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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Went to buy some gaskets and seals yesterday. They had the crankshaft seals, carb gaskets and oil filler o-ring but not the breather or sump gasket. I ordered the breather upgrade kit and sump gasket last night. They'll be here the first of next week. This morning I pulled the old top seal and promptly screwed up the new one when I got it started crooked. Then I pulled the sump off and found a place where it looks like the gasket had been sucked into the engine, bottom in picture. Need to get another seal and remove all the old sump gasket while I wait on the ordered parts. I did sell the Troybilt engine for $125 so I don't have much money in this thing if it doesn't work out.
Cannon
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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Today I cleaned all the old sump gasket off the case halves. I took a spray bottle of diesel fuel and washed out the sump. I wasn't out long, it's been in the 30's and rainy all day. I got a new top seal, the parts guy said be careful it was the last one he had in stock.
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What is the new breather gasket design? What is different?

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
The sump gasket came yesterday so I put the case back together this morning. I put a thin coat of Permatex 2 on both sides of the gasket hoping that will at least keep it stuck in place. I also installed the top crank seal. I was more careful to get it started straight this time. The socket I have that was the right size to finish driving the seal in hit the crank before the seal was in far enough. I found that a piece of 1 1/2 inch PVC was the right size so I finished up with it. Not the best material but I used a rubber hammer and didn't hit it very hard. I took the arm off the governor to remove the sump, I think now that was a mistake. Probably should have removed the spring and not had to reset the arm. The breather plate and gasket should be here next week, I'm not going to get anything else in the way before I get that on.
Cannon
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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Worked on the LX277 engine a while this afternoon. Installed the new breather kit, stator, flywheel and carb. After I got the carb on I set the governor arm and started putting the control plate back on. While I was putting it on the governor spring fell out on the bench so I had to take it back off, fix that and put it on again. For some reason I can't get the carb off without taking the control plate loose.
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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
I got it back together enough to put it on the test stand and run it. I got the low speed jet adjusted so it will idle at low speed and runs smooth at full RPM. I cranked it 3 times and every time it smoked at startup then cleared up. After running it and letting it set a while I did find some oil on the stand. It was on the bottom of the engine around the new lower crank seal. The governor shaft seal is leaking, I'm going to change it before I change the crank seal again. The fuel pump bracket is broken so I gravity fed the carb, I'm going to try to weld the bracket instead of ordering another one.
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Can't really gauge the size, as I don't know the part, but that looks like it can either be welded or brazed back together.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
I got the old governor shaft seal out and called around looking for a new one. No one had it in stock so I decided to order one. I made up a list of 4 or 5 other parts I need to spread the shipping cost some but even so I paid $10 shipping on $30 worth of parts. Now I just hope one of the parts is not backordered for a month.
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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
The governor shaft seal came yesterday so this afternoon after it temp got above freezing I put it in. I installed the governor arm on the shaft, put the air filter housing and flywheel cover on then set it off the bench. If it warms up tomorrow I'll crank it and see if it's still leaking anywhere. I think I've changed every thing on it that could leak but that don't mean it won't.
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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
I ran the engine a while yesterday. It was running a little rough so I pulled the left plug wire and it made no difference. Put the left plug wire back on and pull the right and engine dies. It has good spark on the left, I put a new plug in it and it's still not firing. I removed the valve cover and both valves are opening and closing. It has a 1 barrel carb so both cylinders should be getting the same fuel mixture. At one point I did take the plug wire off the good cylinder and shoot starting fluid in the carb and it would start on the bad one, run a few seconds and die. dead cylinder has compression. I'm going to try adjusting the valves but after that it's going to the back of the garage. I need the get other mowers ready to start mowing around the first of March. The good news is I think I have the oil leaks fixed.
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Cannon51 what is the updated breather kit part number?
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
The Kawasaki number is #99996-6104. The FH580 and FH500 both use the same kit. I bought both my kits on Amazon for $17.87 each. Post #25 in this thread has the instruction sheet that comes with the kit.
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Thanks Cannon51. Did a little research and tracked it down. John Deere doesn’t show a kit so didn’t know about. Have a FH500V think it might be leaking from.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
I tried adjusting the valves yesterday and it's still running on the right cylinder. With all that oil and dirt caked up in the fins I'm sure this thing must have been running hot. No telling what's wrong with it. I need to get started on some other stuff so I moved it out of the way and started on the deck off the Zero turn.
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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
I got the Zero turn deck cleaned up and brought in the Lx277 deck. I usually take deck welding jobs to someone but sometimes I get to thinking that maybe I can do it with my cheapo HF wire welder. I obviously shouldn't be allowed to own a welder but maybe I have it patched up enough to get another year or 2 out of it. I made a patch for the inside, welded a crack on both sides and used JB Weld to fill the holes outside the patch. There was about an 1/8 inch gap between the patch and the deck shell at the holes. I thought the JB might keep water out of the gap. As you can see I'm not above trying a Half-fast repair.
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You might document the info on that sticker before it's gone, to get the right parts for the deck later (if you haven't already)....
 

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Repairs looks good and practical to me. (y)

As long as it gets some paint over it there's no way it's worse than having done nothing. Plus you never get better without welding more so every job you're not exactly proud of is a stepping stone towards better welds.
 
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