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Allis Chalmers 5020 4WD front end rebuild

29597 Views 49 Replies 22 Participants Last post by  dave_r
I bought a nice looking Allis Chalmers 5020 4WD in mid-August with less than 600 hours, and installed a loader. The first day I worked it, I saw the left front wheel catch a few times. I stopped work, took it home, and took it apart. A bearing had disintegrated. The fragments from the hard steel inner race chewed up the spur gears and the housing in a hurry. I thought that it would be useful to document the repair here. It's fairly simple. The most difficult problem is finding parts! The phot here shows the large spur gear that is attached to the stub axle.

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Hi Tesch63 and
2487097
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The last step is to bolt the cover, which holds the spur gears and stub axle, to the kin pin housing. It went on easily. Torque the cover bolts to about 20 ft-lbs and the king pin bolts to 60 ft-lbs. There is a little cutout on the axle hub that allows you to access the bolts.

By the way, I forgot to order gaskets, so I made my own.

I had about 2 hours into the one side that I did today - I didn't have any reason to hurry.
I picked up our tractor for my parents and found the right front drive is destroyed. Wanted to know the best places to look for parts. Allison 5020
2497554
Glad to be of help. Hardest part was finding the parts...I have a brand new large gear if you need it.



Mitch
I am having the same problem with my 5020. My bearing disintegrated and chewed up both gears. I was able to find the smaller gear and tried to have a machinist rebuild my big gear. Yeah, no.
I need a new gear. I am having horrible luck to say the least. I live on a farm and am kicking myself. It was all of 40 seconds and all **** broke loose.
I already cleaned everything out and have it all together and using it without 4wd but it is mud season and I need my gear.
how did you get the old bearing out?
Insert the stub axle through the oil seal. Flip the casting over and install two of the bearings. They fit loosely into the bearing pockets in the casting. All it took to seat them was a light tap with a big dowel rod. I bought a sealed bearing to replace the original small unsealed bearing at the top of the casting. I did this because these bearing were rusted badly in both final drive units.
...the post you are quoting is from 9 years ago, and MitchK hasn't logged into the site since 2016. You are unlikely to get a response from that user.
I cajt figure out how to get the blind hole bearing out of the housing
...the post you are quoting is from 9 years ago, and MitchK hasn't logged into the site since 2016. You are unlikely to get a response from that user.
Can you post a pic of it?

Depending on the type of bearing and what's around, there are a variety of pullers you might use, if it's just an outer race for a cone bearing, just welding a bead on the inside can be enough to get it out (as the heat shrinks it a little, so you can quickly pry it out).
I cajt figure out how to get the blind hole bearing out of the housing
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