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About an 1811

5949 Views 17 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  aagitch
Ok...I don't know a lot about cub cadets.....farmall cubs a little but cadets not so much...
My question is did they ever make a loader for an 1811...and do you ever see them for sale.....
Thanks, Jerry
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The loader that would fit on the 1811 is made by Kwik-way. Cub Never made there own loader they always used Kwik-way or Danco http://www.kwmanufacturing.com/ The loader is Run off a PTO driven Hydraulic Pump which you ran off the front PTO There about $2,500 New and still avaliable. If you ever see a kiwk-way Loader for sale on ebay all you would need to buy for it say it was mounted on a Deere or a Wheelhorse is a diffrent sub frame and PTO pump set up from kwik-way. Hope this answers your question:thThumbsU
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Yes it does...and thank you ...
Jerry
Your Welcome:thThumbsU
This is a Kwik way loader sold by Sears made for what ever tractor. this came on a model 100 when I bought it. I made a new subframe and mounted it on a 149. So any loader will fit almost any tractor as long as the width is ok. As for HP needed I think a 1811 is just fine. The power is more then enough. I think the lowest is a 12 HP tractor. I only use half throttle on the 149 because your find out that traction will be a problem and not the engine.
Be careful with the aluminum rear end not too strong!!!!!!!!!!!!

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Why does ever one think the aluminum rear ends in the 82 series are weak ?

They have the fine splined carrier and axles in them everyone wants for there pulling tractors. The only place they were ever so called weak is in the hitch area. Even then if you manage to pull out the five bolts that hold the hitch on, then you are pulling something you shouldn't be.

Further more has anyone actually seen a broken one ? And if so how and why did it break ?

:banghead3
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Why does ever one think the aluminum rear ends in the 82 series are weak ?

They have the fine splined carrier and axles in them everyone wants for there pulling tractors. The only place they were ever so called weak is in the hitch area. Even then if you manage to pull out the five bolts that hold the hitch on, then you are pulling something you shouldn't be.

Further more has anyone actually seen a broken one ? And if so how and why did it break ?
:banghead3
BOOM! Hit the nail in the head!
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Joe I agree with you there. I've never understood the hype. Yeah it'll give you more weight having the cast rear but isn't that what weights and tire ballast is for? I read these posts about people purposely switching out the aluminum rear for the cast rear in the 82 series for plowing/heavy duty work purposes. Doesn't make sense. An aluminum rear aint gonna fail unless somebody was abusing it. I was recently at a plow day and following a couple supers with cast rears and they were constantly getting stuck. I was behind them just chugging along constantly having to stop for them. In their situation the cast rears didn't help any. My super with aluminum rear did really good.
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AAGITCH,
I just don't understand it either. But on a side note I have put together a cast iron rear with the fine spline setup for both my super and my 1211. Neither of them are installed yet. I do want to stress that I only built them because I had the parts sitting here and did not cost me anything but the gaskets and bearings. Plus a aluminum rear for a super is really expensive, if you can find one that a puller hasn't already got the axles and carrier out of. And I also can run a normal ported hydro on it instead of finding a super pump with the splined input and PTO shaft. Again very expensive.

The supers you were following,that were getting stuck, were they running any extra wheel weights or anything ? My super is still in pieces and will be for a while now. So I have not had the chance to pull a plow with it. But I am thinking that it would need at least 150-200 lbs on the wheels and maybe even 50-75 lbs on the front. Does this sound about right ?
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The axles are not the weak point the aluminun housing is weaker then a CI rear.
Breoken aluminun rear housing? Yes I've seen them brake axle tubes and from mounting bolts where it mount on the frame.
The problem with the frame bolts is that they can come loose and the wallow out the holes. This is not from a weak spot. If you take them out and put some lock tight on them the problem is cured.

I would like to know what the person was doing to break an axle tube. Because I can guarantee that the tractor would spin the wheels or break something on the drive shaft before it could put enough power to the rear to torque the housing enough to break.

SO, WHAT WAS HE DOING ? My guess is ,it was dropped off a trailer or truck. Or they ran into something with it.
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joeharley said:
SO, WHAT WAS HE DOING ? My guess is ,it was dropped off a trailer or truck. Or they ran into something with it.
My crappy aluminum case rear-end has been dropped off the end of a trailer at least 4 times due to my crappy ramp system. No cracks or breakage at all.
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Thats what I am saying. The only broken one I have ever seen was on a 1863-or 4 that had taken a roll down over a 150-175 foot wooded ravine. The one tube did break. The owner said it landed on that rear wheel at the bottom, thats when it broke. The tire was cut from pushing the right side of the fender clear into the dash, and then pushing the dash tower into the engine and breaking the cases knocking it free. As you can imagine it was quit an impact.
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Thats what I am saying. The only broken one I have ever seen was on a 1863-or 4 that had taken a roll down over a 150-175 foot wooded ravine. The one tube did break. The owner said it landed on that rear wheel at the bottom, thats when it broke. The tire was cut from pushing the right side of the fender clear into the dash, and then pushing the dash tower into the engine and breaking the cases knocking it free. As you can imagine it was quit an impact.
Wow, It would be interesting to see a picture of that tractor after that impact.

And I bet you, a cast iron axle would have broke, or at least cracked during that crash.
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I had 72 lbs of wheel weights and about 180lbs of ballast and then my 220lbs. The others had plenty for wheel weights but maybe they didn't didn't have ballast. I had no problems once I got the plowing depth set correctly. The ground was in poor shape the top was wet and several inches in was really dry so that made it interesting. I routinely check my bolts so hopefully I'll catch one if it ever backs off. I definitely don't ever foresee doing anything remotely close enough to risk cracking or breaking a housing. I agree you won't break either unless it's been abused and neglected.
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PURPLDODGE,
I should have taken a couple pics but I never did. I gave the guy $75 for it. I was after the front axle and power steering. I still have some parts off the engine and some misc pieces but it was pretty much a loss. Most of it went to the scrap yard.

AAGITCH,
I just scored a set of IH weights for $50 last week. And I have a set Bolens (I think) 65 lb weights. I am hoping with those and the rears filled I will have plenty. Especially with my 250 :trink40: in the seat. Do you know if anyone has had any luck pulling dual plows (2 bottoms) with a super ? I suppose it would all depend on the ground. But it sure would look cool!
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It was on a loader with dual wheels and alot of weight. The 1811 I have had a broken ear on the front of the aluminum trans. It was probaly from loose bolts up front. This was done before I got it. Also this was the reason I got the tractor for free with a new engine.:fing32:
My 149 had about 800 of ballast weight on the back with duals. Now I just have a set of 25x12x12 atv tires fluid filled tirs for the winter.
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There was a guy with 2+2 looking garden tractor made out of 82 series tractors. It was awesome and he was pulling a 2 bottom. It looked just like a miniature 2+2 without the cab. The only difference is it articulated behind the steering wheel etc... It plowed really well. It had a liquid cooled kohler command in it.
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