[leaguedude]

Am in the process of acquiring the necessary parts to add power steering to my LGT 165. I will be purchasing a JD318 steering valve and steering cylinder soon. My question is, I plan on tapping into the tractor lift hydraulics with this. Can someone verify if this valve will work, as well as the overall plan.

https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2009081622350264&item=9-4078&catname=

I would rather not tap into the loader hydraulics if I can avoid it. Of course, if it's better to go that way, i will. thanks

 

[leaguedude]

Just trying to throwing up some random pics for viewing...

 

[olcowhand]

Your hydro lift circuit only flows 2 to 3 gpm, so all flow would divert to steering.
You can do without a priority valve at all & tap into lift circuit AFTER the lift valve. The steering will always get pressure except for any brief second that the lift valve is HELD in a topped out, or bottomed out position. If you tap in ahead of the lift valve, the bottoming or topping backs all the pressure into the steering valve which you do not want, possibly blowing a seal. I have my Massey 1650 tapped after the lift valve assembly & it works fine. The split second when I bottom or top makes little difference & doesn't bother me at all.

 

[leaguedude]

wow thanks olcowhand. So, I only need the steering valve and cylinder and some lines and fittings and some brackets welded into place. Also, by "after the valve" you mean it's an open center valve or power beyond? Should i tap in with a T between the valve to filter line? Thanks for the very useful info..

 

[leaguedude]

also, is 2 to 3 gpm enough to run the power steering comfortably? it's gonna be a 318 valve and cylinder..

 

[mrfixit82852]

If you tee off the supply line, it will not build pressure.

A Power beyond system is and over kill for what you want to do. Running the power steering valve from the return line of the lift cylinder will get the job done.

the Eaton11 pump will give about 500psi at 1.5 gallons at 3600rpm as per the manual.

I run my power steering the same way and have no problems at all with it. as long as the valves are all open centers the system will stay running.

Remember one important thing. The Eaton11 pump needs the return fluid to keep the pump primed. Stop the fluid return completely, the pump will lose power for sure, been there done that.

Joe

wow thanks olcowhand. So, I only need the steering valve and cylinder and some lines and fittings and some brackets welded into place. Also, by "after the valve" you mean it's an open center valve or power beyond? Should i tap in with a T between the valve to filter line? Thanks for the very useful info..

 

[leaguedude]

ok great. thanks joe. I will continue reading and searching for parts. thanks again. Anyone have Photos of their own power steering conversions for our viewing pleasure?

 

[mrfixit82852]

Below is a link to my photos in my group. about 33 different photos. With two different power steering valves. One was a JD steering column, I removed it and used a different valve completely


http://tinyurl.com/n7bjmh

http://tinyurl.com/n7bjmh


Joe

ok great. thanks joe. I will continue reading and searching for parts. thanks again. Anyone have Photos of their own power steering conversions for our viewing pleasure?

 

[leaguedude]

great stuff thanks again. I Will post any progress when some happens..

 

[skyrydr2]

Well hydraulics are right up my alley, as for the JD valve, I believe they are "close center" won't work for you. You need to use the "power beyond" curcuit ! If you somehow get enough pressure build up(like dead heading a cylinder) on a "return to tank" line you take the risk of blowing the bottom of your loader valve off.
If you have power beyond USE IT ! It is the best option and safest to use.
http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2009091319062738&item=9-7122&catname=hydraulic
is the easiest steering unit you could install. Any questions feel free to ask , Keith
PS cut and paste link if it doesn't work:trink40:

 

[mrfixit82852]

The JD steering valve is open center. I have used one on my ford before, Ran the lift valve and steering valve and series and it worked well

Joe

Well hydraulics are right up my alley, as for the JD valve, I believe they are "close center" won't work for you. You need to use the "power beyond" curcuit ! If you somehow get enough pressure build up(like dead heading a cylinder) on a "return to tank" line you take the risk of blowing the bottom of your loader valve off.
If you have power beyond USE IT ! It is the best option and safest to use.
http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2009091319062738&item=9-7122&catname=hydraulic
is the easiest steering unit you could install. Any questions feel free to ask , Keith
PS cut and paste link if it doesn't work:trink40:

 

[skyrydr2]

Thanks Joe , I have only seen the 318 steering unit and it was just like the "big ones". If it is open center it will work just fine, but then you need to run more hoses and figure out cylinder length, mounting point ,ect ect. Royal pain . I couldn't even imagin trying to do this on the LGT units, frame is a pain to mess with. And the room under the dash area for extra goodies is pretty tight for sure. But if you do rig up P/S I would love to see how you did it!! I have been pondering the idea for a bit, I actually want to install a small pump to my 165 for more hydraulic capacity and leave the transmission pump to just run the trans. I am about to mount a nice little 3 spool valve to it so I can run the deck, 3 point hitch and front/rear aux. circuits.

 

[mrfixit82852]

Below is a link to my photos in my group. about 33 different photos. With two different power steering valves. One was a JD steering column, I removed it and used a different valve completely

I also used a JDH3 valve from a JD420 I believe it came frome. I use it to run the front scoop.

Many photos there to look at.


http://tinyurl.com/n7bjmh



Joe

Thanks Joe , I have only seen the 318 steering unit and it was just like the "big ones". If it is open center it will work just fine, but then you need to run more hoses and figure out cylinder length, mounting point ,ect ect. Royal pain . I couldn't even imagin trying to do this on the LGT units, frame is a pain to mess with. And the room under the dash area for extra goodies is pretty tight for sure. But if you do rig up P/S I would love to see how you did it!! I have been pondering the idea for a bit, I actually want to install a small pump to my 165 for more hydraulic capacity and leave the transmission pump to just run the trans. I am about to mount a nice little 3 spool valve to it so I can run the deck, 3 point hitch and front/rear aux. circuits.

 

[leaguedude]

that's good info guy's thanks I've been working out the kinks on the front axle and spindles. I purchased a used axle from our friend Poncho and I have been swapping out spindles, new front wheel bearings(dealership), and made up some new bushings on the front axle center mount.(holes wore out to bigger size) Now that i have the font axle in check and tightened up i will be moving on to the Power Steering setup.

What is the difference between the 4 and 5 hose JD steering valves? Also, which one would be best suited for my needs? Again thanks for all the info and will post pics soon. Ps Joe, i have been a member of your wonderful group for 3-4 months now. thanks again.....

 

[skyrydr2]

If the valve has 4 ports it's the easiest one to use, one with 5 ports has a load sensing circuit in it and is not needed.
The JD's like to use a "load sensing " system to better control hydraulic efficiency (less load when not being used) and most all of there systems, atleast newer ones have this. If it has a piston pump it has closed center, if it has a gear pump it may have an "unloader valve" But anything you need for a garden tractor does not need this fancy set-up. All you need is a 4 port steering valve tied into the power beyond (this way it will never effect your steering when the loader valve is used at the same time) and you will be good to go.
What is the GPM on the loader pump ? IF it's under 6gpm I would try and get
one with at least that much, the engine can handle a lot more than that and it will make the entire system faster.

 

[skyrydr2]

leaguedude, Is there anyway you can snap me some pics of your 3 point hitch on your tractor? I need to build one for mine and would love a few more ideas as to how they did it at he factory. That tractor you have there is a beautiful piece of machinery for sure! I see why you want P/S. That will be the icing on the cake! Only thing better would be 4wd.

 

[skyrydr2]

Joe I looked at your pics! Your as crazy as I am !! I love it !! That rig is AWSOME!! I bet that Briggs was a fun project, I did the same thing.
This week I am going to build the 3 point hitch and mount the rear pto gear box set-up I congered up. Should work to reverse the shaft direction and power my roto-tiller. (Bolens shaft driven unit)
I've been toying with the idea of running all my accesseries hydraulicly instead of belt driven. Exspensive idea though, to make it all work correctly and efficeintly I would need to use a varible displacement pump for the different attachments. We'll have too see about that one.
Did you mount your engine solid or did you use the factory frame mounts?
I used the factory mounts with some serious difficulty, I had to actually put the mount plates(cut into 4 seperate pieces) on top of the engine mount flanges to get the engine low enough. Used factory shaft length to trans, had to move mule drive forward 1.5 inches to work. Also had to modify frame tube for starter lug clearance.
Once I get the hydraulics all rigged up and 3 point hitch It'll get a new dash and frame cover and then paint and decals.:trink40:

 

[mrfixit82852]

I welded a plate into the frame to mount the engine. I had to lower it into the frame, and make room for the starter lugs to clear the frame.

I mounted the engine solid to the plate.

I actually used the Stub shaft from the Kohler engine and mounted it to the Briggs engine. I had to lathe out the center to fit over the flywheel nut. then us a file to oblong the mounting holes. It mounted right up ti the existing holes in the Briggs flywheel.

I used a hydraulic pump with about 8GPM flow. The JD H3 valve worked out great, small enough to mount and not be in the way. It operates the front scoop, while I use the hydraulics of the transaxle to run the rear blade and power steering.

I built my own dash so I could use the newer steering valve, a lot more room that way under the dash and away from the drive shaft.

I have put 1000 pounds in that scoop. Right now I am in the process of beefing it up some. I seen some places that needed to be beefed up to take the extra weight. I seem to push it pass it's limits, but that is what I do


Joe

Joe I looked at your pics! Your as crazy as I am !! I love it !! That rig is AWSOME!! I bet that Briggs was a fun project, I did the same thing.
This week I am going to build the 3 point hitch and mount the rear pto gear box set-up I congered up. Should work to reverse the shaft direction and power my roto-tiller. (Bolens shaft driven unit)
I've been toying with the idea of running all my accesseries hydraulicly instead of belt driven. Exspensive idea though, to make it all work correctly and efficeintly I would need to use a varible displacement pump for the different attachments. We'll have too see about that one.
Did you mount your engine solid or did you use the factory frame mounts?
I used the factory mounts with some serious difficulty, I had to actually put the mount plates(cut into 4 seperate pieces) on top of the engine mount flanges to get the engine low enough. Used factory shaft length to trans, had to move mule drive forward 1.5 inches to work. Also had to modify frame tube for starter lug clearance.
Once I get the hydraulics all rigged up and 3 point hitch It'll get a new dash and frame cover and then paint and decals.:trink40:

 

[skyrydr2]

That is WAY awsome!! I might do the same thingexcept I'm thinking of mounting a P/S pump to the flywheel side off the shaft adapter I made for the Briggs. I'll take it back off and re-do it a touch to mount a pulley to run a pump.
One thing I did notice is how week the generator is on the engine, might even mount up an alternator too.
I need all the stuff up front to run acessories(pto clutch and both pullies)
This tractor is going to be quite the usable rig when I'm done with it.:trink40:

 

[leaguedude]

that is great info on the valve. Here are some photos that i have of the 3ph. Can get you some close ups later if needed.