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Add Oil Cooler to Raptor SD - Kawasaki Fr691v

1236 Views 24 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  charles g
I saw a post about adding the factory oil cooler used on the bigger Fh721 engine to the Fr691v that I have on my 54" Raptor SD. Wish I could remember who posted that as I owe them a big thanks! Here are some pictures and a few things I did differently on my install.

The Kawasaki parts needed;
39067-7008 Cooler - About $72
59071-0742 Joint - About $11
92055-7006 O-Ring - About $10

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This takes a 49065-0724 Oil filter. Crosses to Wix 51360, Wix 51394, Wix 51395. These are the same just different lengths.

These are terribly small filters so I wanted to install my much larger Wix filter. Wix 51516XP about $8 at Rock Auto.
Comparing the two filters;

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As the original poster noted the larger oil filter just slightly drags on the Oil Cooler casting. Here is the very tiny mod I did to the Al. base to provide clearance.

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Used my Dremel tool with a cut off wheel to lightly grind the surface. It did not take much.

You do need to modify the engine so the cooler fits. To help with access the RH fender bolts were removed and then the fender swiveled a bit so I could get in there. I used a large EZ-Out to remove the short threaded nipple in the block. It's not in there very tight. There is a Al. tab under the oil filter that gets in the way of the cooler mounting flat. Again it was a pretty minor mod to cut this off with a body saw.

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After removal. Be sure and put paper towels in the oil filter base and oil filler tube when cutting. Don't want any metal to get into the engine! I had a pretty good pile to clean up before I took the picture.

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Next mount the cooler using the longer hollow bolt. I used PTFE pipe paste on the threads. A bit of oil on the O-ring too! Rotate the cooler slightly so that it does not interfere with the oil filler tube. There is plenty of room.

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This is the much larger WIX 51516XP filter installed.

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The larger filter does stick out more and just touches the plastic fender. Don't think it will hinder removal of the oil filter but the fender is just 4 bolts so I may just loosen that to change the oil and filter. I could not believe how much room I had to clean and put rags under the filter with the fender pulled back. I have ALWAYS hated how that horizontal filter just makes a huge mess every time it's changed!

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Suppose to add about a pint of oil capacity. The original post claimed a 40F drop in oil temperature but I have not measured mine and will just assume it helped in some way. These engines full full blast 100% of the time which is much more severe service than just about anything else I own.
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Two things

First, I find that the lip you trimmed off really helps with cutting down on the mess when R&Ring the filter, I cut the side off a 1 quart rectangular oil container, slide it under there on my FR651V and it catches everything the comes out. With my Kohler CV22S, it doesn't have that lip, and the filter is closer to the base, so it's more difficult to wedge it underneatth the filter to catch everything and remove it without spilling the captured oil...

Second, I would probably see about using Kohler's oil cooler setup if I could, it also goes between the engine and oil filter, but runs a pair of hoses to a more conventional radiator style cooler, that mounts in a hole cut out of the engine shrouds, so it gets air forced through it for cooling... I would think it would be more effective at cooling compared with that style cooler (and it's location, where it doesn't get a lot of air flow).
Do you have any info on the other cooler?
When installing this one I did see a number of blanking plugs installed around the existing filter and they look like where an external cooler might be connected too.

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I never found that lip to help with anything but getting in the way. If fact it's just a terrible design overall. No thought about service and the oil just pours all over that side Hydro which is underneath the oil filter. In fact I thought I had a Hydro control rod leak because of the oil and dirt on one side. But it was just left over grime from the oil dripping down from the filter area.

It's amazing how my friends Super Z (Commercial Hustler) is so much better for service. They run a pipe and shut off valve to the back of the engine so you can drain the oil directly into a container without it coating everything under the mower.
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Here's a listing of a bunch of them with some pics:
It probably is doable, but takes some time with cross-matching oil filters between Kohler and Kaw engines, as they don't list dimensions or what the mounting threads are.

Those two plugs your green arrow point to are probably for manufacturing purposes, to machine something out, and not for attaching an external oil cooler.

I find that lip works for me, with that oil catcher I made, zero drops of oil made it to the frame from the oil filter, and it has a short drain hose (a little too short for the machine it's in now), that also did the job.

But, for other equipment, they did botch the job, either with no extension on the oil drain plug, so it has to drain over the frame of the machine, or with an extension that's too short so it still goes over the frame.
first off i'm the original poster, i had quit this forum infect quit every forum i had been a part of, , but slumb'ed watching my post, i returned only to thank clubairth for his more detailed post,


1st yes it helps, i found drop in oil temp to 40 degs less using 20w50 kawasaki oil when the air temps had reached 90 degs, as i mow 5 yards my motor runs for almost 7 hours at a time 2 days a week

2nd i had a kohler kit in stock from another machine,it did not fit. not enough room for the cast on hose connectors to clear,

the drip lip yes when stock it helps with clean up big time, yet it must be cut off as flush as possible for the cooler to mount, the new cooler also deflects the oil to where it can be contained

thanks clubarif , for the filter numbers, longer a little more capacity ,every drop helps when the air temps reach the upper 90's to low 100's
kawasaki zero turns on cub cadets have a ez drain oil drain hose that runs under the frame, only oil that drips is when the filter is changed, changing the oil cold after a over night cool down, one has a good drain back, i personally even with the cooler get close to nothing needing only a small amount of paper towel to soak up what does come out. clean up is minimal.

YES, many prefer to change oil hot and i agree, it's faster and suspended dirt flushes with it, just after 55 years of being a master auto mechanic. master audi/porsche/vw master /service manager.factory field tech and now retired, i do not like my hands not getting burnt
Here's a listing of a bunch of them with some pics:
It probably is doable, but takes some time with cross-matching oil filters between Kohler and Kaw engines, as they don't list dimensions or what the mounting threads are.

Those two plugs your green arrow point to are probably for manufacturing purposes, to machine something out, and not for attaching an external oil cooler.

I find that lip works for me, with that oil catcher I made, zero drops of oil made it to the frame from the oil filter, and it has a short drain hose (a little too short for the machine it's in now), that also did the job.

But, for other equipment, they did botch the job, either with no extension on the oil drain plug, so it has to drain over the frame of the machine, or with an extension that's too short so it still goes over the frame.
PS as to the 4 -1/8th NPT plugs in the oil galleries,YES they cover machining bores, when the gallery's are drilled
yet at the same time, anyone into small off road engine repair,knows theses engines are universal, they are made to fit many other brands, a cub has 1 crank shaft a JD has another a scag another, 1 has a higher output alternator than another, 1 has this air cleaner, another a different one, some even have the donaldson type, personally i have seen this same motor on a good 10 other brands of mowers, some have added a low oil pressure cutoff switch by using one of the plugged ports, one even had a oil pressure gauge.
thinking air filters i changed mine using this kit i did have to lose my cubs zt1-50 rear roll bar till i can get it modified to be higher over the blower housing and re powder coated , Kawasaki FR Air Filter Upgrade Kit
Thank you charles g for posting back. Yes your post got me thinking about the mods I did. I felt bad not giving you credit because you did all the leg work and posted part numbers. Again thank you!

My Raptor SD 54" started using some oil recently when before it had been consuming none at all? I see you run 20W-50. I do see that is on the Kawasaki oil chart. I am currently running 10W-30 Mobil 1 and have since I purchased the mower new. Now with 310 hrs on it is just started using oil all of a sudden. Saw your comment about the large temperature drop and decided to add the cooler.

But now with what you said maybe I need to go to 20W-50 oil too?? I like Mobil 1 but do see Kawasaki sells this under their own label.

I have 4 acres and put about 60-80 hours a year on the mower. Not real hard usage I don't think?
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After getting my John Deere 757 engine repaired because of a bunch of oil leaks that I attributed to the overheating issue the horizontal Kawasaki has when the cooling fins get plugged with grass clippings, I got low oil pressure indicator after running over about 1/2 hr and throttled back to idle. I finally switched to Mobil 1 20W50 synthetic motorcycle racing oil after installing a digital pressure gauge and didn’t get low oil pressure light any more. Hot temperatures definitely made it worse. The temp switch was 15 psi and at idle there must have been peaks over 15 psi since the gauge read 15 psi, but the light fluttering looked on. Hot days now, I read mid to upper 20’s. On a cool day, it reads about 35. Never measured engine temperature, but you can really see the pressure drop while running. I used a digital gauge with 1 psi resolution. Never checked the accuracy at 15 psi. Just know the oil change solved the problem.
Yow. $300 for that setup... I've changed to that Donaldson filter setup, but just bought the filter housing for $100 and made my own mounts.
PS as to the 4 -1/8th NPT plugs in the oil galleries,YES they cover machining bores, when the gallery's are drilled
yet at the same time, anyone into small off road engine repair,knows theses engines are universal, they are made to fit many other brands, a cub has 1 crank shaft a JD has another a scag another, 1 has a higher output alternator than another, 1 has this air cleaner, another a different one, some even have the donaldson type, personally i have seen this same motor on a good 10 other brands of mowers, some have added a low oil pressure cutoff switch by using one of the plugged ports, one even had a oil pressure gauge.
thinking air filters i changed mine using this kit i did have to lose my cubs zt1-50 rear roll bar till i can get it modified to be higher over the blower housing and re powder coated , Kawasaki FR Air Filter Upgrade Kit
THANK YOU club, i did look in the web and found some one else had added a cooler to another model the FH first, i simply took a chance win or loose to see if it would work on a FR the site was Add Oil Cooler 19hp Kawasaki, easy upgrade credit goes to him
that stock filter mount has a internal hex to remove it, the size is 12MM

i did notice some oil use age from new using 10w30 oil ,after breaking it in on whatever the factory fill was. so i first tried 10w40 than 20w50, with both i saw my usage drop to small amount, changing every 20 hours i see zero usage, so that's what my machine gets,

ONE thing i have to say about OPE engines and oil .every engine maker has a chart of what to use for the air temps of the area, personally i stay to it, why do i use the blend klube? only one it has zinc in it , which aids the camshafts, also of
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note is many ope engine oil charts also list straight 40w for high air temps. i'm sure knowing now what my motor likes,i'll use another brand made for older auto's with flat tappet cams.

dave
yes it was pricy $219.99 USD, probably close to 300 in your canadian dollars, your correct i could have made my own, again i'm age 75 and the bracket to mount it made it a 15 min job as i had to remove the roll bar running over the engine blower inlet, of another note i emailed the company before ordering it as i taught it would cause interference problems, within a day i had a return email with photos' showing the height problem ,it's high! seeing i could have the local welding shop mod mine,i placed the order, shipped same day ups dropped it off 4 days latter took off my roll bar and mounted it, i did also add the donaldson air filter reminder the lowest suction one, just incase
another just why? we get dry spells, and wind up cutting crab grass within very dust dry grass, i got tired of cleaning the stock filter .

again i did try 2 other coolers. the kohler CV is a molded plastic, the hose bibs didn't work on the KW, i also borrowed one off my home standby 17 kw generac that adapter also would not work.
good luck guys' we do have a awesome motor that should treat us all very well for a long time
Yes that is the chart I was talking about too. You and others have recommended 20W-50 and that chart is pushing me to change from 10W-30 to 20W-50.

Another BIG thank you as I ordered the upgraded air filter setup too. Yes it's about $245 with shipping and tax. I actually had looked into this before because my friends Super Z has this setup from the factory. Just thought it would be a hack job and that kit at least does mount the filter properly.

I did adjust the valves since I was at 300 hours and it was time. Two were with in specs and the other two were pretty loose so I adjusted them back into spec. That was the last thing I could do that "might" have an impact on my oil usage. So far no change that I can tell.

The link to the other thread did fill in some history on this. Also the dumb internet experts who claimed that would do no good. What morons!
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funny as i also found loose valves first at 50 hours again at 200.
the filter seeing this at the local green and yellow dealer i asked if they had it in stock, simple it can't hurt as bare min,you can see how the filter is flowing like on a big rig John Deere Air Filter Restriction Indicator - AUC16126
here my link in this site to what you had seen about my cooler install.THANK you for your more detailed photos, mine were cell phone not my prized nikon DSLR
I like that restriction indicator but not sure where it installs on the air filter?
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there is a pipe thread port it screws into
It would go on the clean air side of the filter housing (ie, past the air filters). It just is a simple mechanism to measure the vacuum, the higher the vacuum is, the dirtier the filter...
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Thanks again and I found the port. What threw me off was the sensor comes with female threads and so does the fitting on the air cleaner. So this install requires a double male 1/8" NPT nipple. If you don't have that they do sell a kit with the nipple included. Note also that depending on where your sensor port is you might need a 90 degree nipple instead of a straight one.

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Unscrew the white plug in the above picture and that's the sensor port.

I also wanted to post that there are a number of these restriction sensors. I am going to use:
ACDelco AFM4. Found the best price of under $20 on EBay but they are common and are all over the place.

Here are a couple of more. There really are two versions of this sensor; The colored version like the ACDelco above that have a scale to tell you the amount of restriction. There are also ones that don't show anything until the filter is plugged then they turn red.

Colored Sensor;
ACDelco AFM4
Donaldson 135501-00820
JD AUC16126
GM 15284550 - Yes this was installed on some GM Diesel's from the factory.

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Black Sensor that only turns red;
JD AT25983
Donaldson X00-2252
Donaldson X00-2253
Donaldson X00-2251
Donaldson X00-2350
Donaldson X00-2254

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There are a lot of others that only differ in the bottom connection. Some are threaded like what we need but a lot also just have a rubber grommet and push in a hole.
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the one the JD sold me had the nipple as they knew right away which to use, simple upgrades that hopefully help these good motors run a lot longer,
sitting around today reading about mods we have done to help encrease the life of our motors i found this thread inside this site Ranking common engines 2020/2021
the OP makes note of oil leaks taught to be caused by the small air filters used on many small off road engines, that taught i personally agree with .
It may only be a coincidence ,yet something that makes common sense, If a motor has to make more vacuum to fill a combustion chamber with a small clogged air filter it can also possibly suck more oil from the crankcase .
personally i watched my oil usage with the oil cooler and using 20w50 oil in hot weather plus the larger air filter. almost disappear
I am following what you did for the same reasons. No problems for about 300 hours and then a sudden jump in oil consumption. Trying to find the reason.

Yes I found some build up in the carb throat from what appears to be the PCV tube. Also read the PCV set up can cause excessive oil consumption but then read about the poor air filtration on the lower end models of all engines is also thought to be a cause?
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