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Discussion Starter #1
Hi, still working on some of the issues on my Model L8 (double checked and I think it's a 1974). The problem I'm having is with disengaging the PTO from the remote handle. I can use the handle to engage the PTO and things are fine. But when I try to pull back on the handle to disengage, it won't turn the round piece around to disengage. I've reverted to stopping the tractor and simply taking a pair of channel locks and rotating it to disengage. Mine does not have a plate that goes from post to post like the one in the picture from the manual I posted. It just bots on from the right bolt as you look at the tractor from the front. And I tightened that down to ensure that the arm that fits over the dowel isn't loose. But it still won't turn it around to disengage.

I was reading this thread - http://www.mytractorforum.com/24-gravely/1028441-1949-gravely-model-l-pto-issue-2.html to understand some of the issues. But, my question is, given I can disengage by using channel locks, does that suggest the innards of the PTO are working and this might be a problem with the arm? Or maybe I need to fabricate something so it is setup like the picture in the manual? My gut tells me that even if I had that setup it won't turn it around to disengage. It's like it rotates too far around and then the arm doesn't have the leverage the way it's designed. I hope that makes sense! Just wanted to get any immediate thoughts. I'm also ready to weld on a small rod that I can use to disengage - i guess like an older version.

Screen Shot 2016-09-26 at 1.49.06 PM.jpg
 

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Daryl G
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gravelyweb,
I am subscribing to this thread as my 1974 also is behaving like yours. Part of the shipper shaft on mine is a polymer material (possibly nylon). Another component, the shipper shaft body, is also out of the same material - this be contributing to our problems (this is, of course, assuming yours is constructed with the same materials).

I recently removed my rotary cutter and disassembled, cleaned, lubricated, and adjusted the shipper shaft assembly as per the instructions. It works better than before (it engages fine but disengagement is a crapshoot) though all is not well.
 

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The PTO engagement is a poor design at best, worse if you don't have a remote lever as the operator is now dangerously close to the operating implement.

I've found that sometimes trying to disengage the PTO while the high/low is in gear as well the tractor being in a higher then idle Rpm can make the process harder.

The shipper shaft has an adjustment, the manual can describe it better than I can, I wonder if the shaft is binding?


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Can you post a couple of photos of your PTO setup?

With a remote PTO lever, you pull to engage and push to dis-engagage.

PTOfix.jpg

PTOfix2.jpg

PTOfix3.jpg

PTOfix4.jpg


fireant911, more than likely your Teflon guide is your problem. Gravely tried the new wonder material and then gave up on it. Richards's still sells cast iron shipper shaft guides.

Roger,
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Here are a couple pictures - it's pushing it in to disengage that is the problem. No doubt the design seems weak. And I'll look in the manual for the adjustments that can be made.

ModelL_PTO_1.JPG

ModelL_PTO_2.JPG
 

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My guess is that the detent balls and spring are giving you grief because of wear to the shipper body.

That whole original setup is gimpy at best. I could tell you horror stories about that original remote PTO design. Look at how the pivot bolt is bent. That design caused me so much grief that I swore off two wheel tractors for years. It wasn't until my son got a 5665 that I changed my mind.

Either make or buy what you need to add the plate as Beaner has done. Always use nylock nuts. Done right, your PTO shifting problems will be gone with the wind and will stay away.
 

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Daryl G
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beaner2u,
Is the "one possible fix" pictures simply a 'beefier' version of the original design?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
And if I could add on to fireant911's question, is that sleeve something available at the big box stores? That looks like some real metal versus the crap you might get at lowes or home depot.

Btw, I'm kind of laughing to myself as write this... because the truth is that working on this tractor is more of a fun project than a need. As I mowed the lawn this weekend with the 5660, I wondered why I was bothering with anything on the Model L. But it's hard not to tinker with things. I have been watching the electrolysis threads mainly because I see a possible excuse to pull out the welder and to paint something... :/
 

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'One Possible Fix' is homemade with cold rolled stock from TCS or Lowes, nice if you have a drill press and a grinder. The sleeve is made from common 1/2" tube, and that also works to hold the heat shields off the top of old T heads.

I do not think home made is beefier than the 'last' improvement that Gravely came out with for two wheelers, but maybe a little cheaper than buying the pieces parts from Gravely.

Somehow the left bolt holding gravelyweb's shipper shaft guide does not look stock to me. If someone drilled and tapped the casting for a larger bolt, it starts a whole new ball game.

Roger,
 

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Daryl G
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Roger,
I hate to hijack gravelyweb's thread more than I already have but I need to thank you for the pictures you post. I have referenced your photographs on several occasions already and these are really, REALLY helpful. Your responses are also of great benefit to me... so, I wish to simply say thank you for the time, effort, and knowledge you so freely share.
 

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I have to ask, where do the nylock nuts end up?
I'm guessing inside the advance casting, but want to be sure as I have the one bolt system, and that one bolt keeps loosening up, making disengagement impossible from the controls.

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Straick,

I mounted my fix with the nylocks nuts inside the casting. I never tried with the bolts coming up from inside. It would probably work if you held your tongue just right. Either way you need a wrench inside the advance casting holding a piece of hardware.

Later on Gravely made a special bar with stamped square holes for the inside of the advance casting, they used carriage bolts from inside, you would still need to hold it in place while starting hardware. I could not stamp square holes in my part, and did not wish to buy the part from Gravely.

Roger,
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I picked up some parts at Tractor Supply yesterday! Appreciate the detail on what parts to get (bolt sizes, etc). Hope to work on this over the weekend.
 

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I thought about doing this mod but my shifter magically straightened up and started acting right.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
So I started looking at this. My bolts do seem to go down into the casting - they thread in. So I went back and got shorter bolts. Another question, beaner2u, did you have to grind down the little tab that sticks up to catch the shifter arm? Because on mine, it would catch the new plate - it's slightly higher. If I raise the new plate, then it leaves slack in the shifter arm and kind of defeats the purpose. I do think the shifter piece is a bit worn - that oblong cutout that catches the tab. I'm going to use the one from the parts tractor - it looks to be in better shape. As i'm tying this, I'm now wondering if the bolts on the parts tractor thread into the casting - I'll check in the morning. Anyway, so this is going to take a slightly different bolts, etc. I'll repost when I figure out more tomorrow.
 

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Yes, the pin that sticks up can be trimmed.

It's entirely possible that worn parts are causing your issues, though typically worn PTO parts time to cause the PTO to disengage without command.

Attached are photos of my L with Rogers suggested mod, works very well.




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I just came across this thread but all mine has is the 'in & out' throw-lever or "stick job" on it. Oh well another day another problem probably ....dont wanna get ahead of myself lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
cmeyers77 - thanks for posting the pic. I guess the tab would have to be trimmed. I'll grind it down in line with the thickness of the linkage.

Gerrard - if this doesn't work I'm planning to weld a small piece of bar to it and call it a day. As mentioned early in the thread, if I take channel locks I can just turn it to disengage - and easily. I use the channel locks mainly to get around it to turn not necessarily for the force.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I just thought I would add some notes on this. So, I did get a spacer and bolted down a plate across the top. I had to trim down that tab on the shifter body as suggested. I would add that the round spacer I added had to be trimmed way down to prevent the shifter arm from hitting it when turning - more than I expected. In fact, while not the best move, I trimmed the end of the shifter arm a little (I had a spare in case I screwed it up). And, as previously noted, like cmeyers77 picture, mine bolts down from the top.

But, in may case, this didn't solve the problem. When I disengage the PTO and the shifter body rotates around it seems to go too far around - to a point where pushing the shifter rod won't rotate the shifter body because it doesn't seem to have the leverage to rotate from that point. If I turn the shifter body slightly with channel locks, I can then engage with the shift arm. I need to look inside to see if something is worn - I have to assume there is. In the mean time, I took the lazy way out. I welded a washer on the shifter rod (where it goes through the bracket that holds the handlebar mid point on the tractor) so I can't push too far and rotate the shifter body too far when disengaging. With that, it works (for now).
 
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