AC-816 (MTF Newbie!)

2382 Views 13 Replies 5 Participants Last post by stevedascoli, Jul 22, 2009

stevedascoli

Discussion Starter · Jul 19, 2009

Hey guys, brand new to MTF!!! This site rocks! My father and I are trying to get my grandfather's 1984 Allis Chalmers model 816 tractor up and running. We are running into a few issues maybe anyone can help?

1) In order to start the tractor we need to "jump" the solenoid. We tried to replace the solenoid but still didn't help. I know that there are three safety's on the tractor (Neutral, PTO, and Clutch). We tried to bypass that Neutral safety.... How exactly would we do this? I think when we were trying to bypass this safety we might have also shorted something out because one of the leads accidentally his something it wasn't supposed to hit and sparks were flying.

2) The other issue the tractor is having is that it runs OK in 1st gear, but anytime you throw it into a faster gear it will choke out and stall. We are going to take the carburetor out and clean it out. Would this help? Might it be another problem?

I can't imagine much is wrong with the tractor, it was only used to cut grass, and stayed in a shed 100% of its 24 year old life.

Any help or hints would be great!!!!

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Steevo

· #10 · Jul 21, 2009 (Edited)

I have a Simplicity 6116, which is basically identical to your AC, and had similar carburation issues. I found that I also needed to rebuild the fuel pump, which is a $5 kit and an hours time at most. The old diaphragm was leaky and could not keep enough fuel pressure to fill the bowl at anything beyond 1st gear slow. The kits for carb and fuel pump are readily available on eBay, and are the same for most of the B/S twins of that era.

Also, if you download the parts manual from the Simplicity site, and look at the diagram of teh wiring loom, you will see where the two saftey switches are (#4) and that will steer you to their location on the tractor, one under the seat and one under the left footboard. The wires run through both of these from the ignition switch on their way to the solenoid. If you have no power coming into this path when in start position, nothing will get to the solenoid. If it is hot at one side of the saftey switch but not the other, the switch is bad or stuck. Just by-pass it with a piece of wire (for testing only), and determine which is in need of replacement.

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