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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All,

Basic question for many here probably: after draining the fuel filter on my 335 Industrial it would not start. I think there is air in the line. The line going out of the filter towards the pump does spew diesel out when I disconnect it. Usually I can restart the tractor with some ether when I run out of fuel. Not this time.

Someone told me I may have to flip out the battery, disconnect the injectors, start the engine, and reconnect the injectors when the diesel is flowing. This seems a bit of an ordeal to go through after a simple fuel filter drain.

What do you guys recommend doing? Maybe there are some other things to try before. Are there bleed screws on the fuel line? I did bleed the fuel filter, not sure if there are other bleed points, e.g. on fuel pump.

Thank you!

Apologies if this is a repeat question. I could not find the search button. Please if you could just link the other thread.
 

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Did the new filter come with multiple o-rings? If so, and you used them all then that is probably your problem. The filter usually comes as a kit which includes o-rings for several models of tractors and you should only replace the o-rings that came out with your old filter. Another possibility is that the old o-ring at the top of the filter stayed up inside the head of the filter housing and now there are two there when there should only be one.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hi NR! I didn't replace the fuel filter, just unscrewed the screw at the bottom and then screwed it back. It didn't start, so I unscrewed the bleed screw on top, and tightened it back. It still didn't start so I checked if fuel comes through the filter and it did. But still wouldn't start.

I did notice that there was no o ring on the bleed screw. Do you think that may cause this?
 

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Sounds like you just need to bleed the whole system.

I'm not sure if you have an Operators Manual, but the bleeding procedure should be in there.

Here's that way I would do it on a slightly earlier 3 cylinder model with the same basic setup (CAV rotary pump), but yours being newer may have some tricks in the manual.

Crack the the fitting loose on the line from the filter at the pump end and leave it loose until there's no air bubbles and just fuel coming out. Then tighten it back up.

Next, crack the fittings loose on the injector lines one-at-a-time at the end of the line up at the injectors and then have an assistant crank the starter and you watch as the air bubbles and fuel come out and once the air bubbles are gone and it's just fuel tighten the fitting back down while your assistant keeps the starter cranking. By the time you do this to the second fuel injector line the engine should start, then you still want to bleed the last injector line, which you can do while the engine is running on the first two cylinders.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Hi Guys,

Again, just to close the loop on this, N redneck was right again. It took unusually long to get the air bubble out of the system, but nothing else was needed.

This is what ended up working:
- turn fuel shutoff valve off
- take fuel filter off
- fill fuel filter with diesel to the brim
- carefully screw back fuel filter
- open injector 1 and 2
- start engine with ether
- watch fuel spewing form fuel lines at injector while engine is running on ether
- screw incjectors back one by one while engine still running on ether
- an additional 10-15secs running on ether
- finally she is running again on fuel.

I could not get to the 3rd injector, it is under the battery.

Thanks again!
 

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Ether has a much higher explosive force than diesel fuel and can damage the rings and pistons. You should not use ether in a diesel engine except in very small amounts just to aid in starting, and if it needs ether to help it start then it is only going to get worse.

Better to put it in gear and tow it around a field with your truck to spin the engine, both to assist in bleeding and assist in starting. Better yet is to make sure that you have a good strong battery and properly sized cables with clean, bright and tight connections everywhere and use the starter.
 

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I could not get to the 3rd injector, it is under the battery.
The battery tray swings out. Loosen the wing nut (number 18 in the picture below) and the L shaped post (16) should pivot and drop out of the way, and then the entire battery tray swings out on the hinge pin (11). Sometimes the wing nut has been replaced with a regular nut by someone over the years.

 

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Discussion Starter #9
The battery tray swings out. Loosen the wing nut (number 18 in the picture below) and the L shaped post (16) should pivot and drop out of the way, and then the entire battery tray swings out on the hinge pin (11). Sometimes the wing nut has been replaced with a regular nut by someone over the years.

Thanks NR! I did swing it out, but the industrial frame only allows it to swing out far enough to access two of the three injectors.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Ether has a much higher explosive force than diesel fuel and can damage the rings and pistons. You should not use ether in a diesel engine except in very small amounts just to aid in starting, and if it needs ether to help it start then it is only going to get worse.

Better to put it in gear and tow it around a field with your truck to spin the engine, both to assist in bleeding and assist in starting. Better yet is to make sure that you have a good strong battery and properly sized cables with clean, bright and tight connections everywhere and use the starter.
When there is no bubble in the fuel line it starts very well since I replaced the starter in the spring. But this time it took a whole can of ether...I felt bad, but did not have an easy alternative. The bushhog is attached in the back, front loader in the front on the ground. And I did not expect such a difficult start. I still don't understand how it got this bad. I guess there is another post on the horizon for me when I have to replace the seals!
 

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When there is no bubble in the fuel line it starts very well since I replaced the starter in the spring. But this time it took a whole can of ether...I felt bad, but did not have an easy alternative. The bushhog is attached in the back, front loader in the front on the ground. And I did not expect such a difficult start. I still don't understand how it got this bad. I guess there is another post on the horizon for me when I have to replace the seals!
Glad you got it going. Remember if you have to lift the loader or 3pt and the motor wont run, but the starter will crank...

You can run the starter while moving the appropriate lever to raise the implement enough, though slowly.
 
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