[stevedascoli]

Hey guys, brand new to MTF!!! This site rocks! My father and I are trying to get my grandfather's 1984 Allis Chalmers model 816 tractor up and running. We are running into a few issues maybe anyone can help?

1) In order to start the tractor we need to "jump" the solenoid. We tried to replace the solenoid but still didn't help. I know that there are three safety's on the tractor (Neutral, PTO, and Clutch). We tried to bypass that Neutral safety.... How exactly would we do this? I think when we were trying to bypass this safety we might have also shorted something out because one of the leads accidentally his something it wasn't supposed to hit and sparks were flying.

2) The other issue the tractor is having is that it runs OK in 1st gear, but anytime you throw it into a faster gear it will choke out and stall. We are going to take the carburetor out and clean it out. Would this help? Might it be another problem?

I can't imagine much is wrong with the tractor, it was only used to cut grass, and stayed in a shed 100% of its 24 year old life.

Any help or hints would be great!!!!

 

[Bolens 1000]

:MTF_wel2: :Welcome1: :bananapow

 

[simplelife]

:MTF_wel2:

Your tractor is a twin to the Simplicity 6216. If you don't already have them, you can download the manuals at http://www.simplicitymfg.com/manuals/index.cfm?rd=1http://www.simplicitymfg.com/manuals/index.cfm?rd=1

1) In order to start the tractor we need to "jump" the solenoid. We tried to replace the solenoid but still didn't help. I know that there are three safety's on the tractor (Neutral, PTO, and Clutch). We tried to bypass that Neutral safety.... How exactly would we do this? I think when we were trying to bypass this safety we might have also shorted something out because one of the leads accidentally his something it wasn't supposed to hit and sparks were flying.

You can bypass the safety switches by taking a piece of electrical wire about the same gauge as the wiring harness about 6" long, strip the ends, form it into a U shape and plug one stripped end in each connection of the terminal you remove from the safety switch.

2) The other issue the tractor is having is that it runs OK in 1st gear, but anytime you throw it into a faster gear it will choke out and stall. We are going to take the carburetor out and clean it out. Would this help? Might it be another problem?

I can't imagine much is wrong with the tractor, it was only used to cut grass, and stayed in a shed 100% of its 24 year old life.

Any help or hints would be great!!!!

Cleaning the carb can't hurt. How long has it been sitting since it was last used and are you using old gas or did you put fresh gas into it? If it has an inline fuel filter, replace it with a new one. They are cheap. Run a product like SeaFoam through the 1st tank of gas to help clean everything out. Marvel Mystery Oil is also a great product to get everything working in the fuel system again. Make sure the governor is working properly. A new spark plug would also help if it has been sitting for anytime.

Does it accelerate ok in neutral and 1st gear? As far as the starting of it, check for any inline fuses or circuit breakers. Check and clean all wiring connections. If you have access to a multimeter, you can quickly run down the problem of why you are not getting current to the solenoid switch. Just a few thoughts on places to look for your gremlins. Keep us posted.

 

[stevedascoli]

Wow thanks for the info! I found my project for tomorrow! I tried looking up the manuals on the website you suggested but the Model #6216 is getting any results. Maybe the Simplicity website doesn't supply manuals for tractors from the early 80's?

Thanks I will keep ya'll posted on how we do!

 

[SonnyT]

:Welcome1: Glad you are excited to be here as we are to have you! You might want to look at the wiring schematic, sometimes one of the safety switchs make the connection and lets the ground go to the system. Just my $.02 worth. :goodl:

 

[simplelife]

Wow thanks for the info! I found my project for tomorrow! I tried looking up the manuals on the website you suggested but the Model #6216 is getting any results. Maybe the Simplicity website doesn't supply manuals for tractors from the early 80's?

Thanks I will keep ya'll posted on how we do!

They use the mfg. id number, which in your case would be 1690688. Sorry, I thought it would transfer on the original link. Just plug in that number and the available manuals should come up.

 

[stevedascoli]

A wiring schematic would probably be a huge help. Does anyone know where I can get one?

 

[stevedascoli]

My dad and I are going to begin with the starting issue today... I have one of those electrical testers that light up when juice is running through. Will that work for testing the leads on the tractor or do I need to get a multimeter?

Also does anyone have any suggestions for a checklist or order of things that should be tested? Also how exactly would I check to see if I get a current running through each wire? There are a very limited number of leads going into and coming out of the solenoid, so if those pass the test, then what wires should we continue testing?

Thanks for the help guys, don't think I would be able to do this project without MTF!

 

[stevedascoli]

Hey does anyone know if it is worth buying a Repair Manual. I found two online. One from Allis Chalmers for the model tractor I have, and one for Simplicity 6200's... Any guess at which might be better?

 

[Steevo]

I have a Simplicity 6116, which is basically identical to your AC, and had similar carburation issues. I found that I also needed to rebuild the fuel pump, which is a $5 kit and an hours time at most. The old diaphragm was leaky and could not keep enough fuel pressure to fill the bowl at anything beyond 1st gear slow. The kits for carb and fuel pump are readily available on eBay, and are the same for most of the B/S twins of that era.

Also, if you download the parts manual from the Simplicity site, and look at the diagram of teh wiring loom, you will see where the two saftey switches are (#4) and that will steer you to their location on the tractor, one under the seat and one under the left footboard. The wires run through both of these from the ignition switch on their way to the solenoid. If you have no power coming into this path when in start position, nothing will get to the solenoid. If it is hot at one side of the saftey switch but not the other, the switch is bad or stuck. Just by-pass it with a piece of wire (for testing only), and determine which is in need of replacement.

 

[stevedascoli]

Steevo,

Thanks for the info! This sounds great! I am going to get on it ASAP! Hopefully that will help!

 

[Steevo]

My pleasure. And welcome to MTF!

 

[stevedascoli]

I don't want to get too far ahead of myself, but does anyone also have any pointers on getting the Variable speed to work on this tractor?

Of course getting it running properly is primary, but the Variable speed was rarely ever used and hasn't worked for quite some time.

 

[stevedascoli]

****UPDATE****

Tried to figure out why the tractor starts if you jump the solenoid today.

Bought a multimeter to test the wires. The ones leading to the first safety under the seat read 12V. The all the wires leading out of the solenoid also said 12V.
(The only exception were these two red wires attached to this tiny rectangular box that is attached to the side of the solenoid)

I found the second safety switch under the left foot rail. This is the PTO safety. The wires coming to the safety only had a reading of about 6V. Is this normal? The wires that go to the Neutral safety under the seat were 12V.

I was about to change the ignition switch but thought I would post here first before I go out and by a new switch. When you turn the key there is power. And when you jump the solenoid with the switch on the tractor will start.... This is leading me to believe that the switch is OK.

Also bought a Fuel Pump kit, and a Carb Kit. Going to rebuild both of those.