A new driveway scraper/drag under construction

Alan_Heist said:

How will the hydraulics attach?

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A bell crank and direct link to cylinder rocker shaft. Seen hanging loose here. It will allow the drag to float and a rigid connection (not done yet) will allow down pressure.

Here you can see the link between the bell crank and the rocker shaft arm. In the raised position. Nothing is pinned, welded or bolted yet, just tacked, clamped, but I did run it and it does go up and down. Raises the drag about 5"- 6" at the low point. Can't wait to see if this thing works on my driveway.

Mounting plates welded in place. Tongue in place ready for drilling. Tongue will be bolted to the mounting plates.

Tongue bolted to drag and end plates tacked on for effect. In up position and down position.

The beam does not appear to be able to osculate in relation to the rear axle.

If it does not osculate on the hitch, you may find that using the drag in reverse will fill holes better than going forward.

Having the fixed axle trailing the drag will have the fixed axle running on filled holes rather than running down into them.

I mention this so that you may consider extending the wings to the rear also.

Rear extension of the wings will also give more leveling effect.

IMHO

CADplans said:

The beam does not appear to be able to osculate in relation to the rear axle.

If it does not osculate on the hitch, you may find that using the drag in reverse will fill holes better than going forward.

Having the fixed axle trailing the drag will have the fixed axle running on filled holes rather than running down into them.

I mention this so that you may consider extending the wings to the rear also.

Rear extension of the wings will also give more leveling effect.

IMHO

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I had to look up "osculate" to get your meaning. I learned a new word. You're right. It will not pivot side to side. Only floating length wise. I think I understand. Fortunately, the "holes are small and should fill easily. I don't think this will be a problem in my case, but I will keep your suggestion in mind. I'm going to just tack the end wings so that I can make mods later if need be. I'm close to being able to test what I have, so far.

I speak from experience that you need rear wings.

I did not put them on when I built this!!

:crybaby:

CADplans said:

I speak from experience that you need rear wings.

View attachment 188387

I did not put them on when I built this!!

:crybaby:

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Do they have purpose going forward? Or just backing? I can always add them. Nice thing about having a shop and equipment. I'm certainly not versed in implements, so this is an ongoing experiment.

Jack D D said:

Do they have purpose going forward? Or just backing? I can always add them. Nice thing about having a shop and equipment. I'm certainly not versed in implements, so this is an ongoing experiment.

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Yes they work going forward as well!! They stabilize the grading edge to keep the blade "more level". Three foot long would be better, but, would get in the way!!

Not much done today. Pins and shafts drilled for clips (hairpins). Thinking about how it would be used, I decided it would be a nuisance to remove it (the whole apparatus) when I wanted to use the dozer blade. Then it occurred to me that the added weight hanging out behind would be advantageous. So I added a tube and pin affair to hold it in the raised position. The tube slides into the receiver and pins to the tongue.

The whole thing weighs 65# so far and a bit more when the rippers are added. I haven't weighed the hitch, but it also adds a bit of weight. It's getting close to 100# of added weight, all of it hanging behind the axle. Getting close to the same as wheel weights. The leverage would make it seem to be more.

Locked in the raised postion, all I need to do is change the linkages to the hydraulics rocker shaft, to switch to the dozer blade. I will have to fix the dozer blade hardware to lock in the raised position, too.

Teeth are in place and ready for testing. That will have to wait for a break in the weather.

I'll see if it does the job before I paint.

This site sudddenly won't upload my pictures. Says "This is not a valid image file." Yet it is the same as all the files I've sent before. Less than 50k and .jpg. Must be mad at me.

If you're interested in what they look like they are posted on my website at http://www.metalsmithpro.com/Gilson.htm

It let me upload the pictures this morning. I weighed it, again, after the completion and it weighs exactly 80#.

burnout2499 said:

looks nice. a place i used to work used an I-beam drag and rock an gravel would pile up on top of it which wasn't bad for it it made for more weight and better cut in but with down force u may not need the extra and cutting the front edge off may help. to much down force and you'll lose traction.

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If more weight is needed, I can fill the top of the beam with concrete. If it is OK without more weight, I'm thinking about welding a cap over the top to keep it from filling.

wicked cool!

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Thanks. But will it work? I'm thinking I may paint it first, then test. That way I won't have to clean mud off of it first.