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Discussion Starter #1
I have a couple 5HP Briggs tanks I want coated; both were engines I got that had fuel left in them for too long, run if I "feed" then thru the air intake but won't draw; I had the same prob w/ the 5 HP Briggs on my Trac vac when I bought it; I robbed the tank and carb from my brother's logsplitter to get me thru Fall.
I had done the lacquer thinner soak; nothing. swapped to acetone and I got about 1/2 the crap out; so I did a battery acid spak and that did the trick; cleaned it right out. I rinsed it w/water and blew it dry; within a couple days it was rusty again. so I repeated the battery acid treatment. The tank sat all winter (I never did reassemble that carb and tank since I was now done with "leaf patrol" for teh season)

This spring I decided to reassemble "that" tank and carb so I could get the one that belonged on my brother's log splitter back there.
I wound up taking the now-rusty-again tank to a local radiator shop; he "boile dit out" and I guess sandblasted what he could then coated it with something; what, IDK; but it cost me $30! for 1a 3 qt tank! (so does that mean a 25 gallon car tank would cost thousands to have coated there)

I have used that "KREEM" product, back when I had a 76 Honda CB-360 here to work on; it appeared to work OK; but I have heard that stuff don't always "take", even when instructions are excatly followed. (which makes a bad fuel contamination worse)

POR 15 and KBS coatings make a product to coat tanks; but like their "paint over rust" paint products once opened you gotta use it all up or throw it away. I don't like buying a quart of it using <1/2 of it and throwing it away.
I seem to be getting more tanks all the time that could "use" this treatment.
like my recently acquired bob-cat commercial walk behind, my son's Cub Original, for starters. and if that works out maybe I'll try it on my old Plymouths and my 76 Aspen. (I can do it cheaper than "having" it done; but I am concerned about it "turning out" as I hope, as a D-I-Y project)

Right now I have 2 more 5HP Briggs tanks that could use a coat, that I have freshly done the battery acid soak; this time I put a baking soda/water solution as a "neutralizer" (as much soda as I could mix in w/o it all settling out to the bottom of the coffee can I mixed it in) and they are again drying; I gotta see if they rust up so fast like the Trac vac tank did.

Anyone have exp with a product from Bill Hirsch? Supposedly you can coat a tank and pour the unused part back into the can and re use it. I like that idea.

What other tank coating products are available?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I just ordered some Bill hirsch this morning.... since it was the only one that claimed resistance to alcohol based fuel (it seems I cant find anything local that doesn't have at least 10%) AND that I can reuse. POR has to be all used up on teh 1st use.
 

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Kreem is resistance to alcohol and octane boost, but it is a pain to do. Takes like 3 days to do it right. You also can pour it back in the bottle and reuse it for another tank. I have some I've used 3 times. I have one tank I lined 5 years ago and still holding up good. I'm not saying it's the best, But I've had good luck with it....so far.

Lets us know how you like the stuff you having coming.
 

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Kreem is resistance to alcohol and octane boost, but it is a pain to do. Takes like 3 days to do it right. You also can pour it back in the bottle and reuse it for another tank. I have some I've used 3 times. I have one tank I lined 5 years ago and still holding up good. I'm not saying it's the best, But I've had good luck with it....so far.

Lets us know how you like the stuff you having coming.


i have used the same stuff as well still holding up also
 

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The voice of reason !
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I've been restoring motorcycles for years and have used just about every type of tank sealer on the market (even the ones you cant get thru normal sources like aircraft fuel cell coatings) and for my money the best I've found to date is Damon Red Coating.

There was an ad In Walnicks Classic Cycle where I found out about it, it's so easy to use and since the tanks were to be repainted anyway the rust removal was a snap using Muriatic Acid.

It strips them down to bare metal in no time, then seal with Damon's and your good to go for a very long time.

Here's the link :

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/RED-...em4151b08eb7QQitemZ280543399607#ht_500wt_1182

And if you don't want to strip the tank thats ok it stops and seals the rust also.

Not sure how the acid would react with a brass or soldered tank but it may work well ?
 

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Some of that stuff works ok I guess but if it is not done correctly it will cost you more time and money than you can imagine. I cant count how many old motorcycles and classic cars I have had to tear down due to that stuff. You get one shot at most of those products and if they dont adhere correctly they will wreck your fuel system and sometimes more. To me that stuff is just another magical fix in a bottle that is more like a band aid on the real problem, the need for a new tank. If any customers car I work on has rust issues in the tank it gets a new one, no questions asked. IMO the only time to ever use that stuff is if you have searched to the end of the Earth and cant find another tank to fit. Not knocking anyone who uses it or has it, to me its not worth the headache it may cause though.
 

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I just ordered some Bill hirsch this morning.... since it was the only one that claimed resistance to alcohol based fuel (it seems I cant find anything local that doesn't have at least 10%) AND that I can reuse. POR has to be all used up on teh 1st use.
I've been using POR-15 for years. Trust me, if you buy a pint,
or quart, or gallon you DO NOT have to use the whole thing.
You simply take out what you need with a spoon or other implement
and put it in another container, taking care not to get any on
the grooves on the top of the can. Then seal the can back up.
If you do get some on the grooves you can not get the can back
open. This is why people claim that you have to use the whole
quantity at one time. If you get some in the grooves just wipe
it out before you seal the can.

Steve
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I've been using POR-15 for years. Trust me, if you buy a pint,
or quart, or gallon you DO NOT have to use the whole thing.
You simply take out what you need with a spoon or other implement
and put it in another container, taking care not to get any on
the grooves on the top of the can. Then seal the can back up.
If you do get some on the grooves you can not get the can back
open. This is why people claim that you have to use the whole
quantity at one time. If you get some in the grooves just wipe
it out before you seal the can.

Steve
Thats not the only reason regarding using the whole thing; and I have heard 2 ways around that issue;
1) poke 2 holes in the lid and sal them with self tapping screws or
2) put a plastic grocery bag between the lid and the can
AND; put the can in the fridge.
but you can't dip your brush directly in the can as you work (like you said about pouring some out and working from a 2nd container) and if you don't use all that you poured off that can't be poured back.
but that's for "standard" POR 15. I have worked with lots of that stuff.
they have a gas tank sealer product as well; like the others you pour some in your tank slosh it around and dump whatever may be left over. that left over cant be re used. If you are doing a car gas tank there may not be any left over; but doing a 2 qy small engine gas tank, or the 2 gallon tank on my Bunton or Bobcat commercial walk behind mowers, you are not gonna use a whole pint even (smallest qty they sell their product in) so I would not want to pay $18/pt+ 12 to have it shipped and have to throw away 1/2 a can; I may as well pay the $30 to have the local radiator shop coat it for me with whatever unknown product he uses; I had him do a 3 qt tank for me that is off my 5 HP Briggs that is on my Trac Vac and that's what he charged me.
this way I can do several tanks as needed for that same $30.
But, rusty varnish and barnacle filled tanks seem to be the latest "epidemic" among engines I have acquired lately. I'd like to be able to do the treatment myself as necessary, but I am not gonna buy another can each time.

I just bought the quart from Bill Hirsch yesterday pint 1s $18+12 to ship; qt was $26+13 to ship; less than double; a gallon is $81 + 15 to ship;
depending on how well this works out on the small engines I have to coat I may buy a gallon to do the tanks in my old Plymouths before I re install them.

I have heard both good and bad about POR KBS Coatings' product and the KREEM product about not sticking and then as it peels, it clogs the fuel pickup and filters; I can believe it as I have had regular POR that holds like Fort Knox and other times peel off like Saran Wrap; and I usually don't do just one piece at a time; when I paint POR I do alot of pieces together. and some pieces hold fine while others dont out of the same batch.

I did the whole suspension of my Plymouth Volare (engine crossmember, control arms leaf springs, shackles, and more) and so far they have gone from the driveway where they got painted to the attic; and while most of it held fine there were a few pieces that rust came thru or they peeled upon sitting; makes me wonder how well itll hold up actually exposed to the elements once I get that car back together. I did the regular POR and then went over it with the Chassis Black, because of what they say about the regular stuff and exposure to ultraviolet.

if external parts don't "hold" they look ugly; if a gas tank don't hold that causes alot of worse problems.

the Bill Hirsch is the only stuff that claims to be alcohol resistant and also the excess can be poured back in the can for future use also it takes a different solvent (MEK) than the others; it's comparable in cost so I'll try it and see.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
OK; as far as tank cleaning agents; I have a 4th B&S hor shaft, carb-mount tank to coat; (another that has sat for who knows how long with old gas )I bought this one from a garage sale; supposedly freshly re rung (the valve ports look that clean, so I can believe it) but the old guy couldn't get it to suck fuel; only run when dribbling fuel from the throat; I pd about the cost of a gasket set for the engine.

I have had success cleaning metal tanks before by letting them sit, filled with battery acid "recycled" from a battery that I sent to a recycler; I am on my 2nd tank with this particular "batch" of acid;
does virgin (new) acid work faster? How much strength does it lose with each use? this one wasn't even as bad as the last one and I'm on my 2nd overnite of letting it sit; I got the bottom clean but the side between the bottom and the seam has some flakey looking buildup on it that dont wanna come off. I poured the acid from a few batteries into a drain pan and then into 2 former windshield solvent bottles just for jobs like this;
the last tank I had trouble getting the inside of the "roof" of the tank clean; I actually had to fill the tank and flip it in a drain pan, and fill the pan basically soaking the whole tank; and when I put my finger into the tank thru the fill hole the "roof" still felt "rough and rusty"; the underside of the roof can't be seen thru the fill hole. I finally said "screw it" and went ahead w/the baking soda solution wash and the coating;
can I just get the "heavy stuff" and go ahead and coat it and expect the coating to hold tight to the inside of the tank once dry?

I have found that even with a baking soda wash after the acid if I don't coat them, they do tend to rust up quite quickly;
 

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Discussion Starter #13
OK I got this one clean; just had to let the acid sit in it for 2-1/2 days straight (periodically pouring it off and water rinsing it to check progress then dump teh water and back in goes the acid;
 
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