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adding power steering question

8328 Views 33 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  leaguedude
Am in the process of acquiring the necessary parts to add power steering to my LGT 165. I will be purchasing a JD318 steering valve and steering cylinder soon. My question is, I plan on tapping into the tractor lift hydraulics with this. Can someone verify if this valve will work, as well as the overall plan.

I would rather not tap into the loader hydraulics if I can avoid it. Of course, if it's better to go that way, i will. thanks
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Well hydraulics are right up my alley, as for the JD valve, I believe they are "close center" won't work for you. You need to use the "power beyond" curcuit ! If you somehow get enough pressure build up(like dead heading a cylinder) on a "return to tank" line you take the risk of blowing the bottom of your loader valve off.
If you have power beyond USE IT ! It is the best option and safest to use.
is the easiest steering unit you could install. Any questions feel free to ask , Keith
PS cut and paste link if it doesn't work:trink40:
Thanks Joe , I have only seen the 318 steering unit and it was just like the "big ones". If it is open center it will work just fine, but then you need to run more hoses and figure out cylinder length, mounting point ,ect ect. Royal pain . I couldn't even imagin trying to do this on the LGT units, frame is a pain to mess with. And the room under the dash area for extra goodies is pretty tight for sure. But if you do rig up P/S I would love to see how you did it!! I have been pondering the idea for a bit, I actually want to install a small pump to my 165 for more hydraulic capacity and leave the transmission pump to just run the trans. I am about to mount a nice little 3 spool valve to it so I can run the deck, 3 point hitch and front/rear aux. circuits.
If the valve has 4 ports it's the easiest one to use, one with 5 ports has a load sensing circuit in it and is not needed.
The JD's like to use a "load sensing " system to better control hydraulic efficiency (less load when not being used) and most all of there systems, atleast newer ones have this. If it has a piston pump it has closed center, if it has a gear pump it may have an "unloader valve" But anything you need for a garden tractor does not need this fancy set-up. All you need is a 4 port steering valve tied into the power beyond (this way it will never effect your steering when the loader valve is used at the same time) and you will be good to go.
What is the GPM on the loader pump ? IF it's under 6gpm I would try and get
one with at least that much, the engine can handle a lot more than that and it will make the entire system faster.
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leaguedude, Is there anyway you can snap me some pics of your 3 point hitch on your tractor? I need to build one for mine and would love a few more ideas as to how they did it at he factory. That tractor you have there is a beautiful piece of machinery for sure! I see why you want P/S. That will be the icing on the cake! Only thing better would be 4wd.
Joe I looked at your pics! Your as crazy as I am !! I love it !! That rig is AWSOME!! I bet that Briggs was a fun project, I did the same thing.
This week I am going to build the 3 point hitch and mount the rear pto gear box set-up I congered up. Should work to reverse the shaft direction and power my roto-tiller. (Bolens shaft driven unit)
I've been toying with the idea of running all my accesseries hydraulicly instead of belt driven. Exspensive idea though, to make it all work correctly and efficeintly I would need to use a varible displacement pump for the different attachments. We'll have too see about that one.
Did you mount your engine solid or did you use the factory frame mounts?
I used the factory mounts with some serious difficulty, I had to actually put the mount plates(cut into 4 seperate pieces) on top of the engine mount flanges to get the engine low enough. Used factory shaft length to trans, had to move mule drive forward 1.5 inches to work. Also had to modify frame tube for starter lug clearance.
Once I get the hydraulics all rigged up and 3 point hitch It'll get a new dash and frame cover and then paint and decals.:trink40:
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That is WAY awsome!! I might do the same thingexcept I'm thinking of mounting a P/S pump to the flywheel side off the shaft adapter I made for the Briggs. I'll take it back off and re-do it a touch to mount a pulley to run a pump.
One thing I did notice is how week the generator is on the engine, might even mount up an alternator too.
I need all the stuff up front to run acessories(pto clutch and both pullies)
This tractor is going to be quite the usable rig when I'm done with it.:trink40:
Definately needed if it's not too much trouble ? Thanks , Keith
AWSOME !! The tape measure is the trick !! OK I have arms,the linkage length (lift arms ceter to center and actuator arm(side the link pulls on to lift the arms) would finish off my questions ;-) Thanks Leaguedude your a life saver(well a trial and era saver is more like it :)
Hi Joe, what length cylinder did you use for your p/s ?
Jordan , you can buy a brand new steering valve for $149 from Surplus Center and a 1x6" cylinder for like $89, less than $250 for the main components. But hoses can get $$$$ . Don't give up , it only takes time and patients and a little $.
Your right Joe , the cylinder might need to be limited, but that extra 1/2 inch of stroke might make it , I took off the steering link from the box and was able to get almost an extra 1" travel in each direction at the spindle before it hit the stops, but if you didn't want to limit the cylinder, just make the spindle arm a touch longer, this would help in a multitude of ways too.
The steering valve has a "powerbeyond circuit built in so it can feed your hyd.valve after the fact.
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