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Discussion Starter #1
My 816S front axle was wobbling all around, not only was the pivot tube worn but the bolt was also loose. I've already got it taken off and out, and I've done some searching on here to find the dimensions of the bushing, but when I get on McMaster Carr there's an overwhelming amount of choices as to what material to get. Does anyone have a link to MMC for the correct bushing for this application? Or should I just get on the horn to Richard's L&G since I need some C8 axle housing gaskets anyway? MMC always seems like the cheapest option but it's a pretty inexpensive part to begin with. What's the best route to take with this?




 

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The bushing should be little longer than the width of the axle. The idea is that the bushing is firmly clamped between the ears of the frame. To get a proper fit, it may have to be made.

I would use a new fine thread bolt and nylock nut.
 

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Call Richard's. Note that there are two sizes of these. Measure the outside diameter of yours so you can get the same one.

As Richard noted, above, The bushing and bolt are intended to remain stationary to each other. The movement is the inside of the axle bore to the outside of the bushing.You want the nut tightened really well to the frame ears.

Looking at your pictures, I would suggest the bushing is still useable. Replace the bolt with a longer one that would not have any threads inside the bushing. If you can get a fine thread grade 8, so much the better. I got several of them over years from my local Ace Hardware.

Get a brake cylinder hone to clean out the axle bore. Not too much, but just enough to clean it. Then use a fine emery to clean the outside of the bushing. Again, try not to remove any material, just enough to clean the surface rust.

If the hone is small enough, do the inside of the bushing, too, but this is less critical. Even a stiff round wire brush would be enough.

Remove the zerk from the axle and clean out the grease channel of any accumulated gunk. Replace the zerk if necessary. When reassembling, grease the outside of the bushing before replacing it. Maybe a very light coat on the bolt, just to retard rusting.

Going forward, be sure the regularly grease this fitting. Periodically check the nut, too.
 

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A steel tube inside of a cast iron axle is the perfect material combination,:fing32:

if you change to another material for the bearing, expect a short service life.
 

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ImageUploadedByMyTractorForum Free App1435663357.164488.jpg

ImageUploadedByMyTractorForum Free App1435663386.867048.jpg

Here is a modification designed to help spread the grease around with the idea of keeping the proper parts moving and others immobile. Comments?
 

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I have an extra good sleeve if you need one. Just measure the length of yours and when I get back home I will measure mine. $3 shipping and it's yours
 

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View attachment 1337209

View attachment 1337217

Here is a modification designed to help spread the grease around with the idea of keeping the proper parts moving and others immobile. Comments?
I've seen several similar mods to the tube. Most were machined grooves of one configuration or another. Yours seems pretty easy to accomplish and just as effective, I suspect.

:fing32:
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I have an extra good sleeve if you need one. Just measure the length of yours and when I get back home I will measure mine. $3 shipping and it's yours
Wow I really appreciate that. It's 3.010" long and between 1.000" and 1.005" OD.
 
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