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Discussion Starter #1
Well, I bought an old Farmall H this past Thursday. It's going to be somewhat of a project, but not too bad at all. It had been sitting for a year or so, occasionally started and driven. Anyways, it has no ID tag. No serial number. Although it has a small WalMart 12-volt battery, not sure if it's a 6 or 12 volt system, the battery looks like it was what was available in a pinch to get it going. No problem, I'll replace with what's right, I just don't know without looking the generator over first. The IHC carb and the fuel tank will both need to be cleaned. Rear tires are a bit mismatched and will need to be replaced someday but they'll be fine for awhile. Front tires - eh, OK for now. Seat pan is rusted through in places and the bushing and shock need replacing, lights are missing (wiring is still there on the lightbar), and naturally the steering wheel has also seen better days. And I'll want to be putting fenders on at some point. And the right brake band needs replacing. Overall, not at all bad, easy stuff just a lot of it. It was mostly stored in a shed, especially while it was sitting. Engine runs great, and the transmission, clutch, pto, and belly pump all appear to be good. Steering is nice. Drawbar is good. No leaks. Water pump MAY need replacing, but it's original after all. :) The tractor looks to have been fairly well maintained. And, the price was right! REALLY right... ;)

Will it be a problem getting parts since I don't know the serial number? And anything else you can tell me would be great. Thanks!!

- Tim
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well, the only place I know to look for it is the stamped tag on the left -- oops, just saw the link, and yes that tag is definitely what's missing, that's where I meant that I was looking for it. Still can see the place where it used to be. But it's long gone.
 

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Look for the casting codes on the trans, rear axle, and engine block. The code should be something like 12-3-K. The letter is what determines the year.

Here is are a couple of code's from our 1941 H. The first pic is a K which my book say's is 1941. second pic is J which is 1940. the other # are the month and day they were cast.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Thanks, cjet69. I was unable to locate a casting code on the engine block, but on the transmission case is stamped 3-4-N. Elsewhwere (bellypump?) is 2-17-N, and on the cylinder head is 8-8-K, it's a little difficult to read the letter code but it looks like a K, possibly an N.

So, what year is "N"? I'm going to presume 1944...

Thanks again.

- Tim
 

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Thanks, cjet69. I was unable to locate a casting code on the engine block, but on the transmission case is stamped 3-4-N. Elsewhwere (bellypump?) is 2-17-N, and on the cylinder head is 8-8-K, it's a little difficult to read the letter code but it looks like a K, possibly an N.

So, what year is "N"? I'm going to presume 1944...

Thanks again.

- Tim
My book says the letter N is 1944.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Left side rear cast wheel, I didn't have pics of it when I first posted about the H.

As you can see, a chunk of iron broken off at the clamp and a crack running about 5 or 6 inches in the opposite direction on the other side of the axle. How serious is this? I think I can find another wheel easy enough if it's a problem. I know these machines can take a lot, but I don't plan on putting it through "a lot." I just don't want to be on a side hill and have this fail and --- well, wouldn't be pretty.

Pics:






And a few of the old girl (yes that's a can over the muffler, a raincap has been installed since then lol):





And where the ID plate should've been...

 

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I think it would be a good idea to get another center wheel casting. It might last 20 yrs or fail tomorrow.:dunno:

The tractor looks to be in pretty good shape. Should be a good one to restore. When you get it fixed up you'll have a bright red convertible to drive around. :ROF
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks, cjet69. I agree, I'll start looking around now for a replacement.

On another note, the rear tires are mismatched but will be fine for as long as they last. One side is 13.6-38 on 12, the other is 14.9-38 on 13.

The night after these photos were taken, some neighborhhod punks cut off one of the front valve stems, removed the mag wire and punched in one rear valve core. I've since moved the tractor from the side of the horse barn to the front where there's a mercury light on all night long. I found the wire and the tractor still runs fine. But in all the years since the late 60's when I first started hanging around tractors, I've never once had to replace a rear core! wow, lol... Anyways, presuming I can remove the old core, what size do I use? The tube is for liquid ballast although there's none in either rear, they're both dry.

Again, thanks!
- Tim
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Hello again -- new question:

I just picked up a spare belly pump with coupler, hoses, outlets, remote and a reservoir. This H had no hoses etc., just the plugs in the hydraulic elbows at the belly pump. I'll post pics another time, a little too much rain today.

I'd like to know how this whole setup goes together. The seller had no idea other than how to mount the belly pump and coupler, which I already know but don't need to do. It appears to me that the reservoir screws onto the hydraulic fill opening? And I can't tell which outlets to connect the hoses to. I'm embarrassed to admit I haven't yet picked up a manual... Anyways, input and advice greatly appreciated!

Thanks in advance,
- Tim
 
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