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see if you can see the diffrence between the two repsonses and wonder to your self which is better for the CI owner seeking help. Can you imagine why a 'schmuck" would dislike seeing someone repetitively cutting and pasting the same link over and over and never really being helpful. (unless there is a part to be sold)
I could'nt care less who visits what site but know that many people (myself included big time) have recieved alot of great advice on this site and unless it is promoted on this site then it is wasted and that is not fair to the person who posts on here seeking assistance or knowledge. A lazy mind does find easier solutions.
Typical Question:
The way questions are often answered on MTF (notice the reference to the yahoo site very helpful)
I could'nt care less who visits what site but know that many people (myself included big time) have recieved alot of great advice on this site and unless it is promoted on this site then it is wasted and that is not fair to the person who posts on here seeking assistance or knowledge. A lazy mind does find easier solutions.
Typical Question:
One way of filling space :Quote:
Originally Posted by rabbit rescue
I was hoping for some insight on this repair from some of the members here that know these inside and out
I may get some static, again, for doing this, but it is the best advise I can give ,IMHO! go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/casegardentractors/
You will have to register to access the files, but in MHO, every Case/Ingersoll owner should be a member of both groups. Files on about any question you could ask, are archived there, with over 4000 members ready to give a C/I newbee a hand. At least the "second" greatest site on the internet!
The way questions are often answered on MTF (notice the reference to the yahoo site very helpful)
:congrats:[/QUOTE]Actually, I was hoping the same thing.
Your tractor should have the EZ-Clutch on it. The mechanical clutches used on these tractors are a very solid unit and they last quite a long time. However, just like the clutch in your car or truck, they do need adjustment and they do wear out.....eventually.
To get at the clutch you need to unplug the headlamps and remove the hood. Then remove the four frame bolts that hold the oil cooler mount in place plus the few small bolts that hold the muffler shield. At that point, you should be able to swing the cooler to one side.
Remove the plastic fan and then the large nut that holds the clutch together. Be carefull with this nut because it is cast, not solid steel and if you are rough with it, you can break it. Carefully dismantle the clutch and place all items in a row so you know the order in which it all came apart. When everything has been removed from the shaft, check out the shaft itself. If the shaft is badly grooved/worn and has noticable ridges on it, then you may have to replace it. Really bad shafts can cause you all kinds of grief when you are trying to get a proper adjustment.
Some ridges can be removed by starting the engine, running it at an idle and then lightly touching the shaft with a fine cut flat file, the wider the better. Keep in mind that there are three bearing races that ride on this shaft and if you want those races to do their job, then the shaft cannot be grossly undersized.
You need to check all three of those bearings to make sure that there is no roughness in them. They must rotate easily or the shaft will spin inside them and that's one of the things that ruins these shafts. You also need to check the thickness of the clutch disc and if it's too thin, then it needs to be replaced.
Rol has given you the link to join the Yahoo CCI group. Access the FILES section and find the folder that has to do with the clutches and read everything. You must inspect each and every part and you must put the correct items in the correct quantities in the correct spot as you re-assemble the clutch. Adjusting it takes some practice so don't expect to get it right the first, second or even third try.
You can stop your engine from rotating by removing the spark plug and then dropping a foot of 3/8" rope inside the cylinder. Just put a knot on one end of the rope so you don't drop the whole length in. The piston will squish the rope against the underside of the head, preventing the engine from rotating further. When the clutch lever is disengaged, the clutch pulley should rotate easily. When you try engaging the clutch, the pressure needed should be small initially and then increase rapidly until the very last part of the stroke when you feel the clutch lever "go over the top" and "snap into position".
Read the instructions carefully again and again until you fully understand the procedure.