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Discussion Starter #1
I've read someone here saying that an Aux hydro lift will bolt right up to a G10. Has anyone done this? I'm interested in doing this. I'm looking at my G10 and the Techumseh's pulley has three positions for belts. The first, nearest the engine, drives the pto bellow it, which drives the attachments. The second and third positions are to change the transmission drive speeds. The pto drive pulley looks to be the only one that would clear the tractor's side pannel to drive the aux. lift. How would this be done?
 

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I put a hydro lift on my B&S powered G10, and it WAS NOT a straight forward affair.

I don't know if the TEC mounts to the frame the same way as a B&S, but if it does, the mounting bars for the hydro lift will not work.

In the instructions for mounting the lift, they say to use the bars in place of the spacers between the frame and engine.

The B&S doesn't have spacers. Instead, it has a piece of flat stock with the "spacers" welded to it. Those "spacers" are also threaded and are what the mounting bolts use to secure the engine to the frame. If you have #90 in the pic below that is then bolted to the engine, it's the same as I have.

I had to have new mounting bars fabricated that were wide enough so holes large enough to fit the "spacers" into.

I also had problems with the choke and throttle cable interfering with installing the belt. Instead of removing those cables, installing the belt, and then re-installing them, I chose to use one of these:
http://www.fennerdrives.com/high_pe...c_vbelts.asp?gclid=CMW3iozV96sCFYXrKgodUA170A Those belts aren't cheap, but it did eliminate a lot of hassle.

You might take a closer look at the pulleys as well. I have a 2nd pulley that is right after the PTO pulley.

Heres a pic of my pulleys and belts, and a snip of the parts catalog for the G10 showing the "spacer" part I'm referring to.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks! Those belts are great on a table saw. It keeps the motor from bouncing/vibrating like a regular belt.
Is there more than one kit? Yours, from what you've discribed, sounds like it would work with mine without modifications to the mounting. My tractor is older with the Techumseh, which stands on the four spacers. Also, the cables are run higher and out of the way of a belt for the lift pulley. So it looks like I'd have to replace the pulley assembly on the crankshaft. I was hoping it grew another belt guide when I went to look again.
Do you have the part numbers for your lift assembly? Installation manual?
 

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... My tractor is older with the Techumseh, which stands on the four spacers. ...
Do you have the part numbers for your lift assembly? Installation manual?
Look VERY VERY closely at those "spacers". At first look, that's what I thought I had on mine as well. It wasn't until I started removing them that I found otherwise.

OH, another thing. You will probably need a 12 point socket or box end wrench to remove the mounting bolts.

Yes, there were more than one model of lift, but it's not easy to determine which one is which. The seem to be almost identical.

EDIT:

I tried to attach the manuals I have, but thay are too large :banghead3

I'll try to find links for you to D/L them.

Ah HA:

http://www.mytractorforum.com/images/reference/tube_frame_hydraulic_lift.pdf
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the manual!
I've attached pictures of the motor mounts with the bolts (look like yours?), and the pulley. There isn't a bar attached to the spacers on either side of the motor.
The parts illustration of the motor mounts you show has a parts list. The parts number on the list has numbers after them. At the bottom of the page, it shows those numbers and identifies them by tractor serial number. My tractor was painted before I bought it and no serial numbers remain. Trying to research the year hasn't been easy but the Tecumseh was mounted on the G10 in '73 for a couple years before it was replaced by the Briggs and Stratton.
:thanku:
 

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OK, it looks like you DO have spacers.

That's a good thing. I also see that the mounting bolts are hex, so you won't need a 12 pt wrench/socket either.

Looks like the only problem is not having the pulley to drive the hydro.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
:swow: Wow. Those lifts are not cheap. Someone on ebay just bought one for $225 plus shipping, and another is starting out at $200 and it doesn't seem to have all the pieces to attach it.
 

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At 225.00 that was a deal.

300.00 is pretty much the going price for one that is in good condition.

The reason I got one for the G10 is that I was going to use my snowcaster on it this winter. I had a tiller on it, and that was hard enough to lift with the manual lift, and I knew that the snowcaster is a lot heavier than the tiller.

Since then, I've bought 2 1256s, so the G10 is probably going to be sold. I just don't know whether to sell it WITH the hydro unit, of take the hydro off and sell it separately.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I would be scratching my head, too. Do you sell it to get rid of it or to break even or make a killing on parting it out?
I think I'll keep looking but end up hanging a counter weight off of the front attached to the lift arm to lighten the load of the tiller, or some sort of spring assist.
 

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... or some sort of spring assist.
Bolens did offer a spring assist kit. I've never seen one, but I'm sure someone else here has. I'm also betting that it wouldn't be too hard to make your own.
 

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Snowman, That is awesome. American ingenuity at it's finest. To keep from losing your second pto belt, why did you not utilize the existing hydro-add on belt groove in your pulley? Was it belt speed related? Just curious.
 

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Snowman-
Excellent job! What did it cost you all together and how long did it take? What's that big yellow bracket(?) that you painted black next to the right footboard?
 

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i wonder if the G12 had that pully for the lift, cause I have a pully from one if you want it.
 

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I know the price sounds high for the hydraulic lifts,if you go to buy it for Cub Cadet or John Deere you will have to shell out $350.00-$400.00,after you have one you will wish you had it alot sooner,they are super for lifting the tillers
 

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Mike,

I really can't tell you how much time it took to build the hydraulic lift, because I took care of a few other problems at the same time. While I had the engine out, I discovered that one of the 4 bolts that held the front axle assembly to the tubes had broken off in the casting. I ended up drilling out the broken bolt completely (the easy-out wasn't doing it) and putting in a heli-coil.

Also, since the engine was already out, it seemed like a good time to take care of some oil leaks that it had. So I tore down the top end and gave it a ******* valve job, replaced the valve guides, and put in all new gaskets. A nice fresh coat of paint and she was ready to go back in.

The tractor had sat in my garage for over a year with the motor pulled out, but I wasn't actively working on it. When I finally made it a priority, I think I spent about two months of evenings and weekends designing and fabricating the lift and putting it all back together.

As far as the cost, I probably ended up spending about the same amount of money that I would have spent on an original Bolens Lift Kit. Here is the eBay price list (your cost will vary due to the fact that I bought these items about 4 years ago and the price will vary based on current supply and demand):

Dodge P/S Pump -- $10
Bolens Control Valve -- $25
Bolens Lift Cylinder -- $35

I wasted about $60 having a hydraulic shop use their fancy machine to bend up some stainless lines to hook up the cylinder to the valve. I say wasted because stainless lines are so stiff that I couldn't successfully "tweak" the lines the necessary amount to make them fit. I ended up buying mild steel brake lines at NAPA for about $5 and a $10 tubing bender from Harbor Freight. I cut the fittings off the stainless lines and bent my own from the brake line.

I bought 16' of 3/8" hydraulic hose for about $28, including shipping, from DiscountHydraulicHose.com although I probably only used about 3' of it on this project. I also bought about $70 worth of various hydraulic fittings from the same outfit as well, but again, I didn't use it all. I always buy extra so I can build up a supply for future projects.

I got one FREE power steering hose off of a Dodge Dakota pickup at my local junkyard. I needed a Dodge hose to fit my pump, and it had to have a particular shape and configuration to serve my purpose. I tried to buy a new one at NAPA and at AutoZone, but those folks had no interest in helping me find a suitable line by simply allowing me to look through their stock until I found one that worked. A power steering line was necessary for me because power steering fittings use an O-ring whereas the rest of the hydraulic fittings use a 37-degree flare for sealing.

Beyond that stuff, there were the belts, the pulleys, the filter, the hinges for the mount, the fluid, etc. So, like I said, I really didn't save any money. But that was not my main motivation for tackling this project. First, it was a matter of principle--I simply didn't want to spend $200 bucks on a 35-year old Bolens lift kit that appeared to have spent the better part of that 35-years rusting in the mud out behind the garage.

Secondly, I really just wanted to do it because I took it as a personal challenge to come up with something original that was totally of my own doing. I've been a motor head since I was a kid (dirtbikes, snowmobiles, cars, helicopters, etc) but I had never really fabricated anything myself.

When it was all said and done, it worked AWESOME! I no longer had to wrench my shoulder and my back trying to lift the tiller and the blower! Would I do it again? Absolutely! It was fun, challenging, and very rewarding.

Now, a quick answer for Ratboy: My original design called for me to sacrifice one of the PTO belts to run the pump. That was a completely stupid plan on my part due to my completely missing the fact that there is a 5th groove on that pulley. Yes, I was born blonde, and sometimes is shows!

Another MTF member pointed out the extra v-belt groove and with a little adjustment to my mounts, I was able to shift the pump to align with that groove.

Sorry for the incredibly long dissertation, I hope I've answered all the questions. If you have any more, let me know.

Ted
 

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... What's that big yellow bracket(?) that you painted black next to the right footboard?
That bracket is there to support the crank the turns the deflector on a snowcaster.

It may be one of the most over-engineered brackets in history, as it's made of 3/8" x 1 1/2" or 2" bar stock, and the actual weight it supports MIGHT be 1 Lb.

On my G10 it was mounted on the INSIDE of the foot rest. However, I had to take it off when I installed the hydro lift as it interfered with it.

Bolens was aware of that however, as they had a 'rod support' piece included with the lift kit. If you look at the manual I linked to, it's almost dead center in the parts diagram and is either number 31 or 5, depending on which model you are looking at.

... after you have one you will wish you had it alot sooner,they are super for lifting the tillers
+1 and QFT!

I used a tiller behind the G10 ONE time, and knew that I was going to get either a spring assist, or the hydro lift. I'm not all that big, (weigh maybe 160# with a brick in each back pocket), and it took BOTH hands to lift and lower that rascal. Plus, I ain't getting any younger (I'm a 1945 model).

Couple that with the fact that I also have a snowcaster that I'm planning to use this winter, it was almost mandatory, since the snowcaster is even heavier than the tiller.

The hydro lift is probably THE best accessory that you can get for a tube frame.
 

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Thanks Old Buzzard!

I forgot to answer that specific question about the snowcaster chute arm support! I welded a bracket to mine to provide an extra anchor for the pump for belt tensioning. That long arm (and the step) had too much flex in it though to be a very effective anchor for the pump. Under load the belt would want to slip but I could counter that by simple pressing my foot against the arm while I actuated the lift system.

If I were going to build another one, I would run an additional support over to the engine tin to help stiffen things up.

Ted
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Snowman-
I like your idea of stocking up for future projects. That's why I asked how much you spent. I wanted to know if I was going to get a welder and a home-made hydo lift for under 300 bucks! When my bride comes up with a project for me, I always seem to NEED a new tool. :thThumbsU
Buzz-
I'll have to look at the parts manuals. I got a snowcaster with the tractor but there isn't a support for the shoot control arm. May not matter since I picked up a snowthrower for my Wheel Horse. I was looking for a tiller (they are not cheap - like me) for the Wheel Horse. I bought the tiller because it came with the G10, mower deck and snowcaster.:fing32:
Deck_Drive-
I don't know if I should trouble you with it at this time. It might end up being a trophy on a shelf for a while. Old Buzzard is right! That tiller is HEAVY and I wieght 200 lbs - without the bricks in my pockets! I gotta scroung up some cash to do this.
:thanku:
 
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