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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a Case 222 with the original 'armstrong' manual deck lift. I am interested in adding hydraulic lift using parts from a later model which appear to be readily available on E-Bay. Has anyone else done this and if so how difficult was it and what parts are required? Is this a practical upgrade?

I know I would need to get the cylinder and rock shaft assembly. I think it would be most practical to use an aftermarket valve and hoses mounted off to the side instead of attempting to change the travel valve and installing a control lever in the dash. Is there any additional modifications needed to the frame or a need to add bolt on or weld on brackets?

Any ideas or suggestions are appreciated.

Thanks!

JN
 

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If you get all the parts off of a donor tractor it wouldn't be to hard to install all the correct factory parts on your tractor.
Case already did all the engineering and if you attempt to configure it a different way you may end up with a hydraulic nightmare like jayvee is running into.
 

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Personally I would stay with all factory parts. There is a bit of work involved doing it including pulling the engine. I have sold a lot of package good used kits over the yrs with everything needed to do the conversion.

Dan
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
So is everything a total bolt on with the correct parts? I know I will need to drill a hole in the dash for the control lever, but beyond that is there anything else that needs to be modified on the chassis? I looked at a 448 briefly and it appeared that there was a bracket welded on the frame that mounted the hydraulic lift assembly. It will be a couple of weeks before I will get a chance to make the close comparison and I thought I would get a jump start with information from you guys with far more experience and knowledge than I have.

Pulling the engine will be no problem - it is already out along with the hydraulic tank and pump. I am working on re-powering the tractor with a diesel engine. BTW - if anyone in Southwest Michigan or Northern Indiana can use a rebuildable Kohler 12 HP K301 short block PM me. The engine was stripped to the short block when I purchased the tractor but I can detect nothing wrong with it.

Thanks for the input guys!

JN
 

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Everything is a total bolt in. The bracket you saw welded on the 448 does not get welded on the 200 series tractors. They did that just to the 448's for a few yrs. You should not have to drill any holes. Your dash should have a hole already with a plastic plug in it for the lift circuit lever. You just need to pop that plug out. Everything is a factory bolt in package. With having the engine out already this is the time to make the conversion. If your interested in a complete package you can email me direct at [email protected]

Thank you,

Dan
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Your dash should have a hole already with a plastic plug in it for the lift circuit lever.
There is no plastic plug or hole on the right side of the dash. Would this indicate that anything else about the chassis might be missing or wrong for the upgrade?

JN
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
What yr is your tractor?
Ya, I'll have to get that information and get back to you. The hood said 222 on the tractor when I got it but it appears that someone has swapped stuff on and off it so I can't say with certainty that it is a 222 or not.

Thanks!

JN
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
There is no plug. Obviously I can drill a hole, but there is no plug.

The hole really is not the issue. I'm concerned with what accommodations the chassis does or does not have for mounting the hydraulic cylinder itself.

Hopefully this weekend I can get a close look at a similar 222 with the hydraulic lift on it so that I will have a better idea of what will be required.

Thanks!

JN
 

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There should be no other differences as for drilling holes or bolting. Everything else should bolt up just fine as is on a hydraulic lift tractor that left the factory. As for the hole you would just measure up the location in reference to the forward and reverse shift lever just on the other side of the steering. The used packages that I sell include the plastic bushing that gets inserted into the hole after you drill it before installing the lift lever.

Dan
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Good information. I will assess the whole project this weekend when (hopefully) I get a chance to test fit the new diesel engine. Right now it is looking like I will relocate the battery and hydraulic tank to make room for the larger engine. I do hope that I can re-install the front clutch and PTO with just adding a longer belt, though converting to an electric clutch may be easier.

Thanks again!

JN
 
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