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i just got this tractor for free. and i plan on making it a little racer for around the neighborhood. anybody have any information on these little things i cant find anything thanks[/ATTACH][/ATTACH]
any info
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it has an 8hp briggs and stratton. the tranny has just forward, neutral and reverse. i dont know much about mowers just getting into it but i could still make a racer for the neighborhood even though it dosnt have variable speeds right.
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about going fast if i switch the pulley's do you think i might get 20 mph out of it or am i just wasting my time
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20,933 Posts
I'd say its very possible with 8 hp,on that lightweight!..VERY possible!..maybe even double that,but you'll get tossed off it at about 15 mph if you drive over a bump,I had a "Rugg" mower similar to that I re-geared and it could hit 25 or so,but good luck staying ON it at anything over 10 mph if your not on a nice smooth surface!..better stock up on Preperation H too!..you'll NEED it!..
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i hear you about getting tossed off what did you do to re-gear you rugg. i know nothing about mowers just getting into it. i race motorcycles, so i am not looking to race these too just play around with
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I got the Rugg without an engine,so I put a 5 HP briggs horizontal shaft engine on it with a metal plate bolted to the frame rails--took off the deck,was junk anyway,and used a jack shaft to connect the engine to the chain drive on the rear axle,I didn't get a tranny either,so it had no reverse..
The engine came off a roto-tiller,and had that little 1/2" extra shaft off the cam for reverse--I tried rigging up a pulley on the axle and a idler & belt to it,to get reverse,but the second time I tried backing up,that shaft snapped right off the engine!..so I gave up on reverse!..
I used a centrifical clutch on the engine and a small sprocket about the same as the clutch had on the jack shaft,and a 15 tooth one to the 60 tooth rear sprocket..the thing flew once you got rolling,but takeoffs were rather unimpresive..
You can do the same by changing pulley sizes,with similar results..having 8 HP will help a lot,but if you gear it high ,dont expect blazing acceleration or good hill climbing ability!..and HANG ON!..
I got wounded on that Rugg about every time I got on it!..the spark plug was too close to my testicles for comfort too,I got some powerful jolts when I made contact with the plug wire at 4000 rpms!..I ended up taking it apart before I really hurt myself on it!..I was 44 when I built it too,and got a LOT of strange looks when people saw me fly by on it..
The engine came off a roto-tiller,and had that little 1/2" extra shaft off the cam for reverse--I tried rigging up a pulley on the axle and a idler & belt to it,to get reverse,but the second time I tried backing up,that shaft snapped right off the engine!..so I gave up on reverse!..
I used a centrifical clutch on the engine and a small sprocket about the same as the clutch had on the jack shaft,and a 15 tooth one to the 60 tooth rear sprocket..the thing flew once you got rolling,but takeoffs were rather unimpresive..
You can do the same by changing pulley sizes,with similar results..having 8 HP will help a lot,but if you gear it high ,dont expect blazing acceleration or good hill climbing ability!..and HANG ON!..
I got wounded on that Rugg about every time I got on it!..the spark plug was too close to my testicles for comfort too,I got some powerful jolts when I made contact with the plug wire at 4000 rpms!..I ended up taking it apart before I really hurt myself on it!..I was 44 when I built it too,and got a LOT of strange looks when people saw me fly by on it..
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17 Posts
nice, tractor holic. i might just change my sprocket to a 15 tooth instead of messing with the pulley's. hope i dont mess the tranny up.
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i would love to run a straight pipe if i can ever get this rusted pipe off. its threaded into the engine so i dont want to cut it
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384 Posts
That is as cute as a little bug! Please keep us updated on your little racer project.
Does that thing have a brake? Where's the brake pedal?
Does that thing have a brake? Where's the brake pedal?
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17 Posts
well jlinskey, i just noticed it when i brought it home and it dosent have one. i am trying to find pics on the internet so i can kind of get an idea on how to put one on. i will keep posting new pics until its done. i just picked up my paint today. its going to be white with metalic purple with black and silver flakes. but i still have a while till paint
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20,933 Posts
I got two severely rusted mufflers out of engines recently, using a new to me method another small engine mechanic told me about..
Run the engine till its good and HOT,at least ten minutes,preferably under a load,mow with it or drive the tractor,etc..then get some Liquid Wrench or similar penetrant,and spray it good at the threads..then LEAVE it running if possible,and use a pipe wrench,vise grips,channel lock pliers,etc,to apply firm steady torque to the pipe,and try not to squash it if possible..apply more penetrant if needed..might need to do this several times..you'll feel the pipe start turning when you douse it with the penetrant,it shrinks it a bit!..
Ifound after about 30 seconds,the pipe began to unscrew from the heat and vibration,and then came out easily,I was surprised..usually I ended up breaking the pipe off in the exhaust port and had to resort to using a cold chisel to carefully peel the pipe inward and cave it in so it could be removed,then clean the threads with a 1/2" or 3/4" NPT tap..
Those tranny's are a bit fragile,I'd avoid popping the clutch--the belt should get the worst of the beating though..that may have had a band brake on the tranny input or output shaft,or on the axle or sprocket..you can fab up some "scrub" brakes easily like a go-cart uses that rub on the tires,I made that setup for the Rugg,had to have 2 scrubs,one on each rear wheel--one was not enough,and it would slide sideways ,it needed two!..
Run the engine till its good and HOT,at least ten minutes,preferably under a load,mow with it or drive the tractor,etc..then get some Liquid Wrench or similar penetrant,and spray it good at the threads..then LEAVE it running if possible,and use a pipe wrench,vise grips,channel lock pliers,etc,to apply firm steady torque to the pipe,and try not to squash it if possible..apply more penetrant if needed..might need to do this several times..you'll feel the pipe start turning when you douse it with the penetrant,it shrinks it a bit!..
Ifound after about 30 seconds,the pipe began to unscrew from the heat and vibration,and then came out easily,I was surprised..usually I ended up breaking the pipe off in the exhaust port and had to resort to using a cold chisel to carefully peel the pipe inward and cave it in so it could be removed,then clean the threads with a 1/2" or 3/4" NPT tap..
Those tranny's are a bit fragile,I'd avoid popping the clutch--the belt should get the worst of the beating though..that may have had a band brake on the tranny input or output shaft,or on the axle or sprocket..you can fab up some "scrub" brakes easily like a go-cart uses that rub on the tires,I made that setup for the Rugg,had to have 2 scrubs,one on each rear wheel--one was not enough,and it would slide sideways ,it needed two!..
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