AC-816 (MTF Newbie!)

2387 Views 13 Replies 5 Participants Last post by stevedascoli, Jul 22, 2009

stevedascoli

Discussion Starter · Jul 19, 2009

Hey guys, brand new to MTF!!! This site rocks! My father and I are trying to get my grandfather's 1984 Allis Chalmers model 816 tractor up and running. We are running into a few issues maybe anyone can help?

1) In order to start the tractor we need to "jump" the solenoid. We tried to replace the solenoid but still didn't help. I know that there are three safety's on the tractor (Neutral, PTO, and Clutch). We tried to bypass that Neutral safety.... How exactly would we do this? I think when we were trying to bypass this safety we might have also shorted something out because one of the leads accidentally his something it wasn't supposed to hit and sparks were flying.

2) The other issue the tractor is having is that it runs OK in 1st gear, but anytime you throw it into a faster gear it will choke out and stall. We are going to take the carburetor out and clean it out. Would this help? Might it be another problem?

I can't imagine much is wrong with the tractor, it was only used to cut grass, and stayed in a shed 100% of its 24 year old life.

Any help or hints would be great!!!!

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stevedascoli

Discussion Starter · #4 · Jul 19, 2009

Wow thanks for the info! I found my project for tomorrow! I tried looking up the manuals on the website you suggested but the Model #6216 is getting any results. Maybe the Simplicity website doesn't supply manuals for tractors from the early 80's?

Thanks I will keep ya'll posted on how we do!

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stevedascoli

Discussion Starter · #7 · Jul 20, 2009

A wiring schematic would probably be a huge help. Does anyone know where I can get one?

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stevedascoli

Discussion Starter · #8 · Jul 20, 2009

My dad and I are going to begin with the starting issue today... I have one of those electrical testers that light up when juice is running through. Will that work for testing the leads on the tractor or do I need to get a multimeter?

Also does anyone have any suggestions for a checklist or order of things that should be tested? Also how exactly would I check to see if I get a current running through each wire? There are a very limited number of leads going into and coming out of the solenoid, so if those pass the test, then what wires should we continue testing?

Thanks for the help guys, don't think I would be able to do this project without MTF!

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stevedascoli

Discussion Starter · #9 · Jul 21, 2009

Hey does anyone know if it is worth buying a Repair Manual. I found two online. One from Allis Chalmers for the model tractor I have, and one for Simplicity 6200's... Any guess at which might be better?

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stevedascoli

Discussion Starter · #11 · Jul 22, 2009

Steevo,

Thanks for the info! This sounds great! I am going to get on it ASAP! Hopefully that will help!

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stevedascoli

Discussion Starter · #13 · Jul 22, 2009

I don't want to get too far ahead of myself, but does anyone also have any pointers on getting the Variable speed to work on this tractor?

Of course getting it running properly is primary, but the Variable speed was rarely ever used and hasn't worked for quite some time.

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stevedascoli

Discussion Starter · #14 · Jul 22, 2009

****UPDATE****

Tried to figure out why the tractor starts if you jump the solenoid today.

Bought a multimeter to test the wires. The ones leading to the first safety under the seat read 12V. The all the wires leading out of the solenoid also said 12V.
(The only exception were these two red wires attached to this tiny rectangular box that is attached to the side of the solenoid)

I found the second safety switch under the left foot rail. This is the PTO safety. The wires coming to the safety only had a reading of about 6V. Is this normal? The wires that go to the Neutral safety under the seat were 12V.

I was about to change the ignition switch but thought I would post here first before I go out and by a new switch. When you turn the key there is power. And when you jump the solenoid with the switch on the tractor will start.... This is leading me to believe that the switch is OK.

Also bought a Fuel Pump kit, and a Carb Kit. Going to rebuild both of those.

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