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Got em mounted on the XT3

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Just kidding :D

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I see that McMaster Carr has 1" bore x 1.25" OD x 1.5" length and 1/8" flange thickness bushings. Any reason they would not work?
That's a lot of bushing. More chance of galling.
 

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That's a lot of bushing. More chance of galling.
Actually, I think it dramatically reduces the chance of galling. M/C chart indicates dynamic radial load rating of 1500 PSI at 60 RPM for the 3/4" tall version of that bushing and 3000 PSI at 60 RPM for the 1.5" version.
 

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Actually, I think it dramatically reduces the chance of galling. M/C chart indicates dynamic radial load rating of 1500 PSI at 60 RPM for the 3/4" tall version of that bushing and 3000 PSI at 60 RPM for the 1.5" version.
I was thinking more about more difficulty getting them properly greased. The longer bronze kingpin bushings in big trucks I used to work on had grease grooves in them to allow for proper lubrication.

I could be wrong but that just seems like a lot of bushing for such a small area.
 

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Discussion Starter #66
Some interesting thoughts guys, I'll share what my kingpins have been doing. I machined the oversized ones I bought to OEM numbers except 1" OAL, but noticed about a week ago the right top bushing was riding up against the snap ring. I tapped in back into place with a 1/4" pin punch, I may have a little too much grease in the area but there was grease both inside and outside the kingpin bushing. When I machine the set for the 3205, I am going to leave the flange thickness on the right side bushings bigger to use up some of that play. With the angle of the kingpins that upward push would be reasonable and does tell me that the kingpins have not worn an indent into the new bushing yet.

And to your point Steve, I will machine grease retaining and grease pressure relieving grooves in the 3205's bushings.

Joelk, I don't think the extra 1/2" of bushing will hurt anything, and it may stop or slow the upward push of the bushings. Give them a shot and let us know, please.

Bill

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Yeah Bill it's impossible to say on the extra length w/o trying it but I'd feel more comfortable with grease grooves.

When I started working on trucks we used hand reamed bronze bushings. They went to no ream plastic in the 90s which was junk and we couldn't even get bronze.

Found out about some awesome steel bushings made by Kaiser and started getting them. They are a spiral spring, twist in, grease follows the spiral, and they shrink down in size as they wear via the spiral. Not relevant but just thought I'd share as I thought it was the neatest thing I'd seen WRT bushings. We put them in and I never took a set out.


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Discussion Starter #70
Steve, if you have any rubbing issues it will be to the inside against your bucket mount. The hubs have very long studs so you can space the wheels out if you need to.

Bill
 

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Steve, if you have any rubbing issues it will be to the inside against your bucket mount. The hubs have very long studs so you can space the wheels out if you need to.

Bill
Yeah, I was looking at spacers and they are more expensive than wheels. But I do see the advantage to spacers is having the ability to throw on another wheel w/o having to dismount/mount a tire.

Just submitted my order to Grainger for bushings and the thrust bearings to do the PMPS mod to the 3240. Parts supposed to be ready for pickup on Mon. My next day off is Tue so I may do the conversion then.
 

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Discussion Starter #74
Steve, this is the link to what I bought. But price is up a bit. I paid 17.85.


Bill
 

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Steve, this is the link to what I bought. But price is up a bit. I paid 17.85.


Bill
Now I'm finding them. 8 or 12mm on Amazon for a similar price. Once I get the hubs on and check clearances I'll have a better idea on which way they need to go. Thanks Bill.

I just went out and measured the studs with the hub mounted and there is 12mm of wheel studs sticking out from the nuts when they are run up to the wheel. A 12mm spacer would put the wheels out 1/2" and the lug nuts would be flush with the ends of the wheel studs.

My FIL picked up the 4 mounted wheel and tires from the golf cart shop but couldn't use them. He picked the worst 4 he could find I think. All the wheels are bent and 3 of the tires are flat. One tire has the sides worn off of it and a sidewall puncture. Another with a leaking plug in the edge of the tread at the sidewall. #facepalm#
 

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Discussion Starter #76
The studs on the hubs I installed are 2" long, and with my custom wheels I needed to use lug nuts that had closed ends. So the 10mm ones worked out great for me.

Bill
 

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Discussion Starter #77
Steve, have you got the installation of the 4 bolt hubs installed on the 3240? I bought a 4 inch long piece of steel tubing, that is 1" ID x 1.25" OD on Ebay for $14.75. I like your steel spacer welded in place. But after looking at things, I think you can install the 4 bolt hubs to your XT3, without too much trouble. You will have to drill a 5/16 hole in the end of your spindles about 2" deep, tap it to 3/8" threads. Grind off the stop washer and then take a piece of the 1" x 1.25" spacer and grind out a notch on the top to slide over and around the curve of the XT3 spindle. You should have enough room for the 4 bolt hubs when the area where the stop washer was welded and whatever straight area is beyond that is added to the mix. You actually won't even have to weld it in place if you don't want to, as the notch will hold it in place.

Bill
 

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Steve, have you got the installation of the 4 bolt hubs installed on the 3240? I bought a 4 inch long piece of steel tubing, that is 1" ID x 1.25" OD on Ebay for $14.75. I like your steel spacer welded in place. But after looking at things, I think you can install the 4 bolt hubs to your XT3, without too much trouble. You will have to drill a 5/16 hole in the end of your spindles about 2" deep, tap it to 3/8" threads. Grind off the stop washer and then take a piece of the 1" x 1.25" spacer and grind out a notch on the top to slide over and around the curve of the XT3 spindle. You should have enough room for the 4 bolt hubs when the area where the stop washer was welded and whatever straight area is beyond that is added to the mix. You actually won't even have to weld it in place if you don't want to, as the notch will hold it in place.

Bill
That's a great idea Bill. I haven't done it yet because the tire/wheel combos I have are all flats save for one that had a flat due to the bent rim that I hammered back to getting a bead seal. My FIL picked total junk when he went to the golf cart shop and they let you pick what you want and as many as you want free. I may get up there tomorrow and get something that's not flat.

I did put tubes in both front XT3 tires so I'm fine with it as is for now. Probably will convert the 3205 next.
 

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I had trouble finding spacers that the OD wasn't too big so today I just built some. Bought a cutting board at the resale shop and cut some out of it. Broke the bead on the tire that needs a tube, sanded and painted the wheel as it had black paint splotchy sprayed on it. I hope to do the conversion tomorrow.

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