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Discussion Starter #1
I saw a few videos on adding a fuel shutoff valve and I am tempted to install one on my new Snapper 33" rear engine mower.


I found one here on amazon and I think I would need one that would fit a 1/4" fuel line.

https://www.amazon.com/Briggs-Stratton-698183-Shut-Off-Selected/dp/B0038U3JKM/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=fuel+cutoff+b+valve&qid=1560014396&s=amazon-devices&sr=8-1

Pretty sure that my fuel line is 1/4" size and this valve will work.....

I know I have a fuel shut off valve for my Porter Cable generator.
 

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Very good idea> I have had one n my 1999 model since new. Just close it after mowing is done ,and let it run dry ,lots less carb trouble (**** ethanol.) It won't fix the solenoid problem unless you "clip" the plunger or use a bolt in place of it (if it's possible on yours). The only problem with "idiot proofing something, is that idiots always get smarter.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Very good idea> I have had one n my 1999 model since new. Just close it after mowing is done ,and let it run dry ,lots less carb trouble (**** ethanol.) It won't fix the solenoid problem unless you "clip" the plunger or use a bolt in place of it (if it's possible on yours). The only problem with "idiot proofing something, is that idiots always get smarter.
I am fortunate to live near a gas station that sells only non-ethanol gas. My mower is only a few weeks old and use only non-ethanol gas in all of my Briggs & Straton equipped mowers and generator.

I'm in the process installing analog hour meter as well. My generator already had a fuel shutoff valve and I run the engine until the gas line is empty and engine quits. Plan on doing same thing with my new Snapper as well.

Don't expect solenoid issues yet as it's a brand new machine but as time goes by, I'll keep it in mind. :tango_face_wink:

Thanks
 

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Butch...why are you even asking? Put the shutoff in! Every piece of OPE I sell doesn't go out the door without one......
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Butch...why are you even asking? Put the shutoff in! Every piece of OPE I sell doesn't go out the door without one......
BECAUSE....I wanted to make sure the connectors on the shut off valve will fit the ID of the fuel line on my machine.
Just tryin' to be cautious here. FWIW...I already ordered the thing from AMAZON.


Thanks.
 

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Hello. Adding a fuel shutoff valve into the fuel line has solved more than one carb. leakage problem I have found out. Cutting the fuel supply to the carb will of course stop the carb from leaking period. I have rebuilt, reset the float level on that carb. a number of times. Still the seepage continued. I installed the shutoff valve and the seepage stopped of course. I was still perplexed as to why the carb. still insisted on seeping after the rebuild but before the addition of the fuel shutoff valve. It became clear to me one extra warm afternoon when I pulled the Snapper RER out of the hot shed. In preparation to mow I went thru the usual oil check, tire check, fuel check. When I opened the air bleed valve on the fuel cap I heard a slight sss sound. It became clear to me then that by shutting the air bleed valve in the fuel cap all the fuel and fuel vapor inside the tank were being pressurized by the heat. I even observed the fuel999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999 tank flexing somewhat when the pressure was relieved. Adding the fuel valve just made the fuel tank a true closed system Allowing for the pressure to become higher than without the fuel shutoff valve. I now leave the air bleed open except when servicing the mower.


JUST AN EXPLANATION
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Hello. Adding a fuel shutoff valve into the fuel line has solved more than one carb. leakage problem I have found out. Cutting the fuel supply to the carb will of course stop the carb from leaking period. I have rebuilt, reset the float level on that carb. a number of times. Still the seepage continued. I installed the shutoff valve and the seepage stopped of course. I was still perplexed as to why the carb. still insisted on seeping after the rebuild but before the addition of the fuel shutoff valve. It became clear to me one extra warm afternoon when I pulled the Snapper RER out of the hot shed. In preparation to mow I went thru the usual oil check, tire check, fuel check. When I opened the air bleed valve on the fuel cap I heard a slight sss sound. It became clear to me then that by shutting the air bleed valve in the fuel cap all the fuel and fuel vapor inside the tank were being pressurized by the heat. I even observed the fuel999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999 tank flexing somewhat when the pressure was relieved. Adding the fuel valve just made the fuel tank a true closed system Allowing for the pressure to become higher than without the fuel shutoff valve. I now leave the air bleed open except when servicing the mower.


JUST AN EXPLANATION


So the fuel cap has embossed on it to turn the cap at least three times



So what is that all about then? IMHO if the cap was not closed securely (3x turn to right) that would perhaps leak fuel
when the mower was upright on its rear bumper.

There is what looks like a fuel pressure relief system attached to to top of the tank



I have my snapper in a shed as well as so far, no ssss sounds emanating from the gas tank or tank flexing.
I don't see any air bleed valve in the fuel cap, but wonder what is that on top of the fuel tank? (See photo)
 

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The dealy on top of the tank is a vapor capture device so you don't vent unburned raw fuel into the atmosphere. It should lead to a carbon canister that will abosorb some level of fumes(vapors) and hold them until the engine is started. After startup, the fuel vapor will be sucked out of the carbon, and fed to the engine.
I always store my fuel with the vent cap closed. It will build pressure, when the temperature changes and some fuel lighter fractions turn to vapor. It is called 'vapor pressure' for a reason, and will change (vp) depending on seasonal mix. More light fractions for winter start ease in colder regions, less in summer.
I don't want vapors to gather in the garage, so I always(99.9%) close the vent upon shutdown. Dunno what the cap shown above will do if you tip the Snapper on its butt.
FWIW, the gas tank will deform into a thinner version of itself if it is shutdown warm, and the temperature drops. So much it fell out of the bracket when I was replacing the boots last week. I must take it out into the sun to soften the tank and get some good vapor pressure to blow it up back to 'normal'...
tom
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I always store my fuel with the vent cap closed.
tom
I haven't found this vent cap you speak of. The tube running from the vent cap on top of my gas tank leads under my seat into a coil then it is
routed to my engine and connected to the engine......

Don't know if the vent cap is on my 2019 Snapper. It might be....but like Ray Charles....I just don't see it. :tango_face_plain:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
So the fuel cap has embossed on it to turn the cap at least three times



So what is that all about then? IMHO if the cap was not closed securely (3x turn to right) that would perhaps leak fuel
when the mower was upright on its rear bumper.

There is what looks like a fuel pressure relief system attached to to top of the tank



I have my snapper in a shed as well as so far, no ssss sounds emanating from the gas tank or tank flexing.
I don't see any air bleed valve in the fuel cap, but wonder what is that on top of the fuel tank? (See photo)

Contacted Snapper tech support and they responded:

The line at the top of the tank is the vent line. The older units had the vent made in to the caps. Cap on this mower is not vented. The three clicks are to make sure cap is tight enough not to leak. There is not a fuel bleed off system. The system does not require a fuel shut off valve as long as no contamination can not get between the float needle and seat that would cause the fuel to seep through the carburetor when the system is shut down.
 
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