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ive been toying with the idea of making a GT specifically designed for plowing snow in the winter months. you gotta have the duals if your gonna buld one for plowing itself. then i decided, well, when im plowing at night, so i dont get nailed, and for looks, you need to add a couple of lights.

just so happens, i got the northen tool catalog today! what timing?! after dinner i took a browse through the trailer lights. i found some nice ones. i narrowed it down to this one: http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200324535_200324535
it says it operates from 9-16 volts. if i ran two of these, on an older cub cadet with the starter/genarator type system, i would need another power source wouldnt i? i figured id need some sort of alternator to keep up with the power demand. so lets figure i do need an alt. i could hook it up to the PTO and turn it on when the lights were on right? then i could just wire the alt into the battery and tie the lights into the battery with a switch on the dash.

with these lights being ones with an optional turn signal, is there a possible way to wire them to they are flashers sometimes and just solid others? i would need some kind of relay wouldnt i?

throw in your suggestions. im open to ideas of any kind.
sorry for the dumb questions..im new at this wiring stuff:thanku:
 

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That page doesn't mention how much amperage those draw, so it is hard to say. I think that you would get away with it. As far as the blinker function, I don't know. I have never wired something like that. I had a Bolens 1050 that actually had 2 of the starter generators mounted on it to supply more power. The second one was wired completely independent from the first.

Jason
 

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the amp draw on dim is under 1 amp, they are LED you could power them off of a garage door opener battery if you wanted, thats how little amps they take,same goes for bright

you can wire in a flasher to get them to flash, but you have to get a eletronic flasher not a thermal, just the 2 blade one will work
 

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... you gotta have the duals if your gonna buld one for plowing itself.
I'd forego that one right away and save the money for LED lighting and a set of chains. Duals are great for traction in the dirt but not so hot in snow/ice. Singles w/proper weight and chains will serve you far better this Winter.'

Funny, I was just looking at the page below for lights before I logged on here:

http://vehiclelight.com/clli.html

Might be an alternative...
 

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I'd forego that one right away and save the money for LED lighting and a set of chains. Duals are great for traction in the dirt but not so hot in snow/ice. Singles w/proper weight and chains will serve you far better this Winter.'

Funny, I was just looking at the page below for lights before I logged on here:

http://vehiclelight.com/clli.html

Might be an alternative...
I agree. Dual allow for wider weight distribution which means less pressing down on a small area which ultimately means less traction (at least that's how it was explained to me). You are best off with relatively narrow tires and plenty of weight.

Jason
 

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I agree. Dual allow for wider weight distribution which means less pressing down on a small area which ultimately means less traction (at least that's how it was explained to me). You are best off with relatively narrow tires and plenty of weight.

Jason
yea, thats what i been told too when i was wondering why my YT has narrow tires when i was replacing them with new one ....... im used to running performance cars at a drag strip where you want wide as can be to grip, compairing a drag setup to a tractor setup with tires is like apples and oranges

BTW NICE NAME :fing32: :biglaugh:
 

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Discussion Starter #8

am i right there?
 

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from your positive source, to your "flasher" switch, run wire to one terminal on the flasher, then one wire from the other flasher terminal to one light, branch off that wire with another one for the other light, i soder and use heatshrink

for the dim (running) mode, just leave the flasher out of the set up, i would just branch of my headlight wire, thats how i did mine

:thThumbsU
 

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And don't forget, the VERY FIRST thing that should be hooked to the POS terminal of your battery (or to any accessory power outlet you plug these into) should be an in-line fuse holder/w a fuse of suitable amperage (I wouldn't think more than a 2 or 3 amp 12 volt fuse...) or fusible link... Safety first! Of course, if it were me, I'd be putting a switch after the fuse, before the relay, just so I could turn them off when I didn't need them....
 

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And don't forget should be an in-line fuse or fusible link... Safety first!
DANG how did i forget that, and im the one always doing peoples wire work, and always saying bring me a relay and a fuse holder if you want me to do it :banghead3:banghead3:banghead3 :thanku:
 

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My experience - duals don't help, ags don't help. Chains?:thThumbsU

Lights...in my part of Michigan, not too much..if you frit 'em with too much they freeze like rabbits...arms, legs and eyes...and the vehicle maintains speed and direction until they snap out of it :Stop:
 

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Those LED lights draw a very small amount of amperage compared to the incandescent lights we have all used for years. The CC starter/generator should be giving you around 15 amps to do what you need.

The Stop/Turn/Tail lamps have two sets of elements (Diodes) in them. The tail lights are dimmer and are like the ones you see on many trucks. When the second set of elements are activated the light goes to full bright and works just like the tail and brake/turn lights on your car.

You could easily wire the tail lights to stay on as needed and activate the Turn/Brake elements as flashers just like the four way flashers to which you are accustomed.

You should have plenty of electricity from the S/G to operate half a dozen of these lights plus a couple of LED headlights with no problem.

Mike
 

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those tail lights would be pretty cool. you could wire the tail lights on when the key is on and then have a switch and flasher relay on the brake/turn lights.

heres an electronic flasher.
http://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-BP-552-Thermal-Electronic/dp/B000BXMDRY

i have two beehive type amber lights on the front and one red marker light on the back. i want to add another red marker light on the back and then make some kind of removable light pole, maybe with two work lights, one point forward and one backwards.

i think i should switch over to leds marker lights front/back before i add any works lights though. i'll probably use some 35 watt fog lights for work lights.
 

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As others have said there is no need for a seperate alternator. Your tractor will put out plenty of juice to power them.

Here's my light setup for plowing on my Case. I've got a pulse strobe on the top that the camera doesn't catch. I've never had a problem with them draining my battery.

 

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Here is what I did. The flasher is a good idea. I think I will make my taillights flash for safety. These are car driving lights on my blower from the local NAPA store.

318-47 1.JPG
 

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Discussion Starter #18
snotrocket:id kill to have that case with a setup like that! i bet its nice siting inside that cab in the snowstorms!

thanks for the ideas guys.
another question..how many of these:http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200009774_200009774
do you guys think i could run along with the taillights and ample charging power?
 

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since they are LED's as many as you want pretty much, they prob draw about .050 amps or 50ma however you want to look at it

the ones you first posted should draw .060 dim and .450 bright
 

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ive been toying with the idea of making a GT specifically designed for plowing snow in the winter months. you gotta have the duals if your gonna buld one for plowing itself. then i decided, well, when im plowing at night, so i dont get nailed, and for looks, you need to add a couple of lights.
...
with these lights being ones with an optional turn signal, is there a possible way to wire them to they are flashers sometimes and just solid others? i would need some kind of relay wouldnt i?

A couple of lights? Of Course! :fing32:



We drilled 4 holes in the dash and mounted 4 switches w/inline fuses. 3 were on/off and 1 was a 2-way (one for solid tail lights and one that goes through an in-line flasher for flashing tail lights). We also mounted a 12V power outlet to plug in a strobe safety light to mount on the top of cab. Used shrink wrap and kept it dry, its lasted for 6 years.




Lights Front and rear work well in the snow, especially at night.
 
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