adding power steering question

8329 Views 33 Replies 6 Participants Last post by leaguedude, Sep 30, 2009

leaguedude

Discussion Starter · Aug 17, 2009

Am in the process of acquiring the necessary parts to add power steering to my LGT 165. I will be purchasing a JD318 steering valve and steering cylinder soon. My question is, I plan on tapping into the tractor lift hydraulics with this. Can someone verify if this valve will work, as well as the overall plan.

https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2009081622350264&item=9-4078&catname=

I would rather not tap into the loader hydraulics if I can avoid it. Of course, if it's better to go that way, i will. thanks

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mrfixit82852

· #6 · Aug 19, 2009

If you tee off the supply line, it will not build pressure.

A Power beyond system is and over kill for what you want to do. Running the power steering valve from the return line of the lift cylinder will get the job done.

the Eaton11 pump will give about 500psi at 1.5 gallons at 3600rpm as per the manual.

I run my power steering the same way and have no problems at all with it. as long as the valves are all open centers the system will stay running.

Remember one important thing. The Eaton11 pump needs the return fluid to keep the pump primed. Stop the fluid return completely, the pump will lose power for sure, been there done that.

Joe

leaguedude said:
wow thanks olcowhand. So, I only need the steering valve and cylinder and some lines and fittings and some brackets welded into place. Also, by "after the valve" you mean it's an open center valve or power beyond? Should i tap in with a T between the valve to filter line? Thanks for the very useful info..

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mrfixit82852

· #8 · Aug 19, 2009

Below is a link to my photos in my group. about 33 different photos. With two different power steering valves. One was a JD steering column, I removed it and used a different valve completely

http://tinyurl.com/n7bjmh

http://tinyurl.com/n7bjmh

Joe

leaguedude said:
ok great. thanks joe. I will continue reading and searching for parts. thanks again. Anyone have Photos of their own power steering conversions for our viewing pleasure?

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mrfixit82852

· #11 · Sep 14, 2009

The JD steering valve is open center. I have used one on my ford before, Ran the lift valve and steering valve and series and it worked well

Joe

skyrydr2 said:
Well hydraulics are right up my alley, as for the JD valve, I believe they are "close center" won't work for you. You need to use the "power beyond" curcuit ! If you somehow get enough pressure build up(like dead heading a cylinder) on a "return to tank" line you take the risk of blowing the bottom of your loader valve off.
If you have power beyond USE IT ! It is the best option and safest to use.
http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2009091319062738&item=9-7122&catname=hydraulic
is the easiest steering unit you could install. Any questions feel free to ask , Keith
PS cut and paste link if it doesn't work:trink40:

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mrfixit82852

· #13 · Sep 14, 2009

Below is a link to my photos in my group. about 33 different photos. With two different power steering valves. One was a JD steering column, I removed it and used a different valve completely

I also used a JDH3 valve from a JD420 I believe it came frome. I use it to run the front scoop.

Many photos there to look at.

http://tinyurl.com/n7bjmh

Joe

skyrydr2 said:
Thanks Joe , I have only seen the 318 steering unit and it was just like the "big ones". If it is open center it will work just fine, but then you need to run more hoses and figure out cylinder length, mounting point ,ect ect. Royal pain . I couldn't even imagin trying to do this on the LGT units, frame is a pain to mess with. And the room under the dash area for extra goodies is pretty tight for sure. But if you do rig up P/S I would love to see how you did it!! I have been pondering the idea for a bit, I actually want to install a small pump to my 165 for more hydraulic capacity and leave the transmission pump to just run the trans. I am about to mount a nice little 3 spool valve to it so I can run the deck, 3 point hitch and front/rear aux. circuits.

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mrfixit82852

· #18 · Sep 14, 2009

I welded a plate into the frame to mount the engine. I had to lower it into the frame, and make room for the starter lugs to clear the frame.

I mounted the engine solid to the plate.

I actually used the Stub shaft from the Kohler engine and mounted it to the Briggs engine. I had to lathe out the center to fit over the flywheel nut. then us a file to oblong the mounting holes. It mounted right up ti the existing holes in the Briggs flywheel.

I used a hydraulic pump with about 8GPM flow. The JD H3 valve worked out great, small enough to mount and not be in the way. It operates the front scoop, while I use the hydraulics of the transaxle to run the rear blade and power steering.

I built my own dash so I could use the newer steering valve, a lot more room that way under the dash and away from the drive shaft.

I have put 1000 pounds in that scoop. Right now I am in the process of beefing it up some. I seen some places that needed to be beefed up to take the extra weight. I seem to push it pass it's limits, but that is what I do

Joe

skyrydr2 said:
Joe I looked at your pics! Your as crazy as I am !! I love it !! That rig is AWSOME!! I bet that Briggs was a fun project, I did the same thing.
This week I am going to build the 3 point hitch and mount the rear pto gear box set-up I congered up. Should work to reverse the shaft direction and power my roto-tiller. (Bolens shaft driven unit)
I've been toying with the idea of running all my accesseries hydraulicly instead of belt driven. Exspensive idea though, to make it all work correctly and efficeintly I would need to use a varible displacement pump for the different attachments. We'll have too see about that one.
Did you mount your engine solid or did you use the factory frame mounts?
I used the factory mounts with some serious difficulty, I had to actually put the mount plates(cut into 4 seperate pieces) on top of the engine mount flanges to get the engine low enough. Used factory shaft length to trans, had to move mule drive forward 1.5 inches to work. Also had to modify frame tube for starter lug clearance.
Once I get the hydraulics all rigged up and 3 point hitch It'll get a new dash and frame cover and then paint and decals.:trink40:

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mrfixit82852

· #26 · Sep 17, 2009

The cylinder I used had to long of a stroke. So I modified it to have approximate 5 inch throw.

Down the road I will change the cylinder to a smaller bore cylinder.

Joe

skyrydr2 said:
Hi Joe, what length cylinder did you use for your p/s ?

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mrfixit82852

· #28 · Sep 21, 2009

I believe is can be done using the return line tom run through a cooler. If I can find a small cooler someday I will do it that way.

Joe

tigr9389 said:
I was thinking of doing something similar to that, I was going to put power steering onto a JD317. I was looking at the breakdown of the 318 power steering hook ups, & found out that 2 of the ports go to a cooling unit for the hydraulic fluid.

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mrfixit82852

· #30 · Sep 30, 2009

Jordan

You can use the return line from the transaxle to operate the power steering. Provided your using a open center steering valve. They can be bought used for about $125.00 to $150.00 from ebay. BUT, you have to hope that the top seal does not leak. They do not just sell the seal, you have to buy the complete kit for about $80.00. Hopefully if you buy one it will not leak.

The steering column out of the john Deere tractors, or Simplicity tractors are basically the same. Just as long as they are open centered they will work. You just might lose a little power to the transaxle while your steering, but not much. You have to remember the Eaton11 pump needs to be kept primed to have power. That is the way it is designed.

Even if you find used parts, it will cost about $300.00 to $400.00 between steering valve, cylinder, hydraulic lines.

But well worth the time and money

Joe

CubCadet107 said:
Wow... after reading how complicated and expensive a power steering system is I am so demotivated to do this ! I was hoping to just run the system off of the hydro tranny but that sounds like a bad idea now too :-\ What should I look for for a used valve? Is there a specific type of steering valve that would be easiest to setup?
-Jordan

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mrfixit82852

· #32 · Sep 30, 2009

Do you have a link to this steering valve. Would like to look at it.

also a 1x6 cylinder may not work well.

Joe

skyrydr2 said:
Jordan , you can buy a brand new steering valve for $149 from Surplus Center and a 1x6" cylinder for like $89, less than $250 for the main components. But hoses can get $$$$ . Don't give up , it only takes time and patients and a little $.

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