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Blank Space
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Discussion Starter #1
For next year, I'm considering replacing the stove pipe through the roof and doing new flashing and what not. If I'm going to have that all torn apart anyways, I was wondering about installing a heat reclaimer in the stove pipe.

Something like this:


I'm just not sure if they're worth the price.

What about soot collecting inside it?
 

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Don't waste your money on that model, my father in law got that one. I have the "Magic Heat" version on the same wood stove as his. I also have a blower on wood stove. The "Magic Heat" puts out I believe 30, 000 or 35,000 btu's. It blows incredibly hot air back at you from 5' away much more than the blower. I have had no problems with mine and have had it for 5 years never brushed my insulated stove pipes just run it as hot as I can.

Sent from the MTF Free App

GS.
 

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OLD TIRED CDN. MECHANIC
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40 yrs ago my Dad put one on the exhaust stack of our oil burning house furnace. It was always putting out heat in the basement. With an exhaust stack temp in excess of 400*F you can be sure there was lots of lost heat to recapture. It remained in place for 30 yrs until the furnace was replaced. Has to have been one heck of a payback.

I would check into fire / insurance regulations first though before proceeding on a wood burning appliance. May well be just fine, just do not know.
 

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Blank Space
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Discussion Starter #5
Don't waste your money on that model, my father in law got that one. I have the "Magic Heat" version on the same wood stove as his. I also have a blower on wood stove. The "Magic Heat" puts out I believe 30, 000 or 35,000 btu's. It blows incredibly hot air back at you from 5' away much more than the blower.
This one?


More than twice the price.
 

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We have a Magic Heat reclaimer that has been used in our house, on the wood burning kitchen range, another house, on a wood burning parlor stove and now is being used on a barrel stove in a shop. Probably has been in use for over 20 years now and still works great. The amount of heat it scavenges from the stack is really amazing. Be sure the stove pipe damper is below the stack robber.

Only disadvantage is you have to remove the fan motor if the power fails and you don't have backup power. Fail to do this and the fan motor will be ruined if you have the stove going.

Mike
 

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Blank Space
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Discussion Starter #8
Not really in a position to spend the money on this right now, so I'm wondering about this idea. Right now, the stack is straight up from the shove to the outside. No bends or offsets. Got to be lots of heat going out I know.

So, what about using 4 elbows to add a kink? 90 right, 90 up, short straight, 90 left, 90 up.

I don't want to kill the draft obviously, or create other problems, but in my mind this will help with some of the heat retention. 'Course my mind don't always work so good no more.
 

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So, what about using 4 elbows to add a kink? 90 right, 90 up, short straight, 90 left, 90 up.

I don't want to kill the draft obviously, or create other problems,

but in my mind this will help with some of the heat retention. 'Course my mind don't always work so good no more.
Simply replace a section of the pipe with a 30 gallon barrel,,,,

the surface area will give you heat

there will be no added restrictions

it will cost less than 4 elbows


Woot! :thThumbsU Win, Win, Win,,,,,,,,,,,
 

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I knew a few people that had those magic heat units back about 30+ years ago. they worked VERY well. The units they had looked to be bigger then the one shown, and had the fan attached to the back in a cage, and held up fine when not blowing. Maybe the new ones have been "Improved" so they don't last.
 

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not to get off track to far but does any one have any problem with there dampers over heating.seems like they heat up to the point they want to warp.these are the ones from over there.never had much trouble with the ones made over here.
 

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I've never had a damper warp,but a few have rusted away enough on me to be non effective..I suspect burning nice ash or oak at full draft getting the damper too hot may have had something to do with that though..:rolleyes:..

As for the magic heat reclaimer things,I had one once,I had to remove it because my stove pipe in my garage on the stove I tried it on is a 12' long nearly horizontal run with only a slight incline,and the chimney has poor draft due to trees near it--using the heat reclaimer killed the draft enough to make backdrafts a big problem--even without it I often get some when the wind blows from a certain direction..

The model I had didn't have any fan or motor...the small pipes in it can clog with soot fairly rapidly,and need to be cleaned out after a month or two..

I wouldn't want one with the fan and motor if it cant withstand being used with the fan not running in a no power situation..kind of kills the benefit of having the wood stove !..(I dont care for pellet stoves for the same reason)..

You can make a "loop" of elbows and tee fittings that will do much the same thing,but at todays prices ,it wont be cheap--I priced 6" tee fittings and elbows at many local stores like Lowes,Tractor Supply,etc,the tee fitting are 18 bucks each,elbows about 10..and they would need to be replaced probably in a year or two..

You could use a barrel as suggested,I would put the barrel horizontal instead of vertical and make the stove pipe enter from one side on the bottom,and out the other side on the top,so the smoke has to travel across the barrel,which will extract more heat without needing baffles or reducing the draft too much..and you can likely find a barrel for free..

I have read in some wood heat books how old churches and schools often had stove pipes running almost horizontally with a slight upward incline (4" per foot is the minimum for "code" here),and they used pipes as long as 50 feet,to extract more heat--often the pipes put out as much or more than a stove can...they had to hang buckets or make gutters to catch dripping creosote,and take the pipes apart often to clean them out...

One chapter in the book explains how a "heat reclaimer" can cause draft and soot problems,and it shows many stoves that had several chambers built into them for the smoke to pass thru,to increase heating efficiency..but at the cost of increased soot build up and creosote..

I noticed a huge difference in the amount of heat I got when I moved my stove 12' away from the chimney and added the pipe,VS using it hooked directly to the pipe with 1' of pipe and one elbow in my garage...but the draft isn't too great,the chimney is an outdoor one that stays cold,plus nearby trees block some of the draft,so its prone to backdrafts ,I added a cap to it and that helps a lot..
I have to "sweep" out the 12 foot of pipe about every month or so,or enough soot builds up to reduce the draft considerably..
 

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Blank Space
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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
^^ Not enough room for anything like that.

Shopping around I found this:

http://www.lowes.com/pd_125891-85334-GVL0263_0__?productId=3664088&Ntt=galvanized+duct&pl=1&currentURL=?Ntt=galvanized+duct&page=3&facetInfo=

And it gave me an idea. Using something similar, what about making a small box to emulate a heat reclaimer? Use some 1/2" galvanized water pipe, or maybe black pipe for the tubes. Add a pancake fan to force air through them.

Gaps could be more open than the factory units to avoid the soot clogging issue.

If you made the box right, you could rig up a door below the pipes that could be opened to brush out any soot that accumulated.
 

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OLD TIRED CDN. MECHANIC
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Simply replace a section of the pipe with a 30 gallon barrel,,,,

the surface area will give you heat

there will be no added restrictions

it will cost less than 4 elbows


Woot! :thThumbsU Win, Win, Win,,,,,,,,,,,
Don't some brands of wood stove already come with a restrictive "Smoke Chamber" already built into the stove, above the fire box. Just seems a little safer.

Hey. The price of oil is down this winter.

Hope they pass the savings on to us. Yah right.............
 

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The galvanized conduit will probably last a while,though the zinc might just be melted off in short order and the fumes that emits might be harmful--it's probably a toss up as to what will throw more heat--thin conduit would heat up quickly but not retain much after the fire dies down some,while thicker black iron pipe would,but will take longer to heat up too..

If you want a fan,I'd use an external squirrel cage type off something,they are much quieter than a bladed fan,and you dont need it blowing at full speed,a dimmer switch can be used to vary the rpms of the blower motor..

Personally I thing just adding a horizontal barrel or even a metal 5 gallon bucket in with the stove pipe would give off as much heat as a magic heat device does,I have done it and was pleased with the results..

I used a 35 gallon barrel a gas station had in the scrap pile that was from their grease gun...(got a few years worth of free grease from it too before I used it for that!)...I set it up like the "second barrel" in a 55 gallon drum stove kit,I bought the collars in kit form from a hardware store for 25 bucks,but I could have just brazed or welded in stove pipe to it , for free..

As for heating oil,it was 3.06 a gallon when my tank was filled the first of November--I doubt it will go much lower,really...diesel is still 3.45 a gallon here,yet I hear a few places have been selling gas for as low as 1.99 ,most stations near me are getting 2.75 a gallon or so..I'm tempted to put a gas engine in my diesel truck now...
 

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Don't some brands of wood stove already come with a restrictive "Smoke Chamber" already built into the stove, above the fire box. Just seems a little safer.
If you do not have elevated flue temperature, nothing will give you extra heat,,,,

so, an attachment is just a matter of
surface area
and
capability of free flowing the exhaust.

The barrel is perfect,,,
(except for looks,,,, :hide:)
 
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