at a loss please chime in

Magnets can come loose from the flywheel and cause such problems..not very common though,but it can happen..excessive bearing play can let the crank get pulled upwards and let the flywheel contact the SSI armature sometimes too...some have J-B Welded the magnets back in sucessfully,but I wouldn't want to trust that with something spinning at 3600 rpms,if it ever let go,the results would not be pretty,and could be harmful to your health!..

Tractor-Holic said:

Magnets can come loose from the flywheel and cause such problems..not very common though,but it can happen..excessive bearing play can let the crank get pulled upwards and let the flywheel contact the SSI armature sometimes too...some have J-B Welded the magnets back in sucessfully,but I wouldn't want to trust that with something spinning at 3600 rpms,if it ever let go,the results would not be pretty,and could be harmful to your health!..

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I did glue my magnets back on, 6 of them, as they all came off. I have no fear they will come lose, they were only held on from the factory what looked like a super thin layer of either adhesive or double sided tape. I used JB weld and am not worried cause the JB weld is holding them in place, because they are a magnet, they stick themselves to the flywheel anyway.

lbyeah said:

ok give me some pointers or bearing numbers if possible and do you change the races too or not im not a mechanical idiot but never gone this deep in a small motor engine is a 143.602022 12hp i know i need a bearing spreader and need to heat the new bearings but any other tips would be nice

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Did you check the end play? Since it has roller bearings the end play should be zero to preload the bearings properly.

You'll need a bearing separator and puller to remove the bearings from the crank. You'll need a hot plate and a container of oil to heat the bearings for installation. You could always have a local machine shop do it for you...

The races don't necessarily need to be replaced, you can inspect them and if they look good you can reuse them. Otherwise you'll have to press or knock them out of the cover. New ones will need to pressed or hammered back in. I have a bearing and race driver kit that I use with a press or hammer.

It should not bind up,if it feels stiff only at one point,its possible the crank journal is egg shaped,and you measured it where it had the largest diameter...also they can wear tapered at an angle side to side too,that will show up as unever wear at the journal on the rod surfaces..since these engines had no oil pump or oil pressure,its critical the rod and crank journal clearances are within spec and not out of round,as they dont have any oil pressure to help cushion the parts and keep them quiet like you would in a pressure lubed engine...some cast iron engines are just noisy anyway,their cam gears and lifters can cause a lot of noise ,yet its considered "normal"--to a degree of course..
I cant hear how bad yours knocked,so I have to take your word for it that it sounds "bad"...