/searching older posts. Even found a youtube video or 2 that I can help with the process. Even the Series 4,5,6 Service Manual seemed pretty helpful.

dc-3, Garth Brooks said "I'm much too young to feel this dang old"

I've only got 2 working mowers to work with. The two frames on the far left in my picture above had a tree fall on them, twisting the frames. I may be able to salvage the 8hp Briggs off the 25" mower on the left.

 

[funtruck]

Ok, got it all broken down and on the workbench. These bearings in the Fenders just press in and out, correct?

There's a lot of slop and wiggling going on here with the differential. I took it all apart and the gears look good. Will a new Bearing in the Left (differential side) fender take out all that slop?

The parts list and assembly diagram shows two bearings. #2 (7018822) and #2A (7012296). My fender looks like it has #2A and it's a $5 bearing. What about this #2 bearing? It's $30. I ordered both but don't see where the #2 bearing is installed. Is it inside the Differential covered in grease?

It's a Snapper model #280914BE

 

[propwash]

There are 2 different set-ups,on the RER. One with plain "bushings 7018822
,like the worn one in your photo,the other is a "ball bearing". used in "X-tra duty" ,and some larger engines, they were used less and less as the RER was made, I don't know if they were used at all on the very late ones. The "worn out" bushing can be pretty common,the riders,L/H side had a grease fitting,for the bushing,and sometimes doesn't get greased.Mine was worn almost through the bushing,they can wear through to the fender ruining the axle., the bearings have different size holes in the fenders,and cant be interchanged without changing fenders. The bushing is a "light press" fit,it has an "anti-rotation notch",but can slip and rotate,if the "cross-over rod is bent,letting the fenders,move inboard enough to release the notch.Is the worn bushing on the side with the transmission case bolted to the fender? it's usually the one on the "long axle",on the riders L/H (while he's in the seat,not looking at it "up on the bumpers) The one on the transmission side is usually lubed enough from leakage from the trans.

 

[propwash]

A photo from my re-build,this is just before the R/H fender was installed,you can't see the chain,and the "hex tube" that connects to the chain.The "long axle" sticks out the "hex tube",on the bottom.If you haven't already done it you should download the "series 4,5,6,& later service manual",it has some good advice on the Transmission/differential box,and the "chain case",these areas,were pretty much the same for most series,RER's.Notice I used the "8 pinion" differential,set-up,and I also used the "ball bearings",but that doesn't show.

 

[funtruck]

I've disassembled my axles and most of the differential, I shouldn't need to mess with the gears in there. I'll just clean all the old grease out and reassemble it.

Both sides L/H and R/H are worn pretty badly. I'll replace them both and see if I can get this thing put back together correctly.